Jump to content

green110

Settled In
  • Posts

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by green110

  1. I'd try a few pallet companies. Stan Robinson brought two "pallets" from Glasgow to West Dorset for me recently that weighed 1.5t each. In reality it was two huge lumps of steel with some bits of wood nailed round them so they could be picked up with a forklift. Hemisphere Freight have moved some big bits of stuff -most recently 5t from Dorset to Suffolk for £400. Doble Express are good and cheap but I think only run from Somerset to London and back. Sorry I haven't got phone numbers to hand but they all have websites. If it can be picked up with a forklift most truck drivers don't care what it is. Is it on a timber "pallet" of some sort, even if it is just some old scaff planks nailed together? Another thought - there is a company called Dickinsons who run a lot of heavy plant from the north down to Southampton Docks. They might have space on a trailer for your package. Hiring a truck up north to load it, drive all the way to you then drive back empty will be very expensive - would be cheaper but duller to drive up with an Ifor Williams. Good luck with it. Edited to add that I see everything I have said is useless as they don't have a forklift - sorry.
  2. Old conveyor belt? Sand/gravel pits, recycling yards etc usually have loads of it lying around and are only too pleased to give it away.
  3. My 1998 300 Tdi 110 is on 265 Mud Terrains and weighs about 2.7t. I filled up at Leicester Forest last week, and drove M69-M6-M42-M5 to Bridgewater and filled up again. I was lucky with traffic and spent as much time as possible hiding behind large lorries (closer than I normally drive, but obviously not stupidly close). The combination of driving at a steady 56mph and slipstreaming meant that I got 39 mpg. I estimate that this is nearly a 50% improvement over driving at 70 mph+, so I now intend to trundle along in the slow lane whenever time permits! (I spent £700 on fuel last month so every little helps). Gus
  4. http://www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/ma...gs/prod0058.php Rocol Sapphire Aqua 2. Most engineering suppliers seem to deal with Rocol; they make sealants, adhesives etc. I'd be very wary of grease identified with a marker pen! Gus
  5. http://www.stephenslube.co.uk/wanner_lubrication.asp lists Wanner grease guns (I haven't got one). I like the trigger guns (as opposed to side lever) as you can then hold the fitting onto the grease nipple with one hand and pump grease with the other. Flexible pipes are good and I'm a firm believer in changing the quick coupling on the end at regular intervals. If greasing is a clean easy job it gets done! As an aside some cartridges are better than others; some have plastic ends that break instead of tearing off cleanly (don't use Texaco tubes) and some seem to come factory fitted with air pockets. Gus
  6. US built John Deeres (and some Cat stuff) use UNC threads. Your local John Deere dealer might be able to help. The problem is that you need a helpful parts man, not just someone who looks at a computer all day and just says "part number?". Gus
  7. I've got this on my 110 at the moment. In my experience, UJ's tend to squeak before they get that bad. The gearbox output shaft has a distinct metallic clack that can be heard but not really felt. A really good thump is most likely to be the rear axle A frame - there is quite a heavy component jumping about! Drive flanges are well worth checking anyway - I changed mine after they had failed. I rebushed the A frame with cheap bushes a while ago and I'm confident they have failed again - mainly because I can change lanes just by lifting off or accelerating! Yes I have a Land Rover that suffers from torque steer. Gus
  8. I've got everything insured with the NFU. I think it helps if they either have all your business (house, vehicles etc) or if you can get referred to them by someone who does a lot with them - they seem to be expensive if you just ring up out of the blue for a price (they gave my sister a very good price - the cheapest we could find - on a Clio 1 week after she passed her test, but only when I rang and pointed out the family connection!). Gus
  9. Sorry for the irrelevance of the information that follows. On a big (18 litre) Caterpillar engine the answer to "how much fuel is returned) is lots, probably up to ten times what the engine uses. I ran one off a 10 litre can the other day (don't ask - it was a long day and everybody ended up smelling of diesel) and it ran for less than a minute at tickover. The fuel is used to cool the ECU and then passes through a cooler on the way back to the tank. I don't really know why there is a cooler fitted as the ECU monitors the fuel temp and I would have thought could compensate for the change in volume as it warms up. Most machines using this engine would hold 1000 litres or so which would absorb a lot of heat. It may just be typical Cat overengineering. Gus
  10. I think I am right in saying that tyre sizes and towing height are only incidentally connected. Particularly for double axle trailers it is important to get the hitch height right; the conventional advice is to use an adjustable hitch (Dixon Bate). I've got one of these on the back of my 110 but I must admit I have never adjusted it (although I'm soon going to have to do something about the wear in it - the shunting and clunking is starting to get annoying). I am however boringly particular about getting the load in the right place and then strapping it down really well. Gus
