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Koen110 last won the day on October 7 2017

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  1. Hello all, 4 years ago I swapped my 2.5td engine for a 200tdi (disco). I roughly followed this guide: http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguide.htm Coming to the fuel filter housing, I did not have the housing from the 200tdi so I used the present 2.5td fuel filter housing. From the guide: So I blanked the unused ports and connected it all up, we are now 4 years later and no problems at all with this setup. Now recently I heard from someone that the 2.5td uses a lucas cav fuel pump and the 200tdi a bosch one and that you need to use the correct fuel filter housing because of t
  2. I have never seen a Defender that's 100% level.. Engine parts, diffs, gearbox, etc.. are not 100% in the middle of the chassis.
  3. I have a 2.4TDCI defender but it has been sitting still for years. Changed oils etc and already done 1000 miles without issues but did not yet enable airco. Can I check some things first before engaging the airco? Never had a defender with airco before so that part of the car is new for me
  4. My Defender workshop manual states for the rear shock absorbers: Secure shock absorber with lower fixings to axle bracket. Tighten upper and lower fixings to 37Nm (27 lbf/ft). That's why I think it depends on the brand you're fitting, some bushings will be too compressed at 82Nm of torque. In the installation guide of my Fox dampers: Install the shock on the vehicle. The original hardware can be reused if it is in good condition, otherwise replace it with new hardware. Do not tighten mounting bushings with excessive torque. The bushings should be preload-compressed only by
  5. Which brand of shocks? I installed Fox shocks and they advice: tighten lock nut until 5/8” of total stem is showing You will have a hard time finding torque settings, and they differ a lot, don't overtight them or the bushings will be compressed and unable to do their job.
  6. I had the same problem, swapped my 2.5TD for a 200TDI and on first start-up I was like .. why is the whole car rattling like crazy? 😆 I increased the idle rpm's by adjusting the throttle stop but same rattle. I used new Britpart engine mount rubbers during the engine swap and ... replaced them with a Glencoyne set and the rattle was completely gone! I did not drop the engine to replace the rubbers, just untied the nuts and lifted the engine enough to swap them out (know that my gearbox tunnel has some cuts from previous owner to help lifting the bunch..) I thought that the
  7. Looking at the external state of the vehicle my guess is that everything has been resprayed, including roof, wheel arches, front grill and headlamp panels.
  8. After a failed MOT I used a diesel anti-smoke additive and it worked fine 🤫
  9. If you're looking for tyres for both on and off road use, the BGF All Terrain KO2 comes up first in almost all reviews/tests.
  10. Do they even have RHD Defenders? 😁 Yes these Alpine/Pioneer units are expensive and I too doubted a lot but in the end, I wanted Apple CarPlay because it is such a huge benefit. The standard UI / operating system on these units are rubbish, always have and always will + they don't get updated so after a few years the look is so outdated. But then you plug in the iPhone (or Android phone) and BAM, Apple Carply or Android Car, a modern UI that looks super nice and best feature of them all, if they want to add features to for example CarPlay, you just get an new iOS version for your iPhone a
  11. I have the Mud UK sub locker with the Phoenix Gold 10" subwoofer, 3in1 speakers at the back, composet at the front, JBL amplifier and the Alpine ilx-f903d 🤤 Love that Alpine, 9", Apple Carplay, rear view camera on it. The front and back speakers are pretty cheap, they sound good but no decent low so the Phoenix Gold subwoofer supplies the low, it doesn't bang all the doors loose but it just fills the 'room' with the missing low frequencies. It's also very neat tucked away under the cubby box and the cubby box now has the correct height.
  12. No, I mean on the shaft of the speed sensor, to find out if the sensor works or not. What engine do you have? My td4 has the sensor in attachment, I've pointed out the shaft in red, put power drill on that and test.
  13. First things first, take the sensor out of the transfer box, remove the drive gear thingy in your picture and attach a power drill to the shaft of the sensor, if you let it rotate, the rpm's should go up on the dash, if they don't, the problem is not the transfer box, if they do, the problem is in the transfer box.
  14. Ow, my bad, wrong info from my part then..
  15. Hi, The solution is in my previous posts in this topic, it was the 60amp fuse for the glow plugs that was blown because the glow plug rail in the engine bay came in contact with the steel fuel line. So yes the glow plug light in the dash comes on when you turn the ignition key, but the glow plugs don't get any juice because the fuse is blown! Hence the difficult start and smoke.. I've secured the glow plug rail in the engine bay with a strap so it cannot come in contact with the steel fuel line anymore and replaced the 60amp fuse, it started a lot better! Still had some smoke but after a
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