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Flash17

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About Flash17

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  • Location
    At sea

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  • Interests
    Tinkering with big engines (anything 10000BHP+), drinking rum & cider, tinkering with steam driven stuff and trying to work out why I ever thought buying a ex mil 110 v8 to keep me out the pub would be a good idea.

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  1. UJ joint propshaft - part confirm

    Your UJs come in different bearing cap sizes depending on the age of the propshaft. Measure the diameter of the bearing caps and that will tell you which ones to buy. Some are marketed as HD, (basically they have a bigger yoke and bearings) but fit in the same standard prop shaft joints. I think some vehicals may be fitted with these from build if a HD spec. OEM used to be GKN (same company as Hardy Spicer) I brought HD version (as I tow reasonby heavy trailers) rather than LR branded for half the price, changed all four when I had one original fail and found slack in anouther and 35k miles later and they are still good.
  2. Convoy light fuse

    See picture, these are the fuse positions in my 1990 ex mod 110, convoy third from the left, bottom row, hope this helps.
  3. Many thanks for the words of wisdom, looks like a perfect excuse to go looking for a disc braked sailsbury then!
  4. 3.5 V8 tuning

    Hi you could put high compression pistons in but as stated above its pricey for the power gains your going to get relative to thowing a 3.9 in, on the plus side LPG is slightly higher octain so really likes higher compression ratios. the other way to go to easily bolt on power is a edelbrock/webber or Holly four barrel carb kit/efi kit, the bonus being you can trasfer it to a larger engine in the future. But the really aint no subsitute for larger capacity in the first place to build on.
  5. 3.5 v8 8.13:1 compression test

    Hi, in short 3.9 cams shouldnt affect the compression ratios as the cylinder swept volume remains the same and valves should still be closed on the conpression stroke, i believe the 3.9 cams either gave more valve lift than a 3.5 cam or held the valves open a slightly longer duration as the larger engine could digest more air and fuel, (there are probably people on here who can talk in far more detail about it) but if you get more air in the cylinders you can tune the carbs to throw more fuel in thus more power for pennies if you had to replace a cam anyway. The two cylinders that are lower than the other 6..... are they next to each other in the block? If so suspect head gasket leaking between them possibly. and rough running, not to teach you to suck eggs but a genuin dissy roater cap and leads can cure all sorts of evils, and if the engine were scap you can put these on a different unit easily so not money lost. company called RPI have lots of usefull info on thier website if you fancy a look, may turn up your desired pressures for compression test.
  6. Hi all, Can i pick you collective brains please? I have a badly worn sailsbury dif in a ex mod v8 110 and a spare SIII (I think as it has leaf spring clamps and is not as wide) Salisbury axel with a barely worn diff, I Know the whole axel is not interchangable, and I know the diff carrier looks about the same size, I know ring gears and pinions are matched pairs, and I know I would have to do a set up from scratch with new shims and crush tube etc. However what I don't know is, are the ring gear and pinions interchangable between a 110 and a series 3 sailsbury axel, if not does anyone know the ratios of either or. Any advice/wisdom would be greatfully received. many thanks in advance.
  7. Lt230 transfer box rebuild

    Hi Chris, I've not done a transfer case but I managed a lt85 on a little ten ton hydraulic press with a hand pump we had at work, I never really used its full capacity, I think the most I saw was 3t on the gauge. Workshop service manual was a good guide, and I didn't use any specialist tools, just made up drifts and collars out of bits and pieces and was carefull and methodical. I have a 1.2 in my 110 and its well worth percivering to achive. good luck
  8. Not falling into gears

    Before commiting to dropping the gb consider trying to work out if its hydraulic or mechanical problems. With the slave cylinder removed and the engine running out of gear you should hear the input shaft and lay shaft rotating in the gear box. Useing a long bar i would very carefully push the release arm where the slave cylinder acts on it through the bell housing opening where the slave cylinder sits (watch out for the rotating flywheel) If you hear the gear box stop rotating then your problem is hydraulic if the box wont stop rotating your probably going to have to get things to pieces. If your working without a ramp and transmission jack I find it easier to lift the engine than drop the gearbox to get at the clutch.
  9. Defender air filter canister drain

    Google this for an idea of what should be there MUC2417 As said by Paddy above I'd reinstate the rubber valve if your not intending to go playing in deep water, as it allows condensation formed in the intake as the engine bay cools down in cold weather to drain away.
  10. Ashtree international

