Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Flash17

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    At sea

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Tinkering with big engines (anything 10000BHP+), drinking rum & cider, tinkering with steam driven stuff and trying to work out why I ever thought buying a ex mil 110 v8 to keep me out the pub would be a good idea.

Recent Profile Visitors

275 profile views
  1. Flash17

    Will Rover 3.5 V8 engine from SD1 fit to LT95?

    Should fit the lt95 without drama, apart from as stated above swaping the fly wheels over. Some minor points of note, (and I'm assuming your swaping vehical original V8s, if not please correct/forgive me) if your replacing a factory fitted V8 with one from a SD1 you may find the LR engine is fitted with stroberg carbs and the SD1 engine is SUs stick with the SUs as the SD1 engine is likely to be a high compression ratio (CR) engine (9.35:1 ish) and the LR lump a paltry 8.13:1 or figures something like that (i forget) if they are original, therefor the SUs with likely have the correct needles for the engine, and the SD1 high CR v8 should give a little more power too than the original. That is unless the SD1 V8 is a EFI unit..... in which case if you want to keep it EFI good luck plumbing it in (as you need to change fuel pumps/line etc), but you could just put your original carbs and inlet manifold on the SD1 v8 and it would still be fine. CRs are stamped next to the engine numbers if your interested to find out for sure. If your considering running LPG in the future, LPG loves high compression ratios as a added bonus too. best of luck!
  2. If they all share a common earth wire down the back end of the tub may be worth checking? May be worth checking that they havent got a bad comon earth connection on the switches too?
  3. Flash17

    battery isolate

    Hi, If all you want is very simple additional security with a isolator switch and removable key the you can place on either the positive to the starter motor or the negative to the chassis. For additional security hide the switch. At work we have twin battery set ups on boats and each positive lead from each battery needs its own switch.....expensive On the works trucks we have twin batteries (one for starting & one to run equipment) with both battery negatives using the same cable to the chassis with a single isolator swich to kill the whole system, cheeper and effective. If you place your switch on the negative and upgrade to a twin battery set up in the future you wont need to place a second swich when you do so. A word of caution if you have accessories such as extra lights etc wired direct to your battery, ensure that they are wired to the none battery side of the switch, this ensures if the fuse blows power can't be routed though them when you try and start therefor potentially damaging them.
  4. Flash17

    front brake upgrade?

    Tread carefully with what parts you fit, I did this conversion to a 1990 110 the discs appear to be all the same and its true all the calipers will fit the mounting holes even if they are the smaller piston diameter early 90 size, however I can tell you from experience I brought a kit with spacers to convert the calipers, I then found the now wider calliper fouled the back of the hub and had to machine about 3mm off the rear of the hub on the lathe to allow the hub to rotate cleanly. Not sure if this was down to the kit I used, or if there is a diference in hub thickness on the early vs factory fit vented disc 110s, or maybe the vented calipers have less material to allow clearence. Another worth while "whilst its in bits anyhow upgrade" is Zuse Engineering stainless caliper pistons, expensive, easy to fit but I haven't had to change one since I got them, before every time I did pads I would have at least one piston with the chrome coming off trashing the seal. good luck
  5. Flash17

    Leaking Shock

    Real simple test is to stand on your front bumper or rear door step and jump up and down, if the shocks are decent they will control the spring return rate and the vehical will settle at the right ride height straight away, bad shocks wont damp the spring and will allow the car to carry on bouncing a few times after you stoped jumping. Oil dribbling out the shock pretty much says its end of life and as stated above by Tanuki replace both as a pair on one axel, it may feel fine to drive about sedately, but a knackered shock can give a nasty suprise when hiting something sizable (such as the crater sized potholes our road tax should be paying to repair on the motorways) at speed as the spring will compress and then expand back without control makeing the car bounce, had it happen in a hire car once and found myself rather unpleasently halfway across the next lane. Brand is personal choice but can say Ive had Koni adjustables on all round for 90k kilometers and no complaints so far.
  6. Flash17

    Insurance on engine modification

    Footman james, they sorted me out a few years back when I was younger and didnt bat an eyelid when i gave a long list of mods for a 110, plus an engine swap 3.5 for a 3.9, they put me on a classic commercial policy and beat everyone else by around £200.
  7. Flash17

