Hercu

Lo-fi Good tip thanks....Although something feels awkward jiggling it with the wire...it is like a solid "clunck"...like it gets stuck on heat shield or maybe something was dropped, Nut, washer etc and got stuck between actuator arm and turbo body or heat shield....I was sitting, jiggling the turbo with my head buried in the wheel well for 2 hours this morning...after dousing it with Q20/W40 for 24 hours As said the turbo was reconditioned with the installation of the new sub 3 months ago and EGR's blanked and cat removed the vehicle only did about 2000 km and each time filled applied 2So 500 ml per tank After installing new engine..3 months ago..Replaced Tappet covers......Injectors was taken out in sito and tested..replaced...Taken out again and another refurbished set installed... Somewhere something went wrong....!! I am looking to buy a probe cam to try and see at the back of the actuator arm..(Already quoted new turbo)

New Diesel filter installed after cleaning LPFP filter/strainer All the quick fixes tried to no avail...The dreaded "Engine System Fault PO132B" is glued to the scanner Cleared and direct after start it is back...The vehicle drive well on normal acceleration but the moment more power is needed and pedal position 60% + it goes to limp.. Everything shows back to Turbo Actuator and although I can hear the stepper motor whining there is very little movement on the arm itself.. I made the wire hook and can push/pull the actuator at most 3 mm...I have seen it should move about an inch = 2 cm.. The turbo was reconditioned 3 months ago... Doused it with (Q 20/W40) for 2 days now without success... The removal of turbo and maybe replacement seems to become a reality now....??? (15 hrs in sito)

Bowie....Seems like Algae...Cleaned out and reinstalled plus new filter but the loss of power on acceleration is still there Diagnostic fault code P132B showed ...Turbo was reconditioned 2 months ago..Actuator moves freely.. Injector 3 is also not in Spec (Bit High)

Think I have found my "Gremlin"

Magnet....Truly Robbie knows his Disco's and I am "eating" up his info on the internet... Although we are worlds apart I can feel the integrity and enthusiasm of that guy on his reports and writings... Kind regards

Got a super link where the LPFP comes to question Checked the stream from the Schrader Valve and truly poor.. According to Robbie on Disco 3 UK forum should have at least 0.5 bar and the amps drawn close to 9 Amps. Will get hold of a low pressure gauge and test but my gut feel says that little stream is not even 0.1 bar

It is totally possible..And I will investigate...I changed a turbo once on my Di due to a delaminating turbo hose... Only by revving I could not see but need to take it off and inspect thoroughly..

Thank you Progress on Fault Finding or either not finding major wrongs The Split off was not corroded and there was little corrosion on pins off Module Cleaned with Electrical cleaner Battery is new and Alternator Charges on 14.7 volt Still awaiting Brake light switch as final hope to solve this issue Next Report what have been done Received Brake switch and Installed Had bonnet open warning ....... installed new bonnet switch Coolant level low warning........ Got new expansion tank with sensor and installed Checked all bulbs and seems to be original...no black recidue or any sighn of poor contact But still I get the bong..."Special programs Off" and total loss of power if accelerating hard I can at that speed (120 km/h) go to Neutral without switching ignition off/on allow 5 seconds and the engine will rev up normally...and I can continue driving normally Slow ecceleration does not cause the vehicle to cut power..Just when I put my foot down Tried on speed control+++++ (from set 100 Kph ++++++++and somewhere 130 Kph it cuts power)..means it is not the eccelerator pedal switch/sensor ???? Now awaiting proper Diognostic scanner and hopefully can fine this "ghost"

Magnet.... Totally accepted that I need a "Mind Change" IID tool is ordered and eagerly awaiting delivery...and enjoy the vehicle for what it is....Excellent and fixable with the right tools I was/am spoiled by the simplicity and reliability of the 300 TDi Disco 1 with now 400 000 Km on the clock...Whenever stuck next to the road the tools to fix was a normal set of tools and screwdrivers..Either Fan belt..Water hoses or diesel filter could be fixed in a jiff.. Totally new experience to drive in comfort and then the dreadful "Bong" " Special programs off" and limp to the side of the road just to recycle the key and good to go again.. As a 1958 model myself that kind of technology is hard to get under the belt...Opening the Bonnet with that plastic covers covering the whole engine bay is frightening at first... but I need to adapt or Die...Like the Dinosaurs... Yes..There is excellent support and that is also my reason for buying a D3 TDV 6 as upgrade

My 300 TD1 Disco1 is called old Faithful for a reason...It is fixable and reliable.... The D3 is a different cup of tea..Excellent vehicle but so electricaland as advised above "make good friends with someone with a diagnostic reader.".. I mean...it go in limp when a brake light globe does not make good contact...! I love my D3 when it runs...super strong..good 4 x 4 in the sand ..comfortable ...soft ride...But you did not make a bad statement by typing "D£" The D3 really needs a lot of good maintenance ...and parts are fairly expensive.... What I have read on the D2.... it is bullet proof and really runs well ..Excellent 4 x 4 My D1 is rusting off its chassis..and all the TD5's (D2) I looked at had rust in hidden places...and I bought a D3 Beauty and the beast

Thank you once again Found the splice in good shape with no corrosion....resealed Opened the module connections and slight green corrosion on pinns ....cleaned with Electro clean and refitted Now just awaiting new brake switch to see if problem solved... Started but after a while showed "Engine System Fault" again Did not yet take it for test drive Alternator charges at 14.9 volts... Find some wires removed on connecter as per pic...Don't know for what it was originally (Red Circle) Also found the carpet to be wet and will fix the sunroof drip off...whilst open

Reb 78 Thank you Brake switch ordered and really hope it will solve this irritating problem Magnet 6 x 6 Totally possible and worth a check Thank you so much.

