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Koen110

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Koen110 last won the day on October 7 2017

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About Koen110

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  1. Installed these nice one piece half shafts today, they are the ones that LR supplied from 2016, backwards compatible. Did a small drive, big clunk in the back is gone! Still not 100% smooth but need to replace the trailing arm bushes because they are shot and hey, it’s Defender, not a Range Rover!
  2. I ordered some OEM bushes for the trailing arms, they need to be replaced. Waiting for those parts, I checked what has been advised here, the half shafts.. I jacked up the rear axle, put it in first gear, no hand brake and there is about 1/8 rotational play on the rear prop shaft. After some searching, looks like I'm not the only one with 1/8 rotational play and it should be OK (although I think it's too much). I drained the rear diff, oil level was good (thank god) and removed the flange and half shaft on one side, same side as the picture above and .. they look good, could be brand new! Dammit! Could it be diff or transfer box? I went on removing the flange and half shaft on the other side and boom, that looks bad, almost razor blades! So yeah, that's got to be replaced. Looks like someone replaced one side and then stopped 😮 What's the general opinion on those half shafts with integral flanges? I can't see any downsides? It should stop the wear for good? Part number is LR072976 but that's for the 2016 Defender but I guess backwards compatible with 2008 puma?
  3. I did a 2.5td (19j) to disco 200tdi (turbo hanging low) conversion a few years back, had similar problems and much more since mine was LHD. I've put the air filter on the airco mounting (since the steering box is on the left side for me, were normally the housing goes, made mounting myself) and for the intercooler air hoses, I used steel pipes to join 2 hoses together. I had the hoses from the 19j lying around so used them too.
  4. I think it won't be a bad idea to just replace the bushes. I've read good and bad stories about polybushes and most people tend to stay with OEM. This kit should do I guess? -> https://www.paddockspares.com/defsusrroe-rear-oe-bush-kit.html Can you replace these bushes with a hammer or do you need special tools like a press? I will replace the A frame ball joint as well. To make it an easier job, I'm leaning towards a full kit instead of only the joint. Britpart -> https://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html or Terrafirma -> http://www.terrafirma4x4store.co.uk/TF1129_A_FRAME_BALL_JOINT ?
  5. Thank you for all the tips, much appreciated! I finally found the time to do some testing. First of all, the easy part, like Tanuki said, I checked the nuts holding the rear prop to the brake drum and yes indeed, they were loose! Tightened them back up and went for a test drive. Result is a bit better, but the clunks are still there, but a small improvement! Next up, a tip from Gazzar. I shut down the engine, jacked up one rear wheel, handbrake off, put in first gear and rotate wheel back and forth.. Honestly I'm not sure what's supposed to be the outcome? I filmed it -> I have no idea if this is good or bad or ?? Or should I've left the handbrake on? Next up, Snagger, I took off the rear wheel and pried the plastic cap off, picture in attachment. It's not rusty or dry, it's oily 😛 But it's not leaking, the plastic cap only has a drop of oil and I've never seen a leak from there. But, how can I determine play? It looks fine.. Or should I take it out completely? While I was underneat and rocking a few stuff back and forth, I've found something that made a clunk noise when rocking, see attachment. I could torque it up and the noise was gone when I've rocked it back and fort. Went for a test drive and again, it's better, smoother, but still there.. So I'm afraid it will be a bit of everything Just to be clear, for example, I'm on the road, engine running, standing still, cluth fully pressed, first gear, when I release the clutch slowly, no clunk, drives away smooth, if I let the clutch go a bit faster, I get that rear clunk. It may be my driving, but I'm pretty sure you don't always need to let the clutch go that slow. My 30 year old military 110 drives smoother..
  6. I have a 200tdi and a 2.4tdci, I also put a lot of work in sound proofing the 200TDI but it will never be the same as the TDCI, which is just less noisy. I've found the steering to be the same, my 200tdi is as precise as the 2.4tdci. In the end, they are both Defenders and besides engine & gearbox, not much has changed. I like driving both, but neither of them are comfort vehicles and never will be.. If the wife doesn't like it, you can't do much about it.
  7. My 2007 - 2.4TDCI puma 110 will throw a clunk/bang upon gear change when accelerating. If I let the clutch go very slow, there is no clunk, everything is smooth, but if I let the clutch go at a normal pace, I get a clunk which comes from the back. After searching on Google, I think it might be 2 things, drivetrain related or A frame ball joint/bushes. Drivetrain, it could be the propshaft, diff or half shaft spline wear. To find out if it's drivetrain related or A frame related, is it a good idea to remove the rear propshaft and drive around without it? If the clunk is gone, it would be drivetrain? If the clunk is still present, it's A frame related?
  8. Thank you, the Wipac ones do look what I need and thanks for the link to the LED headlights, I had no idea that they were already an option in 2007.. Our MOT stated that I cannot have LED headlights in my Puma '07 because LED was not a factory option back then 😕
  9. I bought a Puma 2.4TDCI (2007) which I'm currently rebuilding. It has non-standard LED headlights which do look good and give a lot of light but will not pass MOT here in Belgium since LED headlights were only an option starting from the 2.2 TDCI model. I'm looking for headlights that were standard, or an official LR option in 2007. I'm looking for the complete set, not just the bulb. Does somebody have the part number? Or does the puma use the same old yellow glow types?
  10. Thanks for the help guy's, looks like I'm missing all the extra bits (relay, control switches, etc..) so I'm just gonna remove it all.
  11. I'm 'restoring' a puma 2.4TDCI that has been used hard, and while cleaning the seats, I've found something I can't explain. There is no heated seat switch or anything, but the front driver seat (only the driver seat) has cables coming out of it. If I search for puma heated seats on Google, I get different pictures / cables than mine so not sure what to think.. Also not sure how to connect all of this? Looks dodgy to me.. Anyone seen this before?
  12. Are you sure it's leaking gearbox oil? Or transfer box oil?
  13. I have a Defender 110 2.4TDCI Puma which is all white. I'm in the process of giving it the 'adventure edition' look: I've removed the hood, roof & back door. I'm not sure if I would do the painting myself or not. I've found that the hood, roof & back door should be 'Santorini Black', right? I've painted my ex-mod last year and super happy with the result! But that paint was satin, so maybe easier than Santorini Black? That's a metallic high gloss paint I assume? I'm dropping by the paint shop tomorrow, but maybe somebody here already did the same +/- ?
  14. Found it! Had to push them up a bit more 😉
  15. I can’t believe I’m creating a topic for this, but I’m stuck.. Defender puma 2.4TDCI In order to replace the glow plugs, I need to disconnect the camshaft position sensor.. but can’t get it loose! See attachment.. those 2 lips, I’ve pushed them down, pushed them up... the connector does not move.. How can I disconnect this one? ☺️
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