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benjwom23

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About benjwom23

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    Sheffield

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  1. benjwom23

    Rebuilt Defender value

    Thanks for the replies guys. Totally agree that it wont be for everyone. My intention is for it to be a bit more modern (not rust coloured, warmer, less constant mist, try to be able to hold a conversation above 50mph, hopefully be a little less wet when it rains etc) while still looking like a Defender. I originally started out to just replace the chassis and reassemble but the usual happened and everything turned out to be a complete mess and not worth reassembling. I was / am intending on a build blog but a) I never seem to get any time to work on the car never mind do a build blog, b) I work on a computer all day so try to avoid them as much as I can, c) I am lazy and d) I keep forgetting to take pictures. I too am interested in how I am going to go about building the dashboard. It is a job I have been putting off for far too long. I am pretty good with a spanner, general fabrication, electronics, hitting things with hammers but less so with the interior subtleties. I WILL (try) to take some photos and put a build blog together. Unless it turns out to be terrible, in which case I wont! As for not being road legal: it has a chassis built to the original spec (albeit with 300Tdi engine mounts), original suspension setup and original steering components, so 9 points. I know there is an argument that the DVLA 'radically altered vehicles' definition really doesn't work for Land Rovers on a chassis. For example the 300Tdi and R380 were in the car when I bought it 12 years ago, I replaced the front axle about 8 years ago as it was in poor condition (rot / mechanically poor), and replaced the rear axle during this rebuild for the same reasons. Finding standard age related parts for a 4C in decent condition is pretty difficult. I guess it is going to be much the same for many of the Land rovers on the road.
  2. benjwom23

    Rebuilt Defender value

    I know it is almost impossible to answer but I am after a rough valuation for a rebuilt 90. The insurance need a valuation for the policy: 1986 LR 90 on a galv 300Tdi chassis, 300Tdi (immaculate, 90,000 miles), R380. rebuilt bulkhead (totally rebuilt, ALL rust removed). Resprayed Grey with orange underneath (chassis, axles, engine parts - easier to see oil leaks!) Rebuilt axles (300Tdi), new alloys (16 inch Defender), twin fuel tank (both new), new doors x3 (original style lift up handle on front), heated everything: windscreen, rear screen, mirrors, seats, brand new Masai sliding rear windows, soundproofed throughout, LaSalle interior (full roof panels, all rear windows) re-covered in new scrim fabric, new re-covered door cards, new Land Rover rubber matting, sound proofing system from Exmoor trim (cant remember the guys name), new Mantec wheel carrier, tubular bumpers front and rear, 9500lb winch front, new lighting including LED headlights, spots, roof lights, work lights, door handle lighting, mirror puddle lighting, 4 interior lights, footwell lighting, interior door lighting, leather electric seats, twin batteries, custom dashboard. Plus loads more, you get the idea. I am trying to go for Range Rover luxury in my Defender! I am still working on the interior and wiring loom but hoping to be finished by spring. I know the non standard nature wont appeal to everybody but I have no intention of selling it anyway so I am building it purely as I want it. As I said, I am just hoping for a rough idea to give to the insurer. Thank you!
  3. benjwom23

    Defender Wings removal

    That makes sense, I have mine going into various 'T's. This seems much neater.
  4. benjwom23

    Defender Wings removal

    What is the little pneumatic coupling mounted to the bulkhead directly behind the turbo?
  5. benjwom23

    Defender Wings removal

    I painted mine in Orange mainly from a 'where is that oil coming from?' perspective. Has the added advantage of rustproofing and looking pretty though.
  6. benjwom23

    R380 clutch wont disengage

    So gearbox refitted, haven't touched the slave or master cylinder except for obviously attaching it to the bellhousing. Clutch disengaged perfectly. Still non the wiser but much happier.
  7. benjwom23

    300TDi Non Starter After Fuel Filter Change

    I have just fitted new fuel lines, injector pipes and filter (so no fuel in the system). Didn't prime, just turned it on the starter for a few seconds and away it went. Should that not happen?
  8. benjwom23

    Swing Away Spare Wheel Carrier of choice?

