Landy7

21L is a Discovery 300TDI engine with EGR. 300TDI's also had Garret turbo's. ERR4802G - Garrett 300TDI Turbocharger (johncraddockltd.co.uk) The 200TDI & 300TDI turbo's are interchangeable and to my knowledge same spec.

Good idea about the rpm's, the day the battery boiled was an off-road day where I spent lot's of time in low range revving the engine on some steep climbs, over and over again.

Thanks, I ordered a voltage meter that I can permanently connect to the battery to have a good eye on what's going one. Like you said, I want it to be safe, and the boiling battery incident was a bit of a scare, we all know where the batteries are installed in a Defender, we don't want them to blow up.. On the next drive, I will carefully look at all the readings I can get.

Thanks, the second battery is indeed fine, even after a 3 hour drive. I just checked the voltage on that battery, 12.8v in resting state (not been driving for a couple of days), so it appears all ok and maybe the first battery died on it's own and not due to the regulator. The regulator is a new one from Hitachi. I will order a voltmeter that I can connect permanently but I still struggle with how I should interpret the readings. +/- 11v battery is empty. Below 12v battery is 50%. >12.6 battery is full. When charging, it will be between 13.5v and 14.8v, but how can you know when it's full and the regulator should stop charging the battery? Overcharging is when it's producing more then 15v?

I had some troubles in the past with the alternator not charging the batteries (I have 2, one for winch and one for all the rest, both are separated by a charging splitter). I changed the regulator but the problem was the excite wire, that had bad connection. I fixed the excite wire and went on a big trip. After a drive all day, I shut down the engine and hear a sissing sound from where the batteries are. The main battery was boiling.. How can this happen? I read online that car batteries boil when they are overcharged. How can they overcharge? By having a bad regulator? I swapped out the main battery and connected the winch battery (thank god for 2 batteries). I could drive home (3h) perfectly and upon arrival the battery was cold so I assume the regulator is fine? Any tips on having a tool connected to the battery to continuously have information on charging levels etc? How can I know if a battery is overcharging? If it's charging it could read about 14v but how can you know when this needs to drop to for example 12.8v?

The peacock in the back? He looks suspicious 😁

This! I did the same conversion and bought Britpart engine mounts, jesus christ, the whole body was shaking!! On first start-up after months of rebuilding I was horrified, did I make a bad choice with the 200tdi? What a trembling monster! Wasn't fun to drive at all. After some advice I bought the Glencoyne engine mounts and you know, there are some moments in life you never forget, well that first start-up after the Glencoyne mounts is a moment you never forget, no trembling whatsoever!

I've owned 2.5TD, 200TDI, TD5 & 2.4 Puma. The 2.4 (and from what I read also the 2.2) are not the best engines when it comes to reliability, a td5 will outlive a 2.4 big time. But, when it comes to driving comfort, a 2.4 is more ideal as a daily driver. The interior is more refined and the 6-six speed gearbox let's you cruise at high speeds. Just looking at the dash makes it feel like a more modern vehicle. But don't expect a big difference, in the end they are all noisy uncomfortable vehicles I suggest you do a test drive with a 2.4 and a td5 to feel the difference and to decide if the extra comfort of the 2.4 is worth it.

Ford 2.2TDCI (122bhp) -> Ford 2.3 Ecoboost (305bhp) JE Motorworks converts Land Rover Defender to Ford Ecoboost power | Autocar

I've spent some money on springs and shocks for my 110 van and I'm super happy with it, would certainly do it again. Shocks -> Fox Performance +2" all the way round Springs front -> OME 2767 Springs back -> OME 2752 Perfect stance and "good" comfort. Front springs are for medium load since I have a winch installed and spare wheel on the bonnet. Rear springs are for "no load" since I almost never carry anything heavy in the back so springs can be softer.

No video this time but she purrs like a kitten! I've put the fuel line in a jerry can with fresh fuel, pumped the lift pump a few times, cranked the key and off she went!

Thanks guys! Looking forward. Some progress, wiring check, 24V check, engine free check, starter check, oil pressure check Let's add some fuel, yes? IMG_1258.mp4 IMG_1259.mp4

The second one is also home! Being it in a worse condition than the first one but hey, it's a donor car for a reason. Not on the pictures are the baskets full of parts, looks to be complete. Also good for me to learn these vehicles and engines, I can inspect and try some things on the donor car first. I should get some detailed pictures of the engines here, not sure if it's standard but all components like distributor and wiring are waterproofed. You can see an example in these pictures of the engine, you can see the waterproofed wiring from the alternator.

This one is 100% original, previous owner bought it directly from the Belgian army, didn't change a thing, drove it for a few years until the clutch cylinder went out and put it away for 24 years. He did however in those 24 years started it up a few times to move it bit but that's about it. My plan is to just revive this old girl and make it my summer convertible I could turn the engine by hand so that's good. I'm going to check the engine first, do the necessary fixes, fix the clutch, fix the brakes (all solid now) and that's about it I think, I like the platina so not sure if I should repaint her or not. Best part, tonight I'm going to get the second one. Previous owner had 2 of them and it was a package deal, but the second one was the 'parts one', it has a broken engine + broken clutch, bits missing and no papers, but I might need some parts of it anyway.

Yes, in the back even 4!

Thanks for the tips! Will certainly do that this week. Some pictures, dust included but after a first wash she looks incredible! Oh yes 4x2, so no low range, no transfer box, no front diff, just a tube as an axle

Can't believe I'm posting this but after 10Y in the 'Defender forum', as from tomorrow, I will be joining the 'Series forum' 😇 I've bought myself a Land Rover Series 3 88inch 2.25 petrol, 1972, 4x2 ex Belgium army. It's been sitting still in a barn for 20Y. It's possible that the previous owner started the engine up a few times in those 20Y but not certain. It's my first petrol project! Only did diesel ones in the past. I'm going to tow it home tonight but there is always a tomorrow, what should I check before cranking the engine a first time? I'm thinking about: - Fuel tank, probably needs cleaning, try with jerrycan fresh petrol first - Replace all filters - Replace oil - New batteries (24v) - Check ignition feed - New spark plugs - Coolant - Turn it by hand first to see if it's locked up - ?

Oh ok, looks indeed different between defender spec 200tdi and disco spec 200tdi, the alternator is fixed differently.

Yes, but I'm not sure what you mean with "adjuster link to block attachment", here's a picture of my alternator, be aware it's a 200tdi from a disco. You mean the red arrow? That's a fixed part on mine. I've also measured the spacer I've found and its 4cm long en 2.5cm thick so it's bigger and longer then your ERC7974.

OP is back Not certain I still have the part but I don't think it's from my vehicle after all, I will check the alternator adjuster link on the verhicle later today to see if it's still there. They sure do look the same and it's a very good guess so thank you everyone.

Exactly, I had a pretty nasty clunk coming from the back, changed the rear half shafts and was convinced it would solve the clunking because they were pretty worn but the clunk was still there! Removed the a frame ball joint, but thought it would not make a difference because it didn't looked worn or had any play but the clunk was completely gone after replacing. Like Maverik said, it's quite impossible to test the ball joint after removal, you need so much force to just make it move a little. If it's installed, you could use a pry bar to test and find any play, but still then it's pretty challenging.

It all depends on who did the rebuild, I don't know the company or person who did it. It appears they just resprayed it and left the rotting (bubbling) unhandled. But to be honest, it's a Defender, not a Range Rover, a few bubbles won't hold me from seeing it live and considering a buy. I know it's a long trip but you really have to inspect the vehicle live because these pictures just show a shiny resprayed washed vehicle.

Now that I've got your attention.. For me it really is a potential UFO! Read on. Land Rover 110 - 1988 - 200TDI - LHD Was driving about 50km/h when I hit a pothole and the steering wheel started to shock heavily from left to right (and vice versa) and the car of course also, had trouble to keep it on the road, stopped immediately on the side of the road. Inspected the steering, wheels, axle, suspension, .. nothing wrong to see. Did a small test drive and drove normal like nothing happened.. Went back to the pothole to check and found a piece that I cannot identify (see pictures in attachment). Is this something from my car or is it something that was lying on the streets and catapulted into my steering setup which caused the heavy shocking? Hence the Unidentified Flying Object. I've never seen it before so I'm guessing it's not from my vehicle but wanted to check for sure with you guy's.. Size is about 4cm to 2,5cm.

Well yes it can, but don't expect a Range Rover ! I changed from standard shocks to Fox Performance shocks and the difference surely is noticeable! Much smoother ride. But it's hard to make the decision on what brand, I saw a lot of positive reviews on the Fox shocks and a friendly garage was also over the moon about them and installs them standard on all Defenders so went for those and can't complain. I saw some less positive reviews on the Bilsteins though .. OME seems to be getting positive reviews also, example this thread, but never had the change to test hem.

I have a 200tdi and last year added a puma to the garage for more comfort driving. I can tell you that the difference is not that huge, it's still a Defender.. Yes it's a bit more quite and the 6th gear makes it less noisy on the highway but it's not like you're suddenly driving a Range Rover. I honestly enjoyed driving the 200tdi more so I sold the puma again. But there are a lot of things you can do to improve comfort, like mentioned in the post above me. I added the moulded matting from Wright Off-Road (wrightoffroad.com) (Exmoor sells them too but they are the same and if you order directly from Wright you can get a discount) and that decreased transmission noise in the cabine for sure. Also used Glencoyne engine mounts which reduced engine vibration to the chassis. I'm now replacing the suspension with Fox Shocks & OME springs, that transformed the ride on my puma so I expect the same for my 200tdi. The puma on stock suspension drove exactly the same as my 200tdi on stock suspension. So yes, a puma is a little more quite and adds a little comfort but it really isn't that huge of a difference, so don't be disappointed when you buy one.