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Tony Jones

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    Northern Ireland

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  • Interests
    Classic Cars - Jaguars + Daimlers especially.<br /><br />Obviously Land Rovers.<br /><br />Modifying.<br /><br />Muscle Cars.

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  1. Could you ask your mate please what sort of money are you talking about for a 4.6 engine then and how much for shipping to Northern Ireland? Cheers for this + the link. B)
  2. Cheers Nige once again for the additional info and help. B) Most of the last I knew with the exception of the Valvoline oil - cheers for the tips B) For some reason i'm having trouble getting hold of a 3.9 block, you see over here the Tdi'd are the most popular choice of engine, not many people run them. If I can eventually get a 3.9 block for cheaper than a set of top hat liners + the cost of the machine work to fit them then i'll use one otherwise i'll just have to use the AE block I have which is meant to be better (of the 3.5's) to use as a competition block or so, it says in david Hardcastle's book. Anyhow the search will continue. Cams wise I was looking at Real Steel, at their Viper Stump Puller Cam making it's power in the 1500-5500 rpm bracket. This motor is going into a lightweight which is just a tarted up street machine, not a serious offroader but the idea is to keep smart with the mods and squeeze as much power out of her that the R380 box will take so as not to make her unreliable. She will be running no more than 33" tyres on all terrain tyres., and keeping either the 4.75:1 CW ratio or maybe going up to 4.11:1, not sure which yet. I thought this the best all round cam to give a bit of extra oomph without making it too "cammy" if there is such a word. Is this a good choice of cam do you reckon or should I got for something with longer legs?
  3. Just been reading that thread(4 out of 26 pages that is), the A-Z of megasquirting - that's some serious peice of work, amazingly detailed too. Shame i've got to go back to work. It makes excellent reading superbly informative. B) B) B)
  4. Thanks for the info. As to what i'm trying to do well i'll try my best to explain: I want to build a nice V8 that will give bags of torque and power all the way through the rev range. I have a 3.5 block in the garage. Want to rebuild it to a larger capacity. I had a 71mm stroke crank and was going to just overbore, reliner and make a 3.9 out of it. I bought a set of stage 2 heads from e-bay. Wasn't sure what carburation/fuel syetem I should go for so I asked the professionals here as I want to build a very capable engine but for the least (reasonably) possible. I started asking about the EFI system as I have seen lots of references to megasquirting V8's and high performance V8's in general. You answered my question about the single plenum as it is therefore more than man enough for my needs with a high torque engine and from the sounds of things, simpler too Perhaps I should have asked straight but I like to know why too that's how one learns. You guys have done all this before, this is all virgin territiory to me mate. Forgive me but I have enough common sense at least to ask those in the know, albeit sometimes in a roundabout way I'll look up the threads you suggested too, the more info the better. Cheers again. B)
  5. You are right of course, they are very much plentiful so 4 barrel carb set ups would be as expensive if not slightly more so. It would seem rather daft to bolt on carbs after going to all that effort to get extra power and torque. Optimum EFI set ups though, i've seen bored out 45mm inlet manifolds, shorter carbon trumpets, 71mm throttle plates used single plenums (twin are pretty rare I believe). I also understand if you "megasquirt" it you can delete the airflow meter. I have a few more questions about the EFI set up: Wasted spark would necessitate using coilpack, fair enough, would a pair of ones from the Zetec silver/black top suffiecient or do I need a specific 8 cylinder one? If I went distributor less on my 3.5 small bearing block then how would I resolve the oil pump problem as the pump is driven from the distributor or would I just remove the electrics, physically leave the mechanics of the Dizzy there and disconnect all the electrics, would that work? Could I just fit a set of OE 4.6 injectors to the 3.5/3.9 EFI inlet manifold to meet the correct fueling requirements and will these be man enough for a 4.6 block, Viper stump puller cam, stage 2 heads + the aforementioned EFI tweaks? Lastly, I heard there were some more twin plenum casting made, so how rare are they and in the unlikely event one did come up then what would they typically go for?
