Tonks4x4

Lol I saw these at a few shows I have been to recently so thought I would have a punt.... So far mixed results.... 2 bits the tips fell out on contact with steel. The other drill bits I have given some right stick and so far so good. I am just going to keep the naff ones in the box and take them to the next few car shows I go to. Then when they have a large crowd make a song and dance about him exchanging my broken ones

I would suggest removing the sedimenter all together and bypass it using fuel hose and some decent quality jubilee clips.

The seal in the back of the stub axle will stop oil or swivel grease getting to the bearings. The seal between the swivel and the axle case stops oil changing locations between axle oil and cv grease

I would suggest removing the stub axle and replacing the seal in the back of the stub.

Start with 1 colour code first and then work your way through.... Start with all the plain black wires as these are earths and if they are not clean and making a good contact with the body it will cause issues with all the rest of the lighting circuit. Then move on to another colour For example green/purple brake lights.... It has a main feed to the drivers rear. This is then split into 2 possibly 3 if you are wiring towing electrics too.... One to the drivers rear lamp. Then one goes back through the grommet under the rear tub and into the passenger side. If you are fitting towing electrics the other will pass back through the floor to the tow hitch. Follow this same procedure for the rest of the colours and you should be ok

Just seen the new Land Rover advert celebrating 65 years with a few nice clips of the old series vehicles, classic Range Rovers etc. I guess the Range Rover at the end is the new version (405)

Thanks for the reply guys. I spent most of the night searching for the correct terminology of what I require... There is a bunch of names ie Canover suspension Air Ram Suspension Pneumatic Air suspension It does not use hydraulics of any kind. This guy is using the kind of thing I am after.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYQdPoqmxnI&feature=channel&list=UL There are more and more cars now using this kind of setup, for road and off road applications. It is more popular in the US. I have sent quite a few emails as to what I am trying to achieve so I will keep you posted.

Hello chaps, I have been looking at some other suspension options for my current project. I am in the process of rebuilding a Defender 6x6 and have a need to be able to lower the vehicle to the bump stops. And possibly lifting the rear axle. And rather than using Air bags for air suspension I have been searching for pneumatic Air ram systems but have not found a particular supplier that will be able to answer my questions.... I know Simon at X-Eng has toyed around with this kind of setup but have not been able to find the thread on here... If anyone else has had experience I would be keen to hear how you got on. From what I have seen they are damped internally so therefore dont need seperate shock absorbers.

I have fitted the longer arms to my vehicle and have got used to them so much I miss them when getting into any other defender. My next project will have the longer arms and the larger mirror heads too.

200 and 300 difference is engine mounts only. Td5 chassis everything is different.

If your rebuilding them and dont mind the extra cost to ensure you will not have to do them again, it may be worth while fitting Bearmach stainless pistons. And as above the only seal kit that is available that is nice and easy to fit having the steel rings formed correctly in the right shape are genuine kits.

As above really you need to know what exactly you want to replace and what quality of parts you wish to use. Wheel bearings for example... STC4382 Britpart approx £4.25 each but only last a few months STC4392G Timken approx £11.00 each but will last a long long time depending on the use of your vehicle. The price difference is the same for most of the parts required. Also there are upgrades along the way as mentioned above if you have solid discs and your calipers need rebuilding then I would suggest new vented calipers, stainless Bearmach pistons an vented discs. Unless there is twisting, or damaged splines to your half shafts There is not a need to replace. This can also be the case of lots of the axle components. Weigh up your options and formulate a plan as to what you would like, the use of your vehicle and your allowed budget.

Yes it was exactly as the Dorset fire truck. I have found an old pick of it when it was owned by a company called three shires. On there a member of the six wheel apeal has commented to say it was an ex Dorset unit however I have not been able to find any further information or old photos of when it was in service.

There are too many alternative parts to offer them in kit form. What model Landy is it for?

Well in the end I was lucky enough to fall across this for sale.... So I bought it and intend to use it as a rolling project while I build the perfect one