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Everything posted by Tim2809

  1. If over adjusted it won't allow anymore fluid into the master cylinder with pedal up so can restrict fluid going through to the slave. Also has it still got the slave cylinder spacer fitted between it and the gearbox. Later replacement slaves don't need it
  2. Bearmach are selling bulkheads with "may need modification" to fit and not oem so probably the same ones So who do people use for replacement bulkheads?
  3. Just an update for those who offered help, compressor was on its last legs so replaced and both front arm bushes were changed as we're so worn it had bent both front shock shafts which is why it would not alter its height.
  4. Yes. I usually apply to sump then clean block and a cuppa. Even tried the vag sump sealant thank sticks like mad. Came to the conclusion the sump was slightly distorted and was soft around bolts.
  5. Would not worry about them being longer. I would want to make sure from the point to the beginning of the thread is the same length.
  6. Not leaked in over 12 months yet, what I did find with rtv was sump is soft around the bolts so can push the rtv out so had minimal around bolts which is why I tapped the high spots down and tried a gasket
  7. There is a gasket available that fits the 300tdi sump on ebay
  8. Cheers garry for advice, suspension will stay up for weeks if left stood so don't think there's any leaks. It's booked in with local specialist so their headache now.
  9. Further checks it appears front shocks are not working, air compressor is over heating if lowered and then put in high and now won't go down on the front says extended suspension move from obsticle and retry.
  10. It's able to go through full range of height settings. The back is smooth to ride in but the front feels like if it was old school the shocks are not working. No diagnostics yet as garage can't touch it for 2 weeks
  11. My bosses 2011 rrs tdv6 seems to be very bouncy on front end. Is there any self calibration that can be done or are the air bag/shock combos a common failure at £600 each. Any help appreciated
  12. I also have clutch fix HD clutch. Pedal is lighter than standard. Its in a 300tdi but with earlier clutch pedal so has return spring rather than the helper spring.
  13. That's not the water pump. It's the viscous fan mounted on idler. Only available with replacement front cover
  14. I would also check prop uj's as can't see anything on hubs would make it squeal only when pulling uphill. Prop uj will squel when loaded.
  15. I did the lt77 200tdi to 300tdi with r380 conversion I fitted it in factory position so needed to replace engine mounts, change both propshafts, seat box and tunnel, oil cooler pipes, coolant hoses, radiator and intercooler, air filter and pipework, coolant expansion bottle and exhaust. Yes it all added up but I now know if something goes wrong I can fit standard 300 parts rather than conversion hoses or having to cut and shut hoses.
  16. as above approved tool and only on suspect corroded and weakend areas. cant just go along beating the chassis the whole length.
  17. when i went from lt77 to r380 i had to change slave cylinder pipework as on oposite side but cylinder was the same. ( actually bent original pipe to suit until new one arrived) also used same release fork and rod. cant see the stumpy being any different to be fair
  18. the earlier master 2 pipes goto the pdwa. from there 1 line does both rears, the other both fronts with a t by o/s/f spring seat in chassis. only way to split left/right or diagonal is to have 2 lines to the rear. the earlier master also has a bigger union on 1 port so i assume 1 stage of master creates more fluid movement.
  19. i have my old valve with switch if you want it. just cover postage cost
  20. the older 110 split front to rear on master cylinder. the 3 port splits front and rear on 1 part of the master and the other front out the other port. so they must think its safer to run just 1 front rather than just rears in case of major leak which i can see the sense in that logic.
  21. dont think its as easy as going from disco into a defender as ashcroft do the adapter. dont think there are adapters to put defender into disco. you been offered a straight swap which is easiest option.
  22. do you know for a link with how to do the td5 and programming
  23. mike. my 110 had that valve and i had brake problems so i took it out and made 2 small link pipes. may have it somewhere still there is no need to change to a 300 master as 1) its only a pressure differentiate indicator 2) you still got 2 circuits off the master so if 1 fails you still have 1 brake circuit.
  24. i did have a read but im on 235/85/16 and cant find any other options as need less teeth on drive gear
  25. ive got a 1989 110 running 300tdi, r380 gearbox and 1.2 transfer box. speedo was reading faster than going and had 23 teeth so swapped for a blue 20 tooth drive gear. it has brought speedo closer to telling the truth but still showing 11% faster than actually travelling at and also putting 11% more miles on the clock too. any suggestions as dont think there is an alternative or do i need a new speedo head? thanks in advance
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