Tim2809

It alters the biting point so they say to wind out the pedal stop to allow the pedal to come up further so you can get more throw and some clearance. i believe its smaller bore so less fluid pushed into the slave if you goto adjust pedal from factory settings then to me its not fit for purpose but thats my opinion.

Thanks for clearing it up, picture and descriptions on lrcat does not mention any of it

Im in the middle of a chassis change and i converted my 110 to td5 using a bosch 044 pump. now chassis being changed im fitting proper td5 tank and pump. can anyone tell me the difference between WQB100440 and WQB100410. They change on xa chassis code i believe so possibly 10p 15p change over. does it really matter which pump i get as long as its a defender pump. cheers tim

Sorry for being late to the party, yes my stt pro did 11000 miles before being scraped all went out of shape. Cooper were not interested blaming suspension bushes, shocks, towing too much off road, too many road miles running too heavy regularly. . They would not inspect even when i offered to pay carriage for them .

Sp4x4 was run by brothers and they sold the company about 18 months ago. customer service and fit of the panels have deteriorated from what has been reported by various people. paintman panels have a good reputation for quality and fitment.

Yep you have! Mine i tried to keep it standard looking so availability of parts are easier if needed. as your running a r380 box it makes it easier with less to replace i bought a second hand td5 r380, weld on engine mounts from dixon fabrication. you need to get a defender rad, all coolant hoses, header bottle and intercooler for td5. Standalone loom available from various outlets. Throttle pedal needs to suit the 10p 2 track or 15p 3 track but with nanocom can be set to correct type. ecu ideally needs to be defender orientation but if you get it mapped it can be changed. radiator lower mounts need changing and top brackets are different too. if your bonnet had the reinforcement bars down the middle they may need manipulation to clear the rocker cover. fuel everyone says use an 044 pump but ive got a slight hold back on hard acceleration with my standard ecu, 1 tuner says its because ive not got a swirl pot fitted but my Mapped ecu is fine. Still out on that idea as ive got fuel coming back through pressure regulator so that suggests ive got enough fuel

Ive ran my 300tdi with a brass y piece for years without issue.

Well at least i dont have to fund the fuel tank contents. Bit more poke and no worse on fuel will be ok

I hope a td5 would be better than a tdi or my conversion will be pointless. 16-18mpg out of my 300

Get some liquid ptfe and coat the threads, refit, leave for 30 mins before refilling system.

I was more thinking of one of the gearbox rebuilders doing a selectable lt230. ive certainly never come across a 3 position diff lock mech

Ive just had to do mine this weekend on a replacement axle except mine were m12x1.75. drop rear steering to make it easier to access

Dont suppose he has 1 of those lt230 that has been adapted for 2wd

My clutchfix clutch is at 70k miles and still happily pull over 4 ton off road around farms.

Just plain ep gear oil on the splines as the transferbox input gear is 99% cross drilled ( early ones were not but most have been changed) and using thick grease could stop oil tracking through the drilling to lube the shaft splines. bit of oil on the shafts oil seal shoulder is enough aswell

What i found with my 200tdi when ever i had cooling system apart was to fill at the rad til header bottle was on max, refit cap and fill rad to the top. Fit bung into rad. then i had to loosen heater hose at matrix and start engine. gently ease heater pipe off the matrix to bleed air as it would get stuck in the heater and then refit, tighten clamp. shut off engine, recheck level and then restart and warm up at approx 1500rpm to check heater was getting warm before finally road testing

What engine have you got fitted? Certainly sounds like an air lock

Also change non return valves in the filter head. fit new filter too

If you got a broken boost compensation pipe you will struggle getting a decent top speed as the pump wont be supplying adequate fuel at higher revs and boost

I would be checking the block is flat in that area.

Was head and block checked for flatness when you changed it last

Dont believe their is a seatbelt warning light on a defender, certainly not an early on. 1 of the icons is also cab tilted from when they used the panel for the llama

I have in the past heated with oxy kit, just kept going round and around til it fell off and flipped it over and did the same to refit. looks like you did a great job, not many would attempt such a job at home

Look for a 24v a127 alternator

The round plug is the efi pump wiring so just tape it up out the way