  6. Cheers for the replies guys. Well first it looks like I got the wrong end of the stick, I was under the false impression that the 4.6 heads were of a significantly lower compression. I'm glad they're not which means I can just go ahead and build her up as normal. As far as the block goes I thought i'd fit the ARP stud kit, line bore the block to the bigger journal size, fit the ARP head stud kit for added protection and run the whole thing with a Viper Stump Puller Cam, my stage 2 3.5 heads and as for the top end well ........... I don't have an EFI set up any more as I somewhat stupidly scrapped it a few weeks back So, I may have to go Carb fed, either dual 2" SU's on a matched manifold or the usual 4 barrel set up. Cheers for the link Quagmire. Will check that out too at work tonight. Got to get ready now though. B)
  7. Cheers mate for the help. I have a problem (Yeah, no doubt I hear you all cry!! ) I have a 4.6 large journal crank which will be getting fitted into a suitably modified 3.5 block. Yep, i'll have to have it line-bored and new liners installed ....... but I have a set of Stage 2 Heads (Ex 3.5) that will also be fitted. Now, the 4.6 block and std (28cc) heads give a compression ratio of about 9.35:1 which is reasonable for a high torque cam engine but with the 3.5 heads the CR is going to be significantly lower. Ideally i'm looking for a CR of high 9's with the 3.5 heads. The only way I see of that being possible is to fit non OE pistons and if necessary conrods to raise the CR to decent levels. I thought also at the same time if I could increase the bore to approx 96mm which I understand is the accepted safe limit of the liners then I could squeeze 4.8 litres out of it and with a decent CR. My question therefore is does anyone have any idea what is the best piston + or conrod combination to use with a 4.6 crank to reasonably achieve this?
  8. Hi all, Sorry for yet another seemingly daft question but here goes: On the 4.6 litre crankshaft are the con rod large end the same bore as on the 3.5-3.9 conrod large end or are they different? What is the bore to bore length of the 4.6 conrod please? Cheers again, Tony. B)
  9. Sorry, I don't want to look like i'm hijacking any thread but RPR, is you're machine (325x65x15's) fitted with leaf sprung axles, with such wide section tyres did you not have problems with fouling anything steering from lock to lock?
  10. I saw the posts. That was some amount of work you did, well engineered. You said i'd have steering linkage problems, i'm fitting a PAS system from a RRC (4 bolt) at the same time so what linkage problems are you talking about mate? Is it just the tir rod or are there more nightmares to look forward to? This is for my Airportable. I would like to use her a lot more on the road but my major dislike is the brakes and lack of half way decent power. The suspension etc doesn't phase me. The power is easy enough but it's the brakes or lack there of that I really hate.
  11. I had also heard that the LED bulbs didn't tend to like the shock of Series suspension and especially off road work. Tbh I can't remember the sidelight sixe, only that they're 5W, will have to get back to you on that one. The rest are P21W for Fogs, Reverse, UK Indicators, P21/5W for Brake and Tail. Excuse me for asking but why would you need a relay on the turn signals/ indicators? How does that stop it from flashing too quicly if they're already 12V bulbs you're using?
  12. Cheers guys, like you said they are very expensive and in my mind could be made better. I took Gazzar's advice and looked at the archive and there's alot of very detailed accounts of custom brake set ups which look to have been made much better than commercially available kit and more upgradable with available HD pads and disks. I do want something that works better and is built to be more than up to the job and I am a bit of a tightfisted sort so want to do it for the least amount possible. This is something i'll have to look long and hard at.
  13. That's exactly why I asked, I wanted to know if they were either similar or one could be adapted to fit the defender/disco/RRC entire swivel assemblies. I take it that they can't be adapted then? Unfortunately I haven't got any colier parts here to look so I thought i'd ask the guys who'd know. Meccano, I was actually talking about the entire assembly; basically i'd just leave the axle casings and diffs in the axles and use the rest if you follow me. Gazzar, thanks. I'll look give a little search and see. Cheers.
  14. Thanks again. Sorry for the delay in answering been working silly shifts at work. Forgetting where home is at the moment.
  15. Hi guys, I was wondering whether the front stub axle assemblies from either a defender, RRC or Disco 1 could be retrofitted into a Series front axle to enable an easier disc brake fitting. Logically, the halfshafts would be wrong but could the series type be fitted or adapted to fit?
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