gripper

if you don't have a gauge just mark a line between the block and 1 of the 6 points on a bolt head as each point is 60 degrees. as you turn it so the next point lines up with the line on the head then you know it's correct plus you can see if you forget which you've done.

my mates one in his 200 is a plate of ally chequerplate and is held in with rivnuts and passes mot no problem.

welcome paul, still haven't filled in hometown yet though.

the doughnut is only fitted to the 300tdi and not to the 200tdi so you wont't have that problem, the doughnut is fitted in place of a uj on the rear or the rear propshaft the 200 has a normal uj so no problems with it, many people change them for a 200 prop and diff flange to get rid of the rubbish thing. i have a prop and flange to fit but can't be bothered at the moment, some day i will, probably when the doughnut fails.

veg and bio tends to clean the fuel system out so it should be cleaner than with just diesel

yes you can, you need a live to the switch and an earth to the switch, 2 wires from the switch to the motor in the door, you'd need to look up the wiring diagram from an early discovery but it's easy enough, i did it on my last 200 no problem at all.

so does my 98 300tdi, 1 line to each front and 1 line to rear which splits in a T piece to each side.

mine had loads of play and went through lots of oil too, it also had white smoke when the turbo kicked in when it was cold, had to replace it.

have the 2 plugs got a release catch on them? it may have broken on one allowing it to come out without the catch being pushed in, they can be awkward to push so use a screwdriver if you can reach it.

cheers, i'll take a look at their site.

the ones on the front of my 300 are wipacs too but they do fit on the bumper however it is very tight to get to the bolts underneath so a bar is a good idea, axlechorus i notice you have no grilles on yours either, have you lost them or just removed them as 1 of mine fell off and i'm looking for another, if you have 1 spare would you be willing to sell it?

the white/red wire from the ignition switch is the start position, tap a wire into this and run it to the starter solonoid, then find a switched positive wire and tap into it to run it to the stop solenoid on the fuel injector pump. that will bypass both functions of the immobiliser, that's what i have done on mine and it all works fine.

i prefer round on the bumper, square on a light bar above the screen but it's each to their own, whatever you prefer the look of. can't beat a big pair on the front, 8" is a good size. my old 200 tdi round 8" on front square on bar above screen my current 300 tdi again round 8" on front with a couple of small round ones on roof rack so you can see both ideas

just what i was going to suggest, would be far easier and you can get whatever spots you fancy plus the wiring is already there although you may need to lengthen the wires a bit.

if you disconnect the wiring on the back of the alternator (insulate it when you do) then try the meter in line again to see if the current drain has stopped and the charge light has gone out, try starting the engine (with the battery charged) if it stays out then it would definately point at the alternator, then leave it overnight to see if the battery holds it's charge, if that solves all your mentioned problems then either fix the regulator/rectifier/diode pack or replace the alternator.