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Flash17

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About Flash17

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  • Location
    At sea

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  • Interests
    Tinkering with big engines (anything 10000BHP+), drinking rum & cider, tinkering with steam driven stuff and trying to work out why I ever thought buying a ex mil 110 v8 to keep me out the pub would be a good idea.

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  1. Flash17

    front brake upgrade?

    Tread carefully with what parts you fit, I did this conversion to a 1990 110 the discs appear to be all the same and its true all the calipers will fit the mounting holes even if they are the smaller piston diameter early 90 size, however I can tell you from experience I brought a kit with spacers to convert the calipers, I then found the now wider calliper fouled the back of the hub and had to machine about 3mm off the rear of the hub on the lathe to allow the hub to rotate cleanly. Not sure if this was down to the kit I used, or if there is a diference in hub thickness on the early vs factory fit vented disc 110s, or maybe the vented calipers have less material to allow clearence. Another worth while "whilst its in bits anyhow upgrade" is Zuse Engineering stainless caliper pistons, expensive, easy to fit but I haven't had to change one since I got them, before every time I did pads I would have at least one piston with the chrome coming off trashing the seal. good luck
  2. Flash17

    Leaking Shock

    Real simple test is to stand on your front bumper or rear door step and jump up and down, if the shocks are decent they will control the spring return rate and the vehical will settle at the right ride height straight away, bad shocks wont damp the spring and will allow the car to carry on bouncing a few times after you stoped jumping. Oil dribbling out the shock pretty much says its end of life and as stated above by Tanuki replace both as a pair on one axel, it may feel fine to drive about sedately, but a knackered shock can give a nasty suprise when hiting something sizable (such as the crater sized potholes our road tax should be paying to repair on the motorways) at speed as the spring will compress and then expand back without control makeing the car bounce, had it happen in a hire car once and found myself rather unpleasently halfway across the next lane. Brand is personal choice but can say Ive had Koni adjustables on all round for 90k kilometers and no complaints so far.
  3. Flash17

    Insurance on engine modification

    Footman james, they sorted me out a few years back when I was younger and didnt bat an eyelid when i gave a long list of mods for a 110, plus an engine swap 3.5 for a 3.9, they put me on a classic commercial policy and beat everyone else by around £200.
  4. Flash17

    Troubles starting 2.5NA 110

    I had this exact fault and chased it for weeks, blamed the battery, starter relay, the alternator testing each in turn and finding no fault till eventually found a faulty starter motor was draining the battery with a sticking solenoid, swaped for a recon unit and haven't had a problem since (last 3years)
  5. Flash17

    UJ joint propshaft - part confirm

    Your UJs come in different bearing cap sizes depending on the age of the propshaft. Measure the diameter of the bearing caps and that will tell you which ones to buy. Some are marketed as HD, (basically they have a bigger yoke and bearings) but fit in the same standard prop shaft joints. I think some vehicals may be fitted with these from build if a HD spec. OEM used to be GKN (same company as Hardy Spicer) I brought HD version (as I tow reasonby heavy trailers) rather than LR branded for half the price, changed all four when I had one original fail and found slack in anouther and 35k miles later and they are still good.
  6. Flash17

    Convoy light fuse

    See picture, these are the fuse positions in my 1990 ex mod 110, convoy third from the left, bottom row, hope this helps.
  7. Many thanks for the words of wisdom, looks like a perfect excuse to go looking for a disc braked sailsbury then!
  8. Flash17

    3.5 V8 tuning

    Hi you could put high compression pistons in but as stated above its pricey for the power gains your going to get relative to thowing a 3.9 in, on the plus side LPG is slightly higher octain so really likes higher compression ratios. the other way to go to easily bolt on power is a edelbrock/webber or Holly four barrel carb kit/efi kit, the bonus being you can trasfer it to a larger engine in the future. But the really aint no subsitute for larger capacity in the first place to build on.
  9. Flash17

