Flash17

Fitted a set of Zeus with a set of ap branded seals around 2008, now gone through 3 sets of brake pads since then and they are still in use no issues. Unlike the Brit part pistons fitted before that lasted about 18 months before seizing (mostly due to the effects of sea air where I work) The Zeus pistons appeared very good quality with a fine machined finish, think they are well regarded in the classic car world in general, I’d use again if doing another project.

I had this exact thing with this exact manufacturer (cooper 285x75 r16 ST) after 3 years and approx 30k miles of use, Cooper exchanged the 2 worst (fronts) under warranty but 2 years later cracking was back this time cooper refused to acknowledge and I ditched them to a mate for off-road use only and switched to BFG Goodrich ATs, which have now been on the motor 60k mile and near 8 years without issue. Shame as was really happy with the tyre, worked well in snow, gave good wear rate, and was quieter that full muds on motorway I wasn’t willing to risk a blowout at 70 on the motorway and swore I’d never go back to Cooper and haven’t since. good luck getting Cooper to cough up despite an obvious issue that other manufacturers don’t have.

Cheers for the signpost to SPEAKEV I’ll take a look. The future proofing is looking to the future when both family cars end up being pure EVs (guaranteed 8 years time in 2030 if buying new) with large cap batteries and the domestic heating being moved over to heat pumps. I think even the number of EV chargers will be used in the same way as double glazing when marketing houses in the future. As for costs, the tariff we are on (one we were forced onto after our previous supplier when bump) is approx 12.3p/KWH difference between day and night rates, we charge the 15kwh battery fully approx every 2 days so 182 days x 15 x £0.123= £335.97 per year difference. It’s not massive amounts but I’d rather take the family out than waste that cash. Add to that it’s a £50k motor it should work as designed/marketed, the reason we brought a LR new was it’s a premium brand and expect it to preform as such.

Cheers for the reply Simonr you right about the external timer option it is viable, if fact I could use the timer built in to the pod point to set the charge. However then the mains electrical supply is cut off once the charge is complete and can’t be used to precondition the battery and cabin before a daytime departure there for it uses the stored ev battery charge to precondition and thus affecting EV range. Finally as you say I ought to be able to do it in my my view it’s a brand new expensive motor from a premium brand, it should work as designed!

Evening all, Probably a longshot but has anyone on here got home charging experience/issues with any of the PHEV models to come out of LR recently, if so I'd be interested to hear from you. We took a electric leap of faith (due to low emission zone charges where we live) and brought a new disco sport PHEV, the wife and I love the car (not more than the V8 110 though) with the exception of one niggle that it appears the dealer can't sort out... I can't get the LR in control phone app or the controls in the car to activate the charge time for overnight when we have cheap electricity on our economy 7 tariff, we set a scheduled charge time 0100-0500 but it just grabs electric as soon as its plugged in and doesn't wait to charge at night as it should. My gut feeling is its a software glitch (but one that's costing us lots of money ATM with day rate electric charges) that could be sorted out so I'm interested to know if other owners have had issues so as to determine if its just our motor, more widely many discovery sport PHEVs, or all current LR PHEV variants affected. Fairly sure its not a issue with our Devices (both have iPhone running up to date IOS) the car is on the latest over the air software update available, and the charger is a brand new Pod point with all the electric it needs as just put in a 3PH supply to the house to run it (and maybe a lathe in the future). Cheers in advance for any advice/experience you can share.

Swapped my bulkhead 5 years ago for a mossside LR (based in Belfast) refurbed item (delivered to my door on mainland) the excess galv ain’t pretty, I had to tap out all threads and there was a little heat warpage in the foot wells, but over all a really good product for the money, lined up square and bolted in place no problem. (My 110 is operational not decorational) Painting was done by local body shop who washed it in mordant solution first to ensure paint stuck, had no issues since. good luck!

I’ve just started to rebuild my spare lt85 Split case box (taken out for howling noisy bearings in every gear other than 4th and spline shaft wear) and found the 1/2 selector fork is stating to wear (they are notorious for this) and in my head it makes sense to swap it out whilst I have the box in bits anyway. The snag is I can’t find them for sale anyplace? Anyone else had this snag, and how did you get round it? I considered building the area on the casting with weld and then filing back to shape, anyone done this or got any idea if this is feasible or not? Cheers for the help in advance.

Look up a company called RPI Engineering and have a look at some of the kits they supply and fit, they have rear wing petrol tanks and various gas tank set ups available. I bought a kit from them to fit To my v8 110 myself, it was all good quality and easy to follow instructions. Once fitted I took it to them to test and certify and it has been running without drama ever since 2006 with about 120k miles done so far.

