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Everything posted by Tim2809

  1. Bearmach have agreed to send replacements. They arrived today and I thought great I can change them tomorrow as day off. Opened bag and there is 1 Bush.......
  2. No not a problem I have seen bushes fitted with lump hammers and then wonder why they split. The radius arms are 1 of the few you can tighten up unloaded as they don't twist as the 2 bushes hold the axle in the same place. I do tighten the big nut on the back fully once weight is on and settled. It's frustrating as I avoid blue bag products for this reason and never had a issue with bearmach products in the past. This time of year my working week gets longer so dont have much time to keep replacing things for no reason
  3. Awaiting reply from bearmach but looking at genuine they are £25 each. At that price it's cheaper to go superpro. Believe metalastik are genuine. I suppose if they last another 30 years £100 is not much money but realistically it will be sold on in a couple of years
  4. That's odd as my mate has a recently released 1996 wolf and that's running a salisbury axle which is why I thought they were salisbury at that age. Thought the p38 was from about 2001. More new info to put in the memory bin. Everyday a school day.
  5. Ftc4996 from bearmach is £34
  6. Ftc4996 from bearmach is £25
  7. Can't see them being anything other than normal salisbury axles in a wolf
  8. Will contact them and see what they say, was fitted with a press and correct spacer so as to push them in on the outer edge and not pushing against the rubber. Been fitting bushes for over 25 years but never fitted bearmach always been genuine l/r. Just wondered if anyone else had issues and if they have gone down hill to britpart standards
  9. I fitted a set of bearmach narrow radius arm bushes to my 110. Within 4 months the bonding has given up so obviously as good quality as britpart. I'm thinking of either genuine bushes but they are probably overpriced blue bags now or a set of poly bushes. What are peoples recommendations please.
  10. Running ebc green stuff When I fitted ferrodo all the pistons were free and easy to push back but they never had the bite or ability to stop as I expected. I always ran mintex til they changed compound and then squeal. As for wear I'm expecting 6 months from them due to Miles I do but £25 every 6 months is worth having brakes that work
  11. Agreed. Also if owner drives it In "c" then stops and brings it back to "L" they should notice speed difference especially in 1st gear. I think over to the right and rearward is 2wd high. Towards left and reward 4wd high. Into c is 4wd low and pm is neutral for running pto driven equipment
  12. Also believe you can buy that plate separately from electric winch shop or Goodwinch could probably help aswell
  13. Yes they are needed to stop the tops being splayed apart and gears running out of alignment. As for repair I wonder if an engineering place could weld and re drill it
  14. Wash springs off and see if there's any coloured paint on the coils which indicate what springs they are. As for the rims Alot of sites say 235 max for 6.5j rim but Alot fit 265 happily. Think 305 will be pushing it too far.
  15. Quick update. As time is short at the moment I fitted 2 new cheap calipers with intension of rebuilding mine. Fitted new ebc pads as my original ferrodo were worn at angles which proves my theory of pistons partially seized. Result is a sore head as I dabbed the brakes when moving up the drive and nutting the steering wheel. I've suffered poor brakes and just put down to an old vehicle, can't believe the difference even before New pads settled in and a trailer with 2.6t on the back.
  16. What about inside on the wheel box https://www.raptor4x4.co.uk/raptor-4x4-internal-wheel-carrier-land-rover-defender-90-110-130.html
  17. I fitted a recon r380 from beaumont gearboxes in Halifax. Was cheaper than ashcroft but more importantly had them in stock waiting to go. Ashcroft was 8 week lead time
  18. That's even better news as I put a nos master on it earlier in the year.
  19. Cheers that's the numbers I came up with. Next project will be fitting rear disc to rear axle and presuming I have to change the master and servo to a 300tdi
  20. Sounds like engine was stood a while and valve not seated correctly. After getting it to run it freed off.
  21. That's good to know, as the part numbers change through out the years I was unsure. Might refurb mine with stainless pistons then if they are all the same
  22. That's interesting as its a landrover 300tdi rebuild manual that states 68mm. In pic it does look like the 300 is about 55mm
  23. My data states 68mm too. 20mm shrink is probably to be expected after min of 20 years use. I would be getting a new spring and plunger to be safe.
  24. Got a 1989 110 originally a 2.5td running original narrow arm solid dis. Axle. Looking at replacing front callipers believe 1 of the part numbers is Rtc5573 Have changed front discs and pads with ferodo pads, rear mintex shoes and Delphi cylinders. New master cylinder and servo tested and works well but when towing the brakes are poor. The front caliper pistons were not as easy as I would of liked when pushing back in My question is, Is there a more modern/better caliper from a newer model that's a direct fit before ordering a new pair. I want to eventually fit discs the the rear salisbury axle but want to sort front axle first. Thanks in advance
  25. Tim2809


    Sorry it slipped my mind. Just had a look and where I had an issue with previous owners wiring burning out when I remade the loom I taped it up so cannot see colours easy. The cables each side of plug are the same so we can work out off wiring diagram what colour does what.
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