benjwom23

Thanks Mike, I will have a play with it this evening. Thinking about it the striker did seem a little high last time I fitted it (it has been on and off about 100 times already!). I had to rebuild the doors from new steel as only the top half was salvageable. I have fitted new skins so they look great and are all seam sealed / filled with dinitrol but it has taken over a day so far to get one door to line up in all dimensions and it still needs bending out a little at the bottom (but my frame is really bl**dy strong and I'm struggling to bend it!) and lifting at the back slightly. I regret now not just buying new later type doors! Also turns out I am missing numerous bits so I cant get the lock barrel to work. Apparently there are more parts which bolt onto the back of the barrel and some bearings which I dont have. Think I will make some stainless 'blanking' barrels tapped so they can be screwed in from the back and just use the remote central locking to open the front doors. One less thing for scumbags to try to break into anyway... Ben

Hi all, I have read hundreds of forum posts on the early Defender lift handle locks but nothing seems relevant to my issue. When the door is shut against the seal, it wont open from the inside handle. From the outside with the window down, I can push against the door to take the pressure off the striker arm, then it will open using the inside handle but if there is pressure on the striker arm (ie the door is fitted against the door seal) it will not open. It opens fine from the outside handle, albeit there is some resistance before it releases. Obviously I can adjust the door so that there is no pressure from the door seal but that would kind of defeat the point of the seal! Has anybody experienced a similar issue or does anybody have any experience of taking these locks apart? I know these early lift handle locks are no longer available from anywhere so I am reluctant to drill the rivets to have a look inside without some sort of guide as there seem to be quite a few moving parts, although it does feel like there is some wear / some springs have lost tension inside mine as the outside handle moves a few degrees with no resistance and therefore rattles. The lock is the one as in the diagram below Thank you!

Assuming you mean electrically stopped working, ie the fan wont work, I would start with the switch. Bypass it, see if the fan comes on before messing about getting to the fan itself. Then check the fuse, then disconnect the wiring connector at the fan and check for 12v. To get to the fan you need to remove the air inlet under the N/S wing. To get this off you will need to remove the windscreen washer bottle. The fan is inside the heater box, screwed in from the back. To get to it you need to remove the heater box from the bulkhead. B

Hi all, I have an issue with my suspension. Car showed a message: 'Suspension fault - Max speed 30mph' shortly after entering a 60mph road. I stopped the car, turned it off and back on, cycled through the suspension heights: it lowered at normal speed, came back up to 'normal' height quickly and started to go up to off road height quickly but then stopped displaying a 'vehicle raising slowly' message. I cycled through a few times and each time after it went up and down fine. I drove steadily for the remainder of the journey (10 miles or so on slow roads) with no issues shown. On the way home the same thing happened shortly after entering the next 60mph road. When I parked and turned off the engine a few minutes later the rear right suspension was way down, much lower than 'access' height. The rest of the suspension was also low, but I assumed it was trying to self level(?) I started it up again and it climbed to normal height. It has since sat at normal height since. My assumptions are: it goes up and down fine, so it isn't the compressor. It sits at normal height for 48 hours without leaking so there isn't a leak. It is either a height sensor or more unluckily an intermittent sticking valve (staying open after the car thinks it has closed). I have a diagnostic booked this afternoon, which I am hoping the car will have stored the fault and will know what the problem is and which corner caused it if it is a height sensor? I haven't managed to get it to break again though. Assuming it is a sensor, can anybody point me in the right direction for the part numbers please? It is a 2007 TDV8 L322. I have found for the rear: LR032106, RQH500440, RQH500441, LR020629, RQH500451, RQH500450, LR020628, LR032105 as fitting 2002 - 2009 models but also RQH100030 (which is much cheaper) fitting 2002 - 2004 or 2002-2009 depending on where you read. Front seems much more simple: LR020626 Left and LR020627 for Right? Thank you, Ben

