landrover130

I bought a two post lift after much thought re 2 or 4 post,I have never lifted a vehicle more than 2 feet off the ground yet as I find it easier to use a creeper to work underneath or sit on a chair to work on brakes etc. knees ache when standing so this works great for me.

Does anyone have the size of the output shaft, I measured it at 37.26mm with it still on the vehicle and not easy to get the callipers in. Thanks Richard

I had looked at baseless for the gearbox removal as you say, but although I have a good size shed it doesn’t have enough height. I’ve worked out it should be possible to remove a gearbox with the base plate not causing too much trouble, if I’ve got my measurements correct.

So after starting this thread over two years ago I have finally bit the bullet and ordered a two post lift, even though I originally said I would prefer a four post. Two days on my knees doing ball joints on Discovery td5 persuaded me I was too near pension age to repeat that scenario with the other side. The knees are perhaps worse than the ball joints were, I’ve gone with a 5.5 tonne one from Garage Equipment Online after researching nearly every manufacturer available. The problem now is where to put it so as not to loose too much shed space.

Thanks for that I will see if any of the suppliers could do one converted allready as where I live could be a problem getting a suitable electrician to come out at a reasonable cost.

Unless I can find a single phase I will have to researh a phase converter.

Just found one on ebay D and H equipment £1600, only problem for me is a lot are three phase.

I have decided to go for a four post once my Discovery gets a new gearbox so I can collect. If you look on ebay a few buisnesses advertise lifts with new cables one even had a test certificate. I am intending to go for a Bradbury four ton with wheel free bars and a jack.

Never thought about securing body to roof of building, Woul it be safe to lift a body with something through windows, I am thinking 110,Discovery 2, P38?, or would door tops crush.

Thanks for all the input, last night I was all set on a two post, after reading todays posts I am just not sure. I am lucky to have a loadall that I could lift a body off with, if it would work. It does concern me about the vehicle being up in the air mounted on a central point, then is my concrete up to it, I laid it and know its 6 inch thick but the 2 post does not have a big footprint on the floor. They both have their own advantages, I will just have to make my mind up.

Any recomendations as to manufacturer of two post, been trawling net and you can go from £1100 to £5000, I will avoid the cheaper ones I think, but most seem to conform to CE regs. Makes such as Peak Dama and Werther seem to be ok, I supose its a case of speaking to a few suppliers to question them. I like the Peak A255 but suppose they are all very similar, are symetrical arms better than others.

Well everything certanly points to a two post being easier to use for access etc, I put the floor down myself so I know its 6 inch thick , but I will go for one with the supports for extra safety. I might wait to replace gearbox once I have the lift, not even ordered gearbox yet so no rush.

I am in the process of changing a P38 diesel tank on the floor and that is no fun at all, I also have a gearbox to swap in a Discovery TD5, two jobs that would go a lot easier with the vehicle in the air. The two post does give better access, the only problem being the P38 does not like its axles hanging down, a strap to keep them from droping would work. I think a two post is the way to go and will have a search for one.

High, I am thinking to get a lift as scrabling about on the floor becomes harder with age, I like the fact that a two post can be used to remove a body complete but wonder if a four post is safer with the land rover six feet in the air, am I being silly?, as they will be designed to be safe. Both types have good and bad points.

No reply from North Off Road, and decided in the end to by an 88 inch tomcat to AlRC spec, a lot cheaper than starting to build or modify my 90, and V8 instead of TD5. Going to get 90 through test and sell, now to join ALRC club in scotland and ut looking forwards to it.bget some competition experiance, I live in Orkney so got a long way to travel. Thanks for replies.

Contacted NOR by facebook no reply as yet but allready decided to get 90 sorted for mot, not been tested for 5 years and sell to fund something allready built. Thanks for replies, Richard.

Thats correct Comp Safari and maybe ccvt, built to ALRC spec wouid seem to give a broader scope. As I see it its either ALRC or AWDC events in Scotland, and ALRC is the one I would go for as a novice. I tried contacting North Off Road bu tweb site not working,I think the best thing would be to sell my 90 and buy something allready built and give it a try.

Hi, I have a 90 with a North Off Road external cage, this mounts to the side of the chassis, which as I see it, it will not be allowed at ALRC events, comp safari / ccvt. My options are to modify the mounts to make them attach to the top of chassis, or sell the landy and get one that will be suitable for ALRC events.Bearing in mind I live on an Island of the north of scotland so would not be competing on a regular basis, due to cost involved of travel, but its something I want to do. As its safety I dont want to compromise, so maybe the best thing would be to sell the 90 on and get something more suited to off road competition rules. Thanks Richard.

My tool / equipment store is 15x 9 feet and insulated with 2 inch kingspan, I dont think it will take a lot to heat but not sure what sort of temp it would need to be to prevent condensation. It really annoys me to think the tools I fetched here 12 years ago are mostly rusted, not beyond use but not as I would like them. Its only one side of the tools, that is the side facing upwards, and its funny but some spanners that are 40 years old have not rusted must be down to better steel.

I have debated for a long time heater versus dehumidifier, and come to the conclusion that an oil filled radiator would be the best for me. Living 1/2 mile from the sea, in strong westerly gales we get salt spray on house windows and the sea spray that goes with it. I feel I would be trying to dehumidify Orkney not just my workshop, things are that bad with condensation/damp that I have built a tool / equipment store that is heated by the oil rad inside my workshop.

Not wanting a sports car just a land rover that will tow up to its legal limit without worrying about overheating and be able to make good progress up some quite steep inclines.

tacr2man, it was reading your posts about M57 into 110 csw that made me think about fitting one In P38, the upside Is that I have two P38 to play with the downside being the vehicle electrics. I also have two 110 csw but they both need a complete re build, so not a quick job. I might have to sell both csw and buy a running 110 to do a conversion on.

Never thought about a puma engined 110, originally I was going to fit a M57 engine into a P38 to improve on the M51 engine and give more passenger comfort. The wider back doors are easier for my son to get in and out of. My thoughts on a 110 based vehicle Is to not have an overly complicated electronic vehicle.

As the title says which of the two would be most reliable/capable of towing up to the limit of 3.5 tons (land rover on trailer) this will be in a 110.This will may be three or four times a year, on a journey of maybe 400/500 miles, can both engines be improved to gain more torque to make towing easier. I know i could fit a variable turbo and inter cooler to a 300 and map and inter cool the td 5, has anyone got experience of using both engines in similar situations?.