    Matt, I had similar dealings with Ashtree and they lost my business due to not answering email enquiries, I have ended up with a Mossside land rover bulkhead and it was supplied without exchange and I was very pleased and would be happy to deal with him again, but I did have to wait and I had the luxury of time on my side.... However, having just done what you are trying to do and swapped a bulkhead whilst keeping the motor in one piece for as long as possible I now have a stripped of all components, shot to pieces 1990 v8 bulkhead not fit to go on a vehicle in any way shape or form, however if your after a unit to exchange or have refurbed without removing yours so as to keep your motor on the road it may help you out, the bulk head is located in the midlands (Birmingham five min from the m42/m5 interchange) but I'm not in a position to take photos at the moment but if your interested PM me.
  11. rabid 110

  12. Foot Brake and Rear Drive

    Ok that's weird. for give me for asking but is the diff definitely in the locked position? or are you relying on the position of the diff lock lever to confirm this? I'm fairly simple and go for checking the easy stuff first. Am I right to assume you have the vehicle off the ground with the four wheels/hubs free to spin? If I were doing this I would: drop front and rear props off the transfer case. with the engine shut down put the main gear box in gear ensure the transfer box is not in neutral place the dif lock in release the handbrake attempt to rotate one transfer box output flange by hand (it shouldn't rotate) now take the diff lock out try and rotate one of the transfer case output flanges by hand (it should rotate freely and the other flange should rotate in the opposite direction) if I'm wrong can someone correct me quick if the above is correct its not the diff or its operating mechanism and I haven't a clue. if the opposite occurs then I have no idea why, but you diff locked and open positions are swapped maybe because of the operating mechanism. It may seem strange but the high and low on my 110 are the opposite way round to what the top of the transfer gear knob says I just live with it and cant be arsed to try and change it. if the diff wont lock at all after the above test so you can always rotate by hand and the other flange rotates opposite, check for slack in the operating mechanism and if found disconnect the mechanism and try engaging and disengaging with the lever directly on top of the transfer case. if the diff now locks you have slack/wear in the operating lever/mechanism, if it stays unlocked I'd guess you have problems deeper in your transfer case and it may be time to have a look in the tech manuals It may get you more help if you were to identify what gearbox/engine combo you car is as people may have experience of something similar. eg lt95 (combined four speed and tx case), or lt77, lt85, r380 (five speed with a separate 230 transfer box)
  13. Mr Freezer, Very many thanks massively helpful advice that explains a few things, although I've seen these diagrams before, I'd previously discounted them as wrong for my motor as the fuse box is the one with 12 fuses not 20 odd I have, so I assume it was the early cartridge/ceramic/glass (what you call the small cylindrical type fuses) not the same as mine with the blade fuses. I'd also discounted it as I had assumed the 12J engines were oil burners (which is what the diagram is marked up for) and the cct would differ somewhat to a V8 vehical. However, you've said the wire colours remain true across models as does the basic loom as its used on both petrol and diesel, so I've had a mooch round the loom with the aid of the above diagrams and found indeed that I have wiring for glow plugs (useful on a rover V8) so what you've stated is very true so, so I have most of the basics, I only now have to find the diagrams for my model year not V8 specific for the details. I think the Haynes manuals for Defenders covers the 1990 year but only diesels hence why I had discounted looking at those diagrams before, so me thinks I go read some books tomorrow and see if the diagrams bear resemblance to my new loom and if so problem solved. So very many thanks for that I truly never thought it would be the same main loom in all engine types, would make sense though as I assume it would cut production costs only having to manufacture a single loom for all defenders! If I find some decent diagrams for a 1990 year I'll try and post them on here.
  14. Shims

    From what you have diagnosed yourself from rocking the wheel at 12/6 and 3/9 oclock you could have slight play in the swivel pins (i have no idea if this would cause you steering issues but it something to eliminate) and yes you can tighten them by removing a shim, but before striping down the swivel pins to do this, just check the two bolts on the top of the swivel housing are torqued up (the ones by the mount bracket for the brake backing plate) and I think there are two bolts underneath the swivel housing in a corresponding place to the top ones. I'm no where close to my 110 at the moment to look and check for you but maybe some one else could confirm this?
  15. Ah makes sense, one question down many to go. much appreciated!
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