    Troubles starting 2.5NA 110

    I had this exact fault and chased it for weeks, blamed the battery, starter relay, the alternator testing each in turn and finding no fault till eventually found a faulty starter motor was draining the battery with a sticking solenoid, swaped for a recon unit and haven't had a problem since (last 3years)
  8. Flash17

    UJ joint propshaft - part confirm

    Your UJs come in different bearing cap sizes depending on the age of the propshaft. Measure the diameter of the bearing caps and that will tell you which ones to buy. Some are marketed as HD, (basically they have a bigger yoke and bearings) but fit in the same standard prop shaft joints. I think some vehicals may be fitted with these from build if a HD spec. OEM used to be GKN (same company as Hardy Spicer) I brought HD version (as I tow reasonby heavy trailers) rather than LR branded for half the price, changed all four when I had one original fail and found slack in anouther and 35k miles later and they are still good.
  9. Flash17

    Convoy light fuse

    See picture, these are the fuse positions in my 1990 ex mod 110, convoy third from the left, bottom row, hope this helps.
  10. Many thanks for the words of wisdom, looks like a perfect excuse to go looking for a disc braked sailsbury then!
  11. Flash17

    3.5 V8 tuning

    Hi you could put high compression pistons in but as stated above its pricey for the power gains your going to get relative to thowing a 3.9 in, on the plus side LPG is slightly higher octain so really likes higher compression ratios. the other way to go to easily bolt on power is a edelbrock/webber or Holly four barrel carb kit/efi kit, the bonus being you can trasfer it to a larger engine in the future. But the really aint no subsitute for larger capacity in the first place to build on.
  12. Flash17

    3.5 v8 8.13:1 compression test

    Hi, in short 3.9 cams shouldnt affect the compression ratios as the cylinder swept volume remains the same and valves should still be closed on the conpression stroke, i believe the 3.9 cams either gave more valve lift than a 3.5 cam or held the valves open a slightly longer duration as the larger engine could digest more air and fuel, (there are probably people on here who can talk in far more detail about it) but if you get more air in the cylinders you can tune the carbs to throw more fuel in thus more power for pennies if you had to replace a cam anyway. The two cylinders that are lower than the other 6..... are they next to each other in the block? If so suspect head gasket leaking between them possibly. and rough running, not to teach you to suck eggs but a genuin dissy roater cap and leads can cure all sorts of evils, and if the engine were scap you can put these on a different unit easily so not money lost. company called RPI have lots of usefull info on thier website if you fancy a look, may turn up your desired pressures for compression test.
  13. Hi all, Can i pick you collective brains please? I have a badly worn sailsbury dif in a ex mod v8 110 and a spare SIII (I think as it has leaf spring clamps and is not as wide) Salisbury axel with a barely worn diff, I Know the whole axel is not interchangable, and I know the diff carrier looks about the same size, I know ring gears and pinions are matched pairs, and I know I would have to do a set up from scratch with new shims and crush tube etc. However what I don't know is, are the ring gear and pinions interchangable between a 110 and a series 3 sailsbury axel, if not does anyone know the ratios of either or. Any advice/wisdom would be greatfully received. many thanks in advance.
  14. Flash17

    Lt230 transfer box rebuild

    Hi Chris, I've not done a transfer case but I managed a lt85 on a little ten ton hydraulic press with a hand pump we had at work, I never really used its full capacity, I think the most I saw was 3t on the gauge. Workshop service manual was a good guide, and I didn't use any specialist tools, just made up drifts and collars out of bits and pieces and was carefull and methodical. I have a 1.2 in my 110 and its well worth percivering to achive. good luck
  15. Flash17

    Not falling into gears

    Before commiting to dropping the gb consider trying to work out if its hydraulic or mechanical problems. With the slave cylinder removed and the engine running out of gear you should hear the input shaft and lay shaft rotating in the gear box. Useing a long bar i would very carefully push the release arm where the slave cylinder acts on it through the bell housing opening where the slave cylinder sits (watch out for the rotating flywheel) If you hear the gear box stop rotating then your problem is hydraulic if the box wont stop rotating your probably going to have to get things to pieces. If your working without a ramp and transmission jack I find it easier to lift the engine than drop the gearbox to get at the clutch.

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy