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AgedMechanic

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    Hailsham, E. Sussex

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  1. Thanks for your replies folks, you've pretty much confirmed what I was thinking although when I asked my mechanic he didn't raise any objection to the vehicle having been modified. It rather looks like I'm going to be looking for a siginificant drop in the price of this one or an unmodified TD5 auto motor. All in all it may be easier to look at a knee replacement instead which offers more than a vehicle with no clutch pedal! Again, thanks to you all.
  2. Thanks to you all, vouv'e pretty much confirmed what I thought which seemd to be contradicted by the guy at my garage. I think I'm going to be looking for a significant price reduction or a vehicle that hasn't been modified (or I suppose I could scrap my manual and rob the bit off of that).

    Thanks again.

  3. Hi, can anybody advise if there are any problems likely with the "new" MOT emissions requirements resulting from the removal of the EGR valve and its associated clutter? I'm asking as I need to switch to an auto box due to advancing arthritus in my left knee and don't want to be confronted with the cost of reinstating the EGR for it's next MOT. Many thanks for your help.
  4. A web search seems to suggest 1/8-27 NPT but I can't guarantee it. Check the actual model you have here https://www.vdo-gauges.com/instruments-displays-and-clusters.html. Dave
  5. Just for the sake of completeness the following page gives the boiling point of water at various pressures. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html So at 1 bar as per the manual boiling point of water is approx 120o C.
  6. The rad pressure cap could be as high as 1 bar (1 kg per sq cm or 15psi in old money) so the cooling system is really a pressure cooker which is why it boils as soon as you release the cap and equally why the hoses are hard. My 200tdi does similar things to yours but generaly only with a loaded trailer on the back. Best of luck. David
  7. Hi, Thanks for the response to my query and I'm sorry for the delay in replying. It seems that there is a significant disparity between the parts manuals and the workshop manual to the extent that I'm begining to think that far from being a bible the workshop manual can only be described as a guide. The further I'm going with this job the more errors I'm coming across - either that or it's written in a version of english that is new to me! Thanks again for the info.
  8. Sorry if this post isn't in the right place but I'm a new to this game. I have a problem that is causing me more than a little confusion and I'm hoping that you kind people will be able to assist by either telling me I'm worrying about nothing or suggesting what I should do to fix it. I'm having a little trouble sorting out the rear hubs on my 1986 110 pickup, the brake back plate has the oil drain hole but there is no oil catcher fitted and the stub axle doesn't have the milled slot which should be there according to the workshop manual. Taken all round the hubs look to be off a 90 rather than a 110. I'm not sure if the lack of the oil catcher matters that much apart from losing some extra support for the brake back plate although, if present, a catcher may have significant reduced the oil in one of the brake drums which was due in part to an incorrectly positioned inner oil seal coupled with badly adjusted wheel bearings. I don't know if any of the following is significant but to complete the story the 110 has a Salisbury back axle (the only identification I can find on that is C08HA-004-027 which is cast in to the diff housing) and it's best described as a "bitsa" as in bits off this and bits off that so although it's 1986 registration the VIN plate doesn't agree with that date and other details don't agree with either the registration or the VIN.
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