montyjn

I must admit I did change quite a bit (had the dizzy rebuilt etc). What seemed to cure it was fully balancing the carbs with an air flow meter. One bank was getting far too little flow. Once fixed it started on the button even when hot.

Glad you got your issue sorted. I had a similar system rebuilt a few years back. Details and some pics (including of the inside of the evaporator etc) here: https://www.facebook.com/page/110025449507749/search/?q=land rover

I've used them too. Not the cheapest, but great for genuine bits - especially harder to fine NLA parts for the pre Defender models.

3.5 v8 110 1988 Recently my temperature gauge has started reading excessively high (no relevant recent work to the dash or sender that I can think of). I've checked the actual temperature of the engine with a laser thermometer and all seems well. Am I right in thinking that the gauge is supplied with 12v and then the temperature sender is effectively a variable resistor in the circuit? In order to fault find, am I best looking for leakage to earth, or poor earth connections at the gauge / engine? I've tried a spare sender I had and the change in sender does not seem to solve the issue. Welcome any guidance on how to approach looking at the issue / how the circuit works! Monty

Yes, mine has the LT85 which I assume was factory fitted (the later case design).

Yes. Although, the pipe I mean is: ERC3956

So, finally got some time to look into this issue. The carbs were definitely quite out of balance on my flow meter, so have balanced them up and it is definitely starting better when warm. I've also leaned the mixture slightly on the carbs, using the lifting the piston approach. Although I must admit this method still feels quite alien to me and the 1mm lift doesn't seem to always give the expected response to understand how lean / rich they are running. I think the carbs probably need to come off as I can see some black deposits on the pistons, suggesting they might be quite coked up inside. I also noticed some perished piping to the air cleaner, so some things to think about. Next step is to change the plugs and take it on some test drives to put some miles through the system. Thanks again for all the advice!

Thanks guys. Will give both a go. Spark plugs are NGK I think.

Fridge, yes crank and crank and will not fire.

Yes. Return line fitted to the carbs / tank. FridgeFreezer, in my head I’ve discounted this as the distributor doc has refurbed the dizzy and replaced that item?

Thanks guys. That’s really helpful. I’ll have a play in the coming week or so and report back. I have an old MG on SUs so have some experience in setting them up and do have an old carb balancer too! Be interesting to see what I find.

Thanks guys. Running the stock SUs, which I believe are HIF44. Air filter setup is also stock. Fuel pump replaced circa 4 years ago with an in tank version per original. Can’t recall what brand. So a carb strip down could be in order. In terms of fuel Vapourisation. Shouldn’t the pump push past any locking?

1988 v8 110 Have a trusty old 110 with a factory fitted carb rover v8. Starts on the button (cold or mild weather), but has always had issues re-starting once run for a while when stopped (including when stopped for fuel etc!). I've tried to work through issues it could be, but having the ignition side of the system rebuilt (distributor) and new leads, cap, rotor arm and leads (all distributor doctor), but the issue persists. Could anyone suggest a list of things I should investigate. I was wondering about cleaning up the carbs (re-built 4ish years ago) and having a general tune up. Perhaps looking at a new battery and starter motor, but given it starts cold, these seem like less of an area for issues. I've had a go at varying my hot starting technique (as it were) with no choke / choke, throttle / no throttle etc. Any thoughts / advice greatly received!

Just to follow up on this, the black and white wires don't look like they would fit onto the warning bulb cluster as the connectors are the wrong size and the PDWA light is fed through the main wide and flat loom into the back. Any other ideas?!