  11. I meant to add - good luck with security. Mine is insured with the NFU. I have a motorcycle type security chain that I lock it to something solid like a shed or a tractor with. One day I found my generator welder had been unstrapped and tipped off the side, but the chain had stopped the thieving scum from taking the trailer. (The ironic thing is that the welder is worth much more than the trailer). My wife's Ifor horsebox, however, had a wheelclamp on it but still got stolen. I found the wheelclamp intact in the nettles; it was completely undamaged. I assume that it wasn't set tight enough and by letting the air out of the tyre they managed to get it over the rim. So in short I recomend a chain and padlock! Gus
  12. Whilst I'd also agree that you can't go wrong with an Ifor, I have got a 16' Meredith and Eyre which I am really pleased with. www.meredithandeyre.co.uk It is very similar to an Ifor. It is on rubber suspension instead of leaf springs (it rides softer when unladen), the sides and ramps are heavier and the ramps are much easier to get out. I've pulled mine thousands of miles with all sorts of weights on it and never had a problem. I picked mine up from the factory (it was cheaper that way) and they couldn't have been more helpful. Gus
  13. About the only Snap On tool I have that I don't like is the AWP 100 tongue and groove adjustable joint pliers. The teeth have gone flat and the joint slips crushing fingers when pressure is applied. So I advise not buying Snap On. Gus
  14. I use Caterpillar battery switches. part no 7N0718. I haven't got a price to hand but I seem to recall they are about £35. I know this isn't cheap but they will cope with the starter current for a 600 hp diesel, are built to survive life on a bull dozer and have a removable key. Gus
  15. Yes I had numerous sets of them. Couldn't hear the engine over 40mph (and I had a Perkins 4.236 at the time), couldn't go round a wet roundabout at more than 15 mph, only lasted 15 000 miles but they did grip. I liked the fact that they were directional too - it appealed to the forward or die mentality. Has anyone done any comparisons against (say) BFG Mud Terrains for grip? Gus
  16. What is the consensus on what eye protection to wear for plasma cutting? I have been recomended everything from sunglasses to welding mask. I understand that the plasma stream is bright but doesn't emit UV. Gus
  17. I regularly do Northampton - Basingstoke if anyone can get it to N/hampton Gus
  18. BOC if you've got a tools and equipment place locally (not just a gas depot) Gus
  19. I know from bitter experience that testing a starter on the floor is pretty meaningless. Even a proper test rig cannot load a starter like a diesel on a cold morning (having trouble with a Perkins engine driving 3 hydraulic pumps at the moment. Won't start, fit a new starter and it starts fine, but the old starter bench tests ok at the diesel electrics place. It is because this application needs 100% starter performance, whereas the bench test only shows 60% performance). If you are confident that the battery and cables are ok, I'd fit a new starter, especially as you have the old one off already. I find a clamp meter very useful in this situation. If you measure voltage drop across the battery it is difficult to know whether it is because the battery is flat or because the starter is drawing a huge current. A clamp meter resolves this by measuring the current. Gus
  20. I had one in a 110 Hicap a few years ago. I replaced a 2.25 petrol with it in about 1993, when the 200 Tdi was still relatively new and a lot of money. Broke the first gearbox (LT77) in a matter of days, then started driving sensibly and the 2nd one lasted 40 000 miles. The torque was phenomonal but so was the noise and the weight. I had RR heavy duty +2" rear springs on the front so the caster angle was all wrong too. At the time I thought it was great but I wouldn't want to drive it now. It was very reliable though - once it was started. I had twin tractor batteries, 70mm cable, thermostart and a lucky rabbit foot but I always parked on a hill if I could. Gus
  21. I went through all this with a friend's Discovery. First thing I told him to do was change the damper, which he did for a Britpart one - made no difference. Then we tightened the swivels, checked all the bushes, wheel bearings, track rod ends - everything. Still no better. Finally we put a genuine damper on, and it cured it. Gus
  22. I'd be really interested in any info on tacho requirements - even more interested in any exemptions. I regularly tow a trailer with my 110 for work without a tacho. If you have a tacho the 48 hour max working week has to be complied with - even if you only drive for 1 hour (as I understand it). Getting definite answers from VOSA or DOT in writing is virtually impossible in my experience. Gus
  23. I got a set of press tools made with appropriate OD and a step on the driving face so it presses on the outside only. Also a small spigot that engages in the inner bore to keep everything tight and aligned. Then when it came to rebushing I didn't have time to take it all to a press so I put the suspension link on a solid piece of steel, inserted the press tool and gave it a good smack with a sledgehammer - surprisingly it worked really well. worked equally well for refitting. Gus
  24. An R clip the right size and a pair of Mole grips works really well. Gus
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy