missingsid

If that's what you puck up on the comment then a four letter word starting t and ending in t springs to mind. But carry on. I'm sure you have plenty more useful ranting left.

My comment was that someone less 'skilled' than you asked for help, as mixing together the suggestions could kill, it needs to be explained clearly. I dont do it because i am a stoopid scaredy cat who likes staying alive and having regularly used a highlift's instability to move a LR sideways I know how they love to tip over. Tieing the handle does nothing to stop that.

Supporting the vehicle with what? This sounds frighteningly dangerous to me with the limited details!

With the engine off does the pedal return to normal feel and height when pushed down? On a servo assist car if you press the brake pedal and hold it during starting the engine the pedal will always drop further. If you stop the engine the pedal should IIRC push back at your foot as you are making all the effort needed. How much travel do you have before the pedal goes hard under foot with no servo assist, maybe just too much play?

Obviously I'm not engineer as you will see from my comment but. I get the "it must have 1.5 threads out the end of every nut'" bit but here the nut is oversize to enable double ended nuts. If you make a nut a foot longer than std having thread out the end makes it no safer! Check how much thread is engaged, if it is the correct amount I personally wouldn't care about the gap. And didn't on my Series with those nuts and std wheels. If it does bother you then grind one down to std size for single sided nuts and see how it fits? If it not enough then take action. When I first got my Series I lost 2 out of 5 of the nuts on one wheel at 80mph they were single sided and had nothing to do with how much thread was out of the end of the nut. It is fair though that the last 3 nuts were also loose so a longer thread kept them on until I stopped but it would have been the same if it happened when I used replacement double nuts later when I replaced all my studs for knock in as the 2 that left went off with the studs not by the nuts unscrewing.

I don't know if there are different sizes of rubber bush but I had items from different makers which are slightly different sizes. Some would not compress enough as the beveled side was a steeper angle?

Thats what I did on mine recently. Much easier when you forget something and have to remove them again!!

I've had mine longer so I don't want to lose it, eventually (maybe in my time line maybe not) it will not be usable in its present format, for that reason I would consider EV if practicable.

To do anything on a D3 you are going to need a code reader/programmer circa £450 new, they will program keys aswell as all the ECUs etc without you are just guessing.

Love an SVR not for the speed just the sound!

When I put 90 calipers on my RRC axle there is definitely a difference in bolt dia, with imperial bolts the caliper would rattle when loose, test fitted with tube shims to ensure bolt spacing was OK, then helicoiled to match new 90 bolts and all is good.

Can you put the bushes in the freezer for a few days or will it damage the rubber or warm up to quickly to be helpfull? You have my sympathy as I did mine so long ago but I still dispise them! I have a spare set of LR ones in my spares box still wrapped in oiled paper and every time I see them I glare at them with hatred.

In that case enjoy the music of the engine.

Given what you say about usability and 2 x speed limit I guess your not going to have a license very long! You only live once but for less time! Don't get me wrong I used to have an M5, but when I found myself joining motorways at 120 I realised that performance only usable at high speed is insane and exceedingly dangerous.

Regardless of the quality and engineering they have bestowed on it, sorry I just see Chinese knock off. It really disappoints me that they have done that, they have the chance to be the UKs best sector product maybe even more, time will tell.

Pumps are service items and could have been changed at any time of its life. An AC pump is period correct I would think. If this is of importance to you then it is easy to inspect, it is either going to have excessive wear on the lever face, wear on the lever fulcrum pin or a diaphragm leak. The other thing is it could be the filter. If you can find replacement parts then rebuild and refit. Land Rovers are like Trigger's broom, totally original, it's had 3 new handles and 2 new heads. But I can see that it is nice to see one that is period correct with matching patina.

Great job can't wait to see final vehicle.

One year for me but with a nine year old I'll be working for another ten to fifteen!

Yup, that's what I have and how I do it. Out on the road or off it if I find a problem that needs fixing it can be done with grips as the tightness is not high. I have seen Series motors where they used a punch and butchered the nuts, but using a flat faced punch you dont need that much effort!

Behind the fun but worryingly true comments re people stereotypes there are good facts here. Sometimes it is easy to get sucked into the 'LR cars are rubbish and need everything changing" view which is only true in the ultra rally class but perpetuated by the accessory parts sellers who not surprisingly want to sell the stuff! When I started off reading and still now, the first thing I learnt is how much more capable a std LR is than ME! The other truth as said above is that a good driver is always a boring one unless you like as I do, watching someone "clear" a section well.

Soldering stations are expensive due to the accuracy required by the electronics industry. Truthfully this is a level never seen during the manufacture of vintage audio equipment which in my experience is massive blobs of lead on copper tabs the si,e of a washer. Do you really need a station? Personally I would buy a good quality stand alone soldering iron and stand, much cheaper, more comfortable and far less bulky. I'm not trying to be condescending as there are far cleverer people on this site than me, however a soldering station isn't a desk tidy with everything in one place which is how they are sold in the hobby use sector, it was created to meet exacting industry standards for electronics manufacture where staff stay static all day. To qualfy my comment, I worked as a Prototype Wireman in R&D in the military communications industry, the quality of my work was such that QA stopped inspecting my work and and only came to me to ask for advice on others. During that time I never even saw a soldering station in my department. For the work I did it was far better using a light weight soldering iron all day.

Probably not, surely the same part as it is the correct one for the purpose it does.

Down here it is suicidal horses, my mate has lost two cars with horses running across the road from nowhere and sitting on his bonnet and windscreen.

Another vote for Weller, I've got a Lidl station at the moment, utter carp. Most cheap irons eat their own bits rather than melt solder as they are just made of copper or other brown metal. I have a 40 year old Weller iron which is brill but I can't find bits for it now. As for chisel or pin, as an electronics lab tech I always used pin or pin with a diagonal flat on the end at most but old audio kit (and electric guitars even now) have huge solder tabs and globs of stinky solder!

Are yes. Thanks. Maybe the reply to my comment was also made by phone? As otherwise it does not make sense.