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Tim2809

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Everything posted by Tim2809

  1. I also have clutch fix HD clutch. Pedal is lighter than standard. Its in a 300tdi but with earlier clutch pedal so has return spring rather than the helper spring.
  2. That's not the water pump. It's the viscous fan mounted on idler. Only available with replacement front cover
  3. I would also check prop uj's as can't see anything on hubs would make it squeal only when pulling uphill. Prop uj will squel when loaded.
  4. I did the lt77 200tdi to 300tdi with r380 conversion I fitted it in factory position so needed to replace engine mounts, change both propshafts, seat box and tunnel, oil cooler pipes, coolant hoses, radiator and intercooler, air filter and pipework, coolant expansion bottle and exhaust. Yes it all added up but I now know if something goes wrong I can fit standard 300 parts rather than conversion hoses or having to cut and shut hoses.
  5. as above approved tool and only on suspect corroded and weakend areas. cant just go along beating the chassis the whole length.
  6. when i went from lt77 to r380 i had to change slave cylinder pipework as on oposite side but cylinder was the same. ( actually bent original pipe to suit until new one arrived) also used same release fork and rod. cant see the stumpy being any different to be fair
  7. the earlier master 2 pipes goto the pdwa. from there 1 line does both rears, the other both fronts with a t by o/s/f spring seat in chassis. only way to split left/right or diagonal is to have 2 lines to the rear. the earlier master also has a bigger union on 1 port so i assume 1 stage of master creates more fluid movement.
  8. i have my old valve with switch if you want it. just cover postage cost
  9. the older 110 split front to rear on master cylinder. the 3 port splits front and rear on 1 part of the master and the other front out the other port. so they must think its safer to run just 1 front rather than just rears in case of major leak which i can see the sense in that logic.
  10. dont think its as easy as going from disco into a defender as ashcroft do the adapter. dont think there are adapters to put defender into disco. you been offered a straight swap which is easiest option.
  11. do you know for a link with how to do the td5 and programming
  12. mike. my 110 had that valve and i had brake problems so i took it out and made 2 small link pipes. may have it somewhere still there is no need to change to a 300 master as 1) its only a pressure differentiate indicator 2) you still got 2 circuits off the master so if 1 fails you still have 1 brake circuit.
  13. i did have a read but im on 235/85/16 and cant find any other options as need less teeth on drive gear
  14. ive got a 1989 110 running 300tdi, r380 gearbox and 1.2 transfer box. speedo was reading faster than going and had 23 teeth so swapped for a blue 20 tooth drive gear. it has brought speedo closer to telling the truth but still showing 11% faster than actually travelling at and also putting 11% more miles on the clock too. any suggestions as dont think there is an alternative or do i need a new speedo head? thanks in advance
  15. could also be the lift pump diaphragm allowing air in so fuel runs back
  16. 18mpg. brownchurch rack and roof tent. weighs in at 2870kg lucky work supplies fuel foc but think engine has seen better days
  17. they cant look at it until next thursday so was just hoping something easy to check. centre consol is easy to get out so might pop it out and check back of the radio
  18. my bosses 2010 facelift range rover sport has lost all radio reception. its full touchscreen in dash unit with sharkfin on roof. recently a garage had dash out to do heater matrix and wondered if theres a plug somewhere i could check. many thanks
  19. if you got an alarm fit a pin switch behind headlight trims, if removed alarm is activated. bolts and nyloc nuts but with standard looking heads will confuse most
  20. i mo longer have clutch slip but if i do press clutch pedal abit more than riding the clutch it will slip. main thing is it wont slip and fully engages/disengages thanks everyone for all help and suggestions by rights i should now be bald
  21. from hunting around i found i have the correct bearing and pushrod. i made 1 clutch up out of the 2 of the same make i have and initial feel is better. cannot get it to slip when trying to pull away with footbrake applied so fingers crossed
  22. engine out and measured. pushrod protrudes 25mm out of slave hole. bearing has about 40mm of clearance at rear so does not appear to be binding. old gearbox had pushrod of 95mm length. replacement has 105mm rod. flywheel has no groves or high spots. checked finger height on clutch before removing and bolted to spare flywheel and both same height bearing face to slipper pad approx 35mm many thanks for all your suggestions so far.
  23. had a read. interesting but mine is not a stumpy r380. so confused even more. im pulling engine out now so will see. im going to takee slave off and measure rod protrution before splitting and try and measure where bearing sits and see it its restricted
  24. weather permitting i will be pulling engine tomorrow. anyone know dimension of either bearing?
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