I have a 2006 Disco 3 TDV 6 2.7 S and most recently I received an 'Engine System Fault'. What I have noticed is that when I press the accelerator pedal to a point where the vehicle changes down to lower gear, then the car shows 'Special programs off' and goes like into limp mode and there is no acceleration after it reaches this point. I then switch the vehicle off and after a half a minute I restart, the vehicle has gone out of limp mode and I can move on again. I can even sit it to Idle half a minute and can pull off with full power again but the moment I floor it the same symptoms appear and hearing kind of whistle New Sub +/- 2000 km New Battery…Recon Turbo…Refurbished injectors Cleaned MAP and MAF sensors EGR blanked and butterfly removed. Checked for split turbo hose and Actuator is moving freely Show “coolant level low” and awaiting new container with float sensor Changed oil on 1000 km, new filters Air/diesel/ Oil Auto box new filter and filled Dexron 6 and Dr Tranny Could it be Oxygen sensors ???

A-RO 95 I am one of the ones battling to get a TDV 6 alive again and although mine is a 2.7 in the same category as 3.0 Diesel ....once broken it cost an arm and a leg to fix The consumption on the V 6 Diesel is not much better than the V 8 petrol but as far as i know the V 8 beats the V 6 by 1000% comes to reliability Engine failure is never heard of where the breakers is full of V6 diesels breaking for parts in South Africa..Just check Gumtree.co.za for Discovery 3/4 breaking for spares The V 8 is a very heavy but truly nice truck with all the power you need and can be used to its full capability on your beautiful Autobahn's My personal opinion... if I ever change it will be a V8 Petrol

Thank you, Yes the difficult one to remove, underneath the loom... No 1 is a fraction out according to the test and certainly a good round Injector cleaner should do the job..Thank you

The Disco is up and alive and the knocking sound was a hydraulic lifter and replaced all on the one bank Now the disco is over fueling madly and had the Injectors tested but with my limited knowledge I do not know what the report says Must I replace only no 1 Injector/ is that the problem ? The other 5 seems to have passed all tests.... is it Good...OK...Fair or Bad and on the border line ??? CRB_282018_1113_31454 NO_ 1.pdf CRB_282018_1129_31242 NO_ 2.pdf CRB_282018_1147_31436 NO_ 3.pdf CRB_282018_1159_31581 NO_ 4.pdf CRB_282018_1211_31456 NO_ 5.pdf CRB_282018_1222_31438 NO_ 6.pdf

Sabre I opted to install the defender element air cleaner on my snorkel and belief I am getting super filtration. Yes it demanded a few mods like moving the window washer water bottle but I am very Happy.

The 2.7 TDV 6 Disco 3 with new sub and recon heads started and on revving there is a serious knock lik piston hitting the valve Could it actually be a valve hitting the piston or maybe a lazy hydraulic lifter, Injector (Diesel) knock ???? The smoking is from cracked return coupling and was fixed but the problem remained TDV 6 2.7 above 2000 RPM.mp4

Updated progress report.....and it is a wall.... Quoted "millions" of engineering works, proclaimed engine rebuilders and genuine Land Rover Sub importers.... The painful outcome is whatever road will be taken it is over valuing this vehicle totally......and worst of all it does not lift the resale value by 1 penny...It even brings the value down because the next buyer will not believe that the "new" engine is done to last...To much fly by nights... I have been warned not to rebuild this engine but rather buy a new Sub...or Long Block... On current exchange rate a new long block sub is a mighty £6285-00 Short block new Sub..£3885-00 Where to from here? I am not certain yet but for now the project is a bit on ice.....!

Elbekko...Rest is fine...actually the vehicle is in a very good condition This vehicle had the famous Disco 3 TDV 6 water manifold parting syndrome one the most inappropriate time...and in the Natal midlands there is tidal rivers and I think this happened on the high tide and salty water was collected just to keep going... It eventually seized and was left standing for almost 4 months And I was the "lucky" one to buy it

EJ......If you haven't fixed this yet try force/Reverse bleeding Open bleeding nipple on slave use a tube with exact fit over nipple and force brake fluid from bottom upwards.. Was the only way to bleed my Disco 1 300 TDi

Lo-fi / Garry Good advice ..Thank you Yes, truly shocking and a "'complete mess" seems to have sea/ salt water in it ??? The crank yes, best to get a new one but a new crank on its own is £ 2020 where a complete Remanufactured sub is £ 3344 , doubt if I can get all the other parts needed for £ 1324 Will definitely need new pistons and rings..maybe conrods...Bearings main and big end, water pump, oil pump..Valves.. Certainly the Reman sub is the best option although the bank manager Will keep you informed and updated

Posted previous before completion...Continued... A complete used engine in South Africa is ZAR R 80 000 € 5095 £ 4613 $ 6430 over 150 000 Km Remanufactured with OEM parts and line bored ZAR R 58 000 € 3694 £ 3344 $ 4662 1 year guarantee Rebuild Subs comes with timing gear where Remanufactured doesn't / all is new oil pump fitted Not a huge difference in price between Rebuilds and Reman's Recon is fairly cheaper but the risk is so much higher Apparently the 2005 and 2006 models is recon/ rebuilded with a fair amount of success Goods news is that the Injectors was tested and certified fit Turbo refurbished and certified...Still need to test the VHPF... But the engineering works are still battling to get pistons out of the block...??

One and Half months later and I am still between walls The engine is opened and a disaster...all rusted and pistons stuck in the block..Got the injectors out and the Turbo is also rusted Crank damaged and need to be ground if rebuild myself

Filip Have you "played" around with the Android setting or checked the Diaphragm for leaks Mark the direction how you remove it/ on the deepest it will give you a full movement of the pin.. Put grease/Vaseline on the conical and rev up and after opening again you will see how far it travelled