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German Shepherd

Getting Comfortable
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About German Shepherd

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  • Location
    Nr York, North Yorkshire
  1. Hi Arjan. Lovely picture of the dogs, mine also loves the car, albeit as yet never had the Land Rover running, so we will have to see how she likes it, as and when it is running. As for your question, the switch was in the car when I bought it about 5 years ago, however, due to lack of time I am still restoring and coming across 'challenges'. The attached photo was taken at the Le Mans Classic last year, the bloke who owns it lives somewhere south of Le Mans and brought it up for a ride out.
  2. When I bought the car, the switch was cable tied onto the steering column. Albeit, was solid enough and did fit through the cowling, until I stripped the wiring and column out to replace the bulkhead. The way the cowling is fitted, the starter switch hole is on the inside of the steering column, (RHD) but the fitting on the switch is such, that if it was fitted correctly, it would have to be bolted on to the outside of the steering column as the fitting is offset. I think it would work if you left the cowling off, or possibly if a defender cowling would fit. i have tried to photograph the fitting on the switch. Hopefully you can see the offset nature of the fitting, so to get the angle of fitting right, the switch would have to be on the right of the column. Hope that make sense, however come back if you need any more info. I am just in the middle of rebuilding my 1973 series 3, so am still coming across 'abnormalities' πŸ˜‚ Like the defender switch. Almost ready to see if she will fire up after having to take the head back off to sort out lack of compression issues. Digging and sleeping is what dogs do best πŸΆπŸ€—, oh and chasing hares, swimming in the canal and trying to climb trees to catch squirrels.
  3. Hi Gazzar. Photos attached, I hope, plus one of my main mechanic. One showing the full switch, excuse the binder twine, it was just handy to hold the switch in place. One showing the back of the switch, showing the terminals, numbered going anti clockwise. One showing the attached wires, albeit difficult to photo due to the short wires and lack of space. Hope it helps.
  4. For future info. Having looked at several forums and wiring diagrams, it looks like I have a PRC8230 defender ignition switch fitted to my series 3. The terminals on the rear of the switch are numbered 1/2/3/5 (number 2 being the double terminal) I found a link on a defender forum which gave the following wiring diagram: Terminal 1 / White and red wire from the solenoid. Terminal 2 / Brown wire from the fuse box and brown wire from the horn. Terminal 3 / White wire from the fuse box. I have wired mine up as detailed above and it seems to work fine. Hope the info helps.
  5. My 1973 series 3 petrol has what appears to be a defender ignition switch fitted. The wires I have are Thick brown from the fuse box, which looks like it incorporates the light switch, inspection socket and the headlight main/dipped beam, a Thin brown from the horn, a white/red from the solenoid and a white from the fuse box, incorporating the oil/choke/ignition lights. However I am having a problem in correctly connecting the wires to the defender switch as there does not appear to be a wiring diagram on the tinterweb. The ignition switch has three single and one double connector, and having tried a number of combinations I still cannot get the wiring right. Can anyone help with a wiring diagram. Many thanks
  6. Thanks rtbartons or your advice, I will give it a go.
  7. I have just taken the head off my 1973 S3 2.25 petrol, looking at the gasket there are, as you say, two small holes and one port blocked off, however, whilst my small holes are on the right hand side they are at the front (rad end) of the engine. i have just had another look at my head and gasket and wonder if you, or me, may have the gasket up the wrong way. πŸ˜‚
  8. Thanks for the help. I did not mention in my first post that I had previously taken the head off, removed the valves, de coked, replaced the valve seals, reground the valves in and replaced the head gasket. At that stage all seemed OK. I have taken rtbartons advice and poured some oil in the bores, albeit there does not seem to be any noticeable difference in levels, I had also done a wet compression test on number 2 cylinder and when I took the head off a day later, the oil was still in the bore which makes me think that the rings are ok. All four pistons are moving freely and nice and tight in the bores. I am thinking that I will regrind in the valves on number two cylinder, replace the head and see what happens on a fresh compression test, I can alway take it off again if I am no further forward, drop the sump and pull number two piston out. The joys of retirement!! Once again thanks for your help.
  9. As a brief introduction, I bought a 1973 S3 2.25 petrol about 5 years ago with a plan to restore when I retired, roll forward 5 years and after replacing the chassis, bulkhead, refurbishing brakes, axles etc it was time to see if she would fire up. Initially no fuel was getting from the tank to the pump, so pump was stripped, cleaned and rebuilt, with fuel now getting to the carb, however she would still not fire up. Compression test time, with 150 psi at cylinders 1/3/4 but zero at number 2 on a dry test, wet test on number 2 also giving a zero reading. Thinking it could be a valve issue, I took the head off, both inlet and exhaust valves on number 2 cylinder look ok, not sticking and seem to be seated ok. The Pistons also seem OK, no movement, no nasty noises when moving up and down and no marks in the bores. So the question is, do I regrind the valves back in on number 2, put the head back on pray it was a sticking valve and redo the compression test, or while the head is off, drop the sump and take number 2 piston out and see if there is a problem with it. Or could there be another reason why there is no compression I have not thought of. As further info, when she would not fire up and after sorting the pump issue, but prior to the compression test, I set the static timing, points and plugs gaps, and there is a good spark from the coil to the distributor and then to the plugs. It is also new petrol in the tank and I have stripped and rebuilt the carb, initially thinking it could be a sticking float or blocked jet. I did see her running before I bought her, albeit she has not been started in the last 5 years. Any thoughts, advice will be gratefully received.
  10. Being a new owner of a series 3 Land Rover, I am in need of some help please. Having recently retired i bought a 1973 swb series 3 with the intention of restoring, however when I completely stripped the old girl I found that the chassis was well gone so I bought a replacement rolling chassis which was in fair condition, however after stripping and rebuilding the engine, I have tried to refit the engine and box to the replacement chassis and found that the slave cylinder is fouling on the engine cross member so it is stopping the box going down far enough to bolt on to the mountings. From reading a number of posts on various LR sites, it looks like I have bought a series 2 chassis, which has a different engine crossmember to a series 3. So to cut a long story short, can I grind out sufficient of the crossmember to enable the slave cylinder and box to fit? Plus are there any other major differences between the series 2 and 3 chassis? Many thanks
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