Thanks for the replies guys. Totally agree that it wont be for everyone. My intention is for it to be a bit more modern (not rust coloured, warmer, less constant mist, try to be able to hold a conversation above 50mph, hopefully be a little less wet when it rains etc) while still looking like a Defender. I originally started out to just replace the chassis and reassemble but the usual happened and everything turned out to be a complete mess and not worth reassembling. I was / am intending on a build blog but a) I never seem to get any time to work on the car never mind do a build blog, b) I work on a computer all day so try to avoid them as much as I can, c) I am lazy and d) I keep forgetting to take pictures. I too am interested in how I am going to go about building the dashboard. It is a job I have been putting off for far too long. I am pretty good with a spanner, general fabrication, electronics, hitting things with hammers but less so with the interior subtleties. I WILL (try) to take some photos and put a build blog together. Unless it turns out to be terrible, in which case I wont! As for not being road legal: it has a chassis built to the original spec (albeit with 300Tdi engine mounts), original suspension setup and original steering components, so 9 points. I know there is an argument that the DVLA 'radically altered vehicles' definition really doesn't work for Land Rovers on a chassis. For example the 300Tdi and R380 were in the car when I bought it 12 years ago, I replaced the front axle about 8 years ago as it was in poor condition (rot / mechanically poor), and replaced the rear axle during this rebuild for the same reasons. Finding standard age related parts for a 4C in decent condition is pretty difficult. I guess it is going to be much the same for many of the Land rovers on the road.

I know it is almost impossible to answer but I am after a rough valuation for a rebuilt 90. The insurance need a valuation for the policy: 1986 LR 90 on a galv 300Tdi chassis, 300Tdi (immaculate, 90,000 miles), R380. rebuilt bulkhead (totally rebuilt, ALL rust removed). Resprayed Grey with orange underneath (chassis, axles, engine parts - easier to see oil leaks!) Rebuilt axles (300Tdi), new alloys (16 inch Defender), twin fuel tank (both new), new doors x3 (original style lift up handle on front), heated everything: windscreen, rear screen, mirrors, seats, brand new Masai sliding rear windows, soundproofed throughout, LaSalle interior (full roof panels, all rear windows) re-covered in new scrim fabric, new re-covered door cards, new Land Rover rubber matting, sound proofing system from Exmoor trim (cant remember the guys name), new Mantec wheel carrier, tubular bumpers front and rear, 9500lb winch front, new lighting including LED headlights, spots, roof lights, work lights, door handle lighting, mirror puddle lighting, 4 interior lights, footwell lighting, interior door lighting, leather electric seats, twin batteries, custom dashboard. Plus loads more, you get the idea. I am trying to go for Range Rover luxury in my Defender! I am still working on the interior and wiring loom but hoping to be finished by spring. I know the non standard nature wont appeal to everybody but I have no intention of selling it anyway so I am building it purely as I want it. As I said, I am just hoping for a rough idea to give to the insurer. Thank you!

That makes sense, I have mine going into various 'T's. This seems much neater.

What is the little pneumatic coupling mounted to the bulkhead directly behind the turbo?

I painted mine in Orange mainly from a 'where is that oil coming from?' perspective. Has the added advantage of rustproofing and looking pretty though.

So gearbox refitted, haven't touched the slave or master cylinder except for obviously attaching it to the bellhousing. Clutch disengaged perfectly. Still non the wiser but much happier.

I have just fitted new fuel lines, injector pipes and filter (so no fuel in the system). Didn't prime, just turned it on the starter for a few seconds and away it went. Should that not happen?

I got a brand new Mantec Land Rover branded carrier from the UK MOD auction on bidspotter for about £100 Inc vat. Worth keeping an eye out if you are able to collect from Colsterworth near Grantham.

I didn't as the M/C / pedal box assembly is a new take off from a Defender which had an Auto conversion straight from factory. I assumed, possibly incorrectly that it would already be setup. I will check this now though. It is a 'normal' long bellhousing coupled with a 300Tdi

I didn't replace the Spigot bush, it was in tight, had the correct diameter and a smooth surface. I will order 1 (or 2) and get it replaced If you think it should be. The friction plate springs all moved out seemingly fine when I removed the plate, and back in when I put the plate on so I can only assume that they are fine. I'm pretty certain the push rod is fine, having driven 100,000 miles or so with it! I am hoping that the (albeit small) mating of the friction plate and flywheel was enough to prevent it from engaging gears. If I get time to reassemble tonight I will hopefully find out

If your battery is good (and charged) then it will be a bad connection or corroded earth. Disconnect everything, clean up rust, and loads of copper grease when you reassemble.

Yup. Long evening. I only went in to drive it out and back in again. Thanks, I was considering shimming out the release bearing to see if it fixed it. The bearing is FTC5200 as far as I can see which is listed as Tdi, Td5 and V8 (I will see if it has anything stamped on it later) I get the feeling that this gearbox is going to be on and off quite a few times yet...

