Tim2809

What about inside on the wheel box https://www.raptor4x4.co.uk/raptor-4x4-internal-wheel-carrier-land-rover-defender-90-110-130.html

I fitted a recon r380 from beaumont gearboxes in Halifax. Was cheaper than ashcroft but more importantly had them in stock waiting to go. Ashcroft was 8 week lead time

That's even better news as I put a nos master on it earlier in the year.

Cheers that's the numbers I came up with. Next project will be fitting rear disc to rear axle and presuming I have to change the master and servo to a 300tdi

Sounds like engine was stood a while and valve not seated correctly. After getting it to run it freed off.

That's good to know, as the part numbers change through out the years I was unsure. Might refurb mine with stainless pistons then if they are all the same

That's interesting as its a landrover 300tdi rebuild manual that states 68mm. In pic it does look like the 300 is about 55mm

My data states 68mm too. 20mm shrink is probably to be expected after min of 20 years use. I would be getting a new spring and plunger to be safe.

Got a 1989 110 originally a 2.5td running original narrow arm solid dis. Axle. Looking at replacing front callipers believe 1 of the part numbers is Rtc5573 Have changed front discs and pads with ferodo pads, rear mintex shoes and Delphi cylinders. New master cylinder and servo tested and works well but when towing the brakes are poor. The front caliper pistons were not as easy as I would of liked when pushing back in My question is, Is there a more modern/better caliper from a newer model that's a direct fit before ordering a new pair. I want to eventually fit discs the the rear salisbury axle but want to sort front axle first. Thanks in advance

Sorry it slipped my mind. Just had a look and where I had an issue with previous owners wiring burning out when I remade the loom I taped it up so cannot see colours easy. The cables each side of plug are the same so we can work out off wiring diagram what colour does what.

I've fitted a 300tdi engine into my 1989 110 that was a 2.5td. I connected the 300 loom to the original plug so can still disconnect it easy when I need to remove engine. Can get pics later if needed. Hopefully it will show what colour cables go where. If you not got the engine loom you can remove plug and either hard solder cable extensions or better option a new multiway plug

On my series that I fitted tdi I got a garage to write a letter on headed paper stating engine number size and how well it was fitted. Sent copy with my V5 to dvla and insurance and everything was sorted.

I have britpart retrim kits on mine. Can't tell the difference apart from cost compared to exmoor trim. I also fitted the britpart heated seat kit at the same time. 2 years later seats still like new and still toasty warm

I got bearmach and 3 years still water tight and soft

If over adjusted it won't allow anymore fluid into the master cylinder with pedal up so can restrict fluid going through to the slave. Also has it still got the slave cylinder spacer fitted between it and the gearbox. Later replacement slaves don't need it

Bearmach are selling bulkheads with "may need modification" to fit and not oem so probably the same ones So who do people use for replacement bulkheads?

Just an update for those who offered help, compressor was on its last legs so replaced and both front arm bushes were changed as we're so worn it had bent both front shock shafts which is why it would not alter its height.

Yes. I usually apply to sump then clean block and a cuppa. Even tried the vag sump sealant thank sticks like mad. Came to the conclusion the sump was slightly distorted and was soft around bolts.

Would not worry about them being longer. I would want to make sure from the point to the beginning of the thread is the same length.

Not leaked in over 12 months yet, what I did find with rtv was sump is soft around the bolts so can push the rtv out so had minimal around bolts which is why I tapped the high spots down and tried a gasket

There is a gasket available that fits the 300tdi sump on ebay

Cheers garry for advice, suspension will stay up for weeks if left stood so don't think there's any leaks. It's booked in with local specialist so their headache now.

Further checks it appears front shocks are not working, air compressor is over heating if lowered and then put in high and now won't go down on the front says extended suspension move from obsticle and retry.

It's able to go through full range of height settings. The back is smooth to ride in but the front feels like if it was old school the shocks are not working. No diagnostics yet as garage can't touch it for 2 weeks

My bosses 2011 rrs tdv6 seems to be very bouncy on front end. Is there any self calibration that can be done or are the air bag/shock combos a common failure at £600 each. Any help appreciated