Hi, I have this engine as a factory fit in a 110 and can confirm the job can be done with the fan and shroud in place, but it is a faff. If you want to to remove the fan it’s is indeed a left handed thread, and a cranked slim spanner will help you out. Needless to say drop the tension on the belt after undoing the fan if your going to take the fan out. I’ve just used a pry bar to put the tensioner in the right place before doing pinch bolt up. I’m not trying to teach you to suck eggs but just check belt tension on completion, too much and you’ll trash the water pump bearings. (May have found that out from experience/my own stupidity) good luck.

Hi I ran this exact set up (but on a factory V8) with 33x12.50x15" and a 3.9 but on a four barrel carb, I found as others have said that the 1.4:1 TX box ran fine and sat about 3100 RPM at 60 mph ish, it had no problems towing and you didn't have to stir the box when faced with a sharp hill on a fast a road and gave about 13mpg (on a basic LPG draw through system). I don't tow much so swapped the Tx box for a disco 1.2:1 the RPM at 60 mph is down round 2300 ish, the cabin is a lot quieter and fuel economy is up round the 16mpg mark (again on LPG) it can labor on hills but doesn't give up. Low box driving is unchanged and I've stuck with the higher ratio as it suits my needs. If you change the Tx box over from a disco change the speedo drive gear to to give the correct speed readout (couple of quid for part). whilst you have the gear box and transfer box split as alluded to by some one else look at the output drive spline wear and tx box input gear. It is worth replacing the input gear with a later cross drilled variant (easy to do with the box on the bench) and this will halt any wear that is taking place. I remember it was £36 for the gear many years ago. I have a LT85 split case fitted to mine and whilst they are reputedly a strong box, they are noisy, the r380 is far more refined to drive with. When I did a swap the same as yours on a mates 19J 110 we cut the v8 engine mounts out of the doner rangerover and welded them into the 110 with a plate between them and the chassis to spread the load. also be prepared to either fabricate a new gear box tunnel or at least carry out some surgery on yours, how much will really depend on which box you choose to fit. On the subject of cooling the I changed my factory original 3.5 for a 3.9 and noticed in the summer it was getting uncomfortably hot sat in traffic, a defender v8 rad with a oil cooler sorted that out. If the doner engine is from a range rover it likely has a sandwich plate in between the filter and pump from which to tap a oil cooler off. stick with the conversion its well worth it and on completion sit back and enjoy that v8 sound! good luck.

Hi, You can get what is know as a homologation certificate from Land Rover for a fee (£25 a few years back) through the main LR contact phone number, I got directed to the right department. I had to get one to prove the age of a ex mod 110 that had been demobbed abroad and was being reimported back to the uk before DVLA would allow me to register it. This should prove the build date of the vehicle if that is all you need the build sheet for.

Is it possible that the Calliper that ended up open to atmosphere has ended up with water in it, or the line? soon as heat is added to the moisture you get expansion thus binding the brakes, this gets them really hot then you get steam from the water, and the brakes lock solid...... may be a thought as you’d only need water expansion in one side to affect all that section of the circuit (both fronts) good luck!

Brought a full stainless system off Rimmer Bros, 13 years and 100,000 km later I had the manifolds fail with a blow just behind a fractured weld (same place on both) but good as gold Rimmers honoured the lifetime warranty and replaced the manifold, so I would whole heartedly recommend purchase again just based on the customer service on the warranty has saved me cost of two new manifolds. I assume they would have a 200 tdi fitment available.

Hi, I had this exact same problem when I converted a 1990 v8 ex mod 110 from solid discs to vented discs on the front. Your 1987 model would likely have been solid discs originally and the vented set up is a later modification/upgrade to your vehicular attempted by the PO. I did this modification with a kit rebuilding my original OEM callipers with spacer pieces in between the the two castings and fitting vented discs. The hubs fouled the rear of the modified callipers by 0.5mm. The axel, hubs and swivels were all original yet I couldn’t sort out the clearance which ever way I assembled it. In the end I took the hubs into work and relived the back of them by about 1.5 mm on a lathe (without impinging:removing material thickness on the rear face of the wheel studs cause that would be v bad!). This solved the interference issue and allowed the vented callipers mod to work for the last ten years plus with no issues whatsoever. (This gave to sort of clearance seen in Westerns photos above) Also worth doing whilst got the callipers in bits if your after reliability is fitting stainless steel pistons (got mine from Zeus engineering) good luck and the mod is worth sticking with, as I managed to warp a solid disc twice but haven’t done so since fitting the vented set up.

Hi, I shopped about and got one from Moss Side Land Rovers (stick the name into face book and they will pop up) in the end as they had a very competitive price and a short lead time, I was sceptical about shipping from Belfast to the Midlands, but in the end there was no drama. The bulkhead they supplied was neatly repaired, a decent price, delivered in one piece and 4 years later I have no issue with it. This is the contact no for them. 07956 090770 Best of luck!

Should fit the lt95 without drama, apart from as stated above swaping the fly wheels over. Some minor points of note, (and I'm assuming your swaping vehical original V8s, if not please correct/forgive me) if your replacing a factory fitted V8 with one from a SD1 you may find the LR engine is fitted with stroberg carbs and the SD1 engine is SUs stick with the SUs as the SD1 engine is likely to be a high compression ratio (CR) engine (9.35:1 ish) and the LR lump a paltry 8.13:1 or figures something like that (i forget) if they are original, therefor the SUs with likely have the correct needles for the engine, and the SD1 high CR v8 should give a little more power too than the original. That is unless the SD1 V8 is a EFI unit..... in which case if you want to keep it EFI good luck plumbing it in (as you need to change fuel pumps/line etc), but you could just put your original carbs and inlet manifold on the SD1 v8 and it would still be fine. CRs are stamped next to the engine numbers if your interested to find out for sure. If your considering running LPG in the future, LPG loves high compression ratios as a added bonus too. best of luck!

If they all share a common earth wire down the back end of the tub may be worth checking? May be worth checking that they havent got a bad comon earth connection on the switches too?

Hi, If all you want is very simple additional security with a isolator switch and removable key the you can place on either the positive to the starter motor or the negative to the chassis. For additional security hide the switch. At work we have twin battery set ups on boats and each positive lead from each battery needs its own switch.....expensive On the works trucks we have twin batteries (one for starting & one to run equipment) with both battery negatives using the same cable to the chassis with a single isolator swich to kill the whole system, cheeper and effective. If you place your switch on the negative and upgrade to a twin battery set up in the future you wont need to place a second swich when you do so. A word of caution if you have accessories such as extra lights etc wired direct to your battery, ensure that they are wired to the none battery side of the switch, this ensures if the fuse blows power can't be routed though them when you try and start therefor potentially damaging them.

Tread carefully with what parts you fit, I did this conversion to a 1990 110 the discs appear to be all the same and its true all the calipers will fit the mounting holes even if they are the smaller piston diameter early 90 size, however I can tell you from experience I brought a kit with spacers to convert the calipers, I then found the now wider calliper fouled the back of the hub and had to machine about 3mm off the rear of the hub on the lathe to allow the hub to rotate cleanly. Not sure if this was down to the kit I used, or if there is a diference in hub thickness on the early vs factory fit vented disc 110s, or maybe the vented calipers have less material to allow clearence. Another worth while "whilst its in bits anyhow upgrade" is Zuse Engineering stainless caliper pistons, expensive, easy to fit but I haven't had to change one since I got them, before every time I did pads I would have at least one piston with the chrome coming off trashing the seal. good luck

Real simple test is to stand on your front bumper or rear door step and jump up and down, if the shocks are decent they will control the spring return rate and the vehical will settle at the right ride height straight away, bad shocks wont damp the spring and will allow the car to carry on bouncing a few times after you stoped jumping. Oil dribbling out the shock pretty much says its end of life and as stated above by Tanuki replace both as a pair on one axel, it may feel fine to drive about sedately, but a knackered shock can give a nasty suprise when hiting something sizable (such as the crater sized potholes our road tax should be paying to repair on the motorways) at speed as the spring will compress and then expand back without control makeing the car bounce, had it happen in a hire car once and found myself rather unpleasently halfway across the next lane. Brand is personal choice but can say Ive had Koni adjustables on all round for 90k kilometers and no complaints so far.

Footman james, they sorted me out a few years back when I was younger and didnt bat an eyelid when i gave a long list of mods for a 110, plus an engine swap 3.5 for a 3.9, they put me on a classic commercial policy and beat everyone else by around £200.

I had this exact fault and chased it for weeks, blamed the battery, starter relay, the alternator testing each in turn and finding no fault till eventually found a faulty starter motor was draining the battery with a sticking solenoid, swaped for a recon unit and haven't had a problem since (last 3years)

Your UJs come in different bearing cap sizes depending on the age of the propshaft. Measure the diameter of the bearing caps and that will tell you which ones to buy. Some are marketed as HD, (basically they have a bigger yoke and bearings) but fit in the same standard prop shaft joints. I think some vehicals may be fitted with these from build if a HD spec. OEM used to be GKN (same company as Hardy Spicer) I brought HD version (as I tow reasonby heavy trailers) rather than LR branded for half the price, changed all four when I had one original fail and found slack in anouther and 35k miles later and they are still good.

See picture, these are the fuse positions in my 1990 ex mod 110, convoy third from the left, bottom row, hope this helps.

Many thanks for the words of wisdom, looks like a perfect excuse to go looking for a disc braked sailsbury then!