The Hazard switch really needs to be a LR Hazard switch, as Western said it is much more than an 'On / Off' switch. The interior light switch depends which switch it is: If it controls interior lights and dashboard lights it needs to be a 'Center Off' type switch. The LR switch has 4 terminals, I guess 2 of them are earths but I would go with a DPDT switch to separate the 2 circuits anyway. The rear screen heater switch is 'On / Off' but there may be some timer circuitry. As Smego said, you can bypass this and swap it for a normal 30A automotive relay. As with any electrics, make sure the wire and switches are appropriately rated, everything is correctly insulated and protected by appropriate fuses or fire tends to occur.

So I thought I had got to the point in my slow rebuild process where I was ready to drive it out of the garage for the first time under its own steam. I pressed the clutch, it felt normal. Tried to put it into gear, the clutch wouldn't disengage. Bled the clutch again, exactly the same. Checked the slave cylinder (new maybe 10k miles ago), that move fine with no leaks. As far as I am aware, since I have owned it, my Defender has never had the little clip to hold the slave push rod onto the release fork (FRC3327, I just ordered one) so I thought maybe the push rod was missing the 'hole' in the fork. I smeared it in red rubber grease, tried it again and it has transferred grease it into the hole in the fork but there is no red trail elsewhere. So I have taken the gearbox off. Flywheel had some surface rust, it hasn't moved since I fitted the clutch maybe 2 years ago(!). On removing the pressure plate, the friction plate was stuck to the flywheel so I thought I might have found the problem, but then a gentle tap freed it off. I did notice evidence that the release bearing has touched the 'fingers' on the pressure plate. I don't want to put the gearbox back in until the little clip has arrived so in the meantime have I missed anything really obvious? It has had a new AP clutch, new HD release fork and also a new master cylinder and pedal assembly (my old pedal was the old type which wouldn't accept the assist spring). Whatever length the push rod in the slave cylinder is, it is the one which used to operate this car's clutch fine. I am assuming the new master cylinder pushes the same amount of fluid as the old one? (new one is from a Puma, old one is probably the original NA Diesel one). I don't want to have to put the old one back on to find it makes no difference! The Defender is a 300Tdi with R380. Thanks!

I second that. I had the same symptoms occur in a car park 300 miles from home. Limped it to a local garage (I was stuck in 2nd so that was a slow journey) who wanted £600 to 'have a look' as they 'had to take the gearbox out'. Had road rescue recover it back home and I seem to recall it took about 30 minutes, 1 screwdriver, 1 spanner and 1 allen key. I didn't have to lower the box, I just removed the gearbox tunnel cover and gearbox selector housing. Good luck!

I'm sure nobody will be that interested but that wont stop me from writing it... There is a spacer over the pinion inside the old diff which seems to be the same height as the non splined bit on the 3 bolt flange. Looks as though I can use this spacer and the original Defender flange on the new diff after all. Suppose I better clean up the rotation surface, mud guard and treat it to a new oil seal while I have it on the bench.

Thanks Western. I think the diff was from a Discovery. I found this which il have a proper read of in the morning https://www.landroverworkshop.com/axles-differentials/pinion-flange-pinion-oil-seals. Apparently there is a spacer around the pinion.

Had some play in the input bearing on the front diff so thought I'd swap it for a spare. The spare had a 3 hole flange, the props on the defender are 4 hole, so took the flange off the old diff to find them to be totally different. The 3 hole flange had a longer 'nose' in front of the splines than the 4 hole flange so I am unable to swap them. Any idea what 4 hole flange I need to buy? The 'new' diff has an M12 female thread in the diff whereas the 'old' diff has an M16 male thread. Don't know why I expected this to be straight forward! Thanks Ben

OK you need to enlighten my naivety. Who were these 'extreme' orange people? Thanks, I wont bother trying to open them then

I can second the earth issue. Assumed the starter was on its way out until the handbrake cable seized. Turned out the engine earth strap was so badly corroded that it earthed through the handbrake cable and melted the shroud

I suspect I will clean the gauges up and see what they look like. Or go down the Td5 route. My fat hands aren't all that great when it comes to fiddly... So the orange: The main reason is that everything used to be either oily black or a sort of rust brown covered in a spattering of oily black. There was always oil on the drive and I could never figure out where it was coming from. I thought if I went for a bright colour for every component under the car and bonnet then at least for a while I will have a fighting chance at eliminating some of the more major oil leaks. Plus Britpart use yellow so I wanted to stray well away from that. I'm determined to get a few more years out of it so everything has been cleaned down / acid bathed / galvanised / rebuilt / filled with dinitrol / etched and covered in enamel. Its grown on me: I think the orange and grey work quite well. Apparently you guys disagree judging from above!