    I got a brand new Mantec Land Rover branded carrier from the UK MOD auction on bidspotter for about £100 Inc vat. Worth keeping an eye out if you are able to collect from Colsterworth near Grantham.
  9. benjwom23

    R380 clutch wont disengage

    I didn't as the M/C / pedal box assembly is a new take off from a Defender which had an Auto conversion straight from factory. I assumed, possibly incorrectly that it would already be setup. I will check this now though. It is a 'normal' long bellhousing coupled with a 300Tdi
  10. benjwom23

    R380 clutch wont disengage

    I didn't replace the Spigot bush, it was in tight, had the correct diameter and a smooth surface. I will order 1 (or 2) and get it replaced If you think it should be. The friction plate springs all moved out seemingly fine when I removed the plate, and back in when I put the plate on so I can only assume that they are fine. I'm pretty certain the push rod is fine, having driven 100,000 miles or so with it! I am hoping that the (albeit small) mating of the friction plate and flywheel was enough to prevent it from engaging gears. If I get time to reassemble tonight I will hopefully find out
  11. benjwom23

    Starting woes

    If your battery is good (and charged) then it will be a bad connection or corroded earth. Disconnect everything, clean up rust, and loads of copper grease when you reassemble.
  12. benjwom23

    R380 clutch wont disengage

    Yup. Long evening. I only went in to drive it out and back in again. Thanks, I was considering shimming out the release bearing to see if it fixed it. The bearing is FTC5200 as far as I can see which is listed as Tdi, Td5 and V8 (I will see if it has anything stamped on it later) I get the feeling that this gearbox is going to be on and off quite a few times yet...
  13. benjwom23

    A switch is a switch is a switch...

    The Hazard switch really needs to be a LR Hazard switch, as Western said it is much more than an 'On / Off' switch. The interior light switch depends which switch it is: If it controls interior lights and dashboard lights it needs to be a 'Center Off' type switch. The LR switch has 4 terminals, I guess 2 of them are earths but I would go with a DPDT switch to separate the 2 circuits anyway. The rear screen heater switch is 'On / Off' but there may be some timer circuitry. As Smego said, you can bypass this and swap it for a normal 30A automotive relay. As with any electrics, make sure the wire and switches are appropriately rated, everything is correctly insulated and protected by appropriate fuses or fire tends to occur.
  14. benjwom23

    R380 clutch wont disengage

    So I thought I had got to the point in my slow rebuild process where I was ready to drive it out of the garage for the first time under its own steam. I pressed the clutch, it felt normal. Tried to put it into gear, the clutch wouldn't disengage. Bled the clutch again, exactly the same. Checked the slave cylinder (new maybe 10k miles ago), that move fine with no leaks. As far as I am aware, since I have owned it, my Defender has never had the little clip to hold the slave push rod onto the release fork (FRC3327, I just ordered one) so I thought maybe the push rod was missing the 'hole' in the fork. I smeared it in red rubber grease, tried it again and it has transferred grease it into the hole in the fork but there is no red trail elsewhere. So I have taken the gearbox off. Flywheel had some surface rust, it hasn't moved since I fitted the clutch maybe 2 years ago(!). On removing the pressure plate, the friction plate was stuck to the flywheel so I thought I might have found the problem, but then a gentle tap freed it off. I did notice evidence that the release bearing has touched the 'fingers' on the pressure plate. I don't want to put the gearbox back in until the little clip has arrived so in the meantime have I missed anything really obvious? It has had a new AP clutch, new HD release fork and also a new master cylinder and pedal assembly (my old pedal was the old type which wouldn't accept the assist spring). Whatever length the push rod in the slave cylinder is, it is the one which used to operate this car's clutch fine. I am assuming the new master cylinder pushes the same amount of fluid as the old one? (new one is from a Puma, old one is probably the original NA Diesel one). I don't want to have to put the old one back on to find it makes no difference! The Defender is a 300Tdi with R380. Thanks!
  15. benjwom23

    Another R380 Defender stuck in gear

    I second that. I had the same symptoms occur in a car park 300 miles from home. Limped it to a local garage (I was stuck in 2nd so that was a slow journey) who wanted £600 to 'have a look' as they 'had to take the gearbox out'. Had road rescue recover it back home and I seem to recall it took about 30 minutes, 1 screwdriver, 1 spanner and 1 allen key. I didn't have to lower the box, I just removed the gearbox tunnel cover and gearbox selector housing. Good luck!
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