    3.5 v8 8.13:1 compression test

    Hi, in short 3.9 cams shouldnt affect the compression ratios as the cylinder swept volume remains the same and valves should still be closed on the conpression stroke, i believe the 3.9 cams either gave more valve lift than a 3.5 cam or held the valves open a slightly longer duration as the larger engine could digest more air and fuel, (there are probably people on here who can talk in far more detail about it) but if you get more air in the cylinders you can tune the carbs to throw more fuel in thus more power for pennies if you had to replace a cam anyway. The two cylinders that are lower than the other 6..... are they next to each other in the block? If so suspect head gasket leaking between them possibly. and rough running, not to teach you to suck eggs but a genuin dissy roater cap and leads can cure all sorts of evils, and if the engine were scap you can put these on a different unit easily so not money lost. company called RPI have lots of usefull info on thier website if you fancy a look, may turn up your desired pressures for compression test.
  10. Hi all, Can i pick you collective brains please? I have a badly worn sailsbury dif in a ex mod v8 110 and a spare SIII (I think as it has leaf spring clamps and is not as wide) Salisbury axel with a barely worn diff, I Know the whole axel is not interchangable, and I know the diff carrier looks about the same size, I know ring gears and pinions are matched pairs, and I know I would have to do a set up from scratch with new shims and crush tube etc. However what I don't know is, are the ring gear and pinions interchangable between a 110 and a series 3 sailsbury axel, if not does anyone know the ratios of either or. Any advice/wisdom would be greatfully received. many thanks in advance.
  11. Flash17

    Lt230 transfer box rebuild

    Hi Chris, I've not done a transfer case but I managed a lt85 on a little ten ton hydraulic press with a hand pump we had at work, I never really used its full capacity, I think the most I saw was 3t on the gauge. Workshop service manual was a good guide, and I didn't use any specialist tools, just made up drifts and collars out of bits and pieces and was carefull and methodical. I have a 1.2 in my 110 and its well worth percivering to achive. good luck
  12. Flash17

    Not falling into gears

    Before commiting to dropping the gb consider trying to work out if its hydraulic or mechanical problems. With the slave cylinder removed and the engine running out of gear you should hear the input shaft and lay shaft rotating in the gear box. Useing a long bar i would very carefully push the release arm where the slave cylinder acts on it through the bell housing opening where the slave cylinder sits (watch out for the rotating flywheel) If you hear the gear box stop rotating then your problem is hydraulic if the box wont stop rotating your probably going to have to get things to pieces. If your working without a ramp and transmission jack I find it easier to lift the engine than drop the gearbox to get at the clutch.
  13. Flash17

    Defender air filter canister drain

    Google this for an idea of what should be there MUC2417 As said by Paddy above I'd reinstate the rubber valve if your not intending to go playing in deep water, as it allows condensation formed in the intake as the engine bay cools down in cold weather to drain away.
  14. Flash17

    Ashtree international

    Matt, I had similar dealings with Ashtree and they lost my business due to not answering email enquiries, I have ended up with a Mossside land rover bulkhead and it was supplied without exchange and I was very pleased and would be happy to deal with him again, but I did have to wait and I had the luxury of time on my side.... However, having just done what you are trying to do and swapped a bulkhead whilst keeping the motor in one piece for as long as possible I now have a stripped of all components, shot to pieces 1990 v8 bulkhead not fit to go on a vehicle in any way shape or form, however if your after a unit to exchange or have refurbed without removing yours so as to keep your motor on the road it may help you out, the bulk head is located in the midlands (Birmingham five min from the m42/m5 interchange) but I'm not in a position to take photos at the moment but if your interested PM me.
  15. Flash17

    Foot Brake and Rear Drive

    Ok that's weird. for give me for asking but is the diff definitely in the locked position? or are you relying on the position of the diff lock lever to confirm this? I'm fairly simple and go for checking the easy stuff first. Am I right to assume you have the vehicle off the ground with the four wheels/hubs free to spin? If I were doing this I would: drop front and rear props off the transfer case. with the engine shut down put the main gear box in gear ensure the transfer box is not in neutral place the dif lock in release the handbrake attempt to rotate one transfer box output flange by hand (it shouldn't rotate) now take the diff lock out try and rotate one of the transfer case output flanges by hand (it should rotate freely and the other flange should rotate in the opposite direction) if I'm wrong can someone correct me quick if the above is correct its not the diff or its operating mechanism and I haven't a clue. if the opposite occurs then I have no idea why, but you diff locked and open positions are swapped maybe because of the operating mechanism. It may seem strange but the high and low on my 110 are the opposite way round to what the top of the transfer gear knob says I just live with it and cant be arsed to try and change it. if the diff wont lock at all after the above test so you can always rotate by hand and the other flange rotates opposite, check for slack in the operating mechanism and if found disconnect the mechanism and try engaging and disengaging with the lever directly on top of the transfer case. if the diff now locks you have slack/wear in the operating lever/mechanism, if it stays unlocked I'd guess you have problems deeper in your transfer case and it may be time to have a look in the tech manuals It may get you more help if you were to identify what gearbox/engine combo you car is as people may have experience of something similar. eg lt95 (combined four speed and tx case), or lt77, lt85, r380 (five speed with a separate 230 transfer box)
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