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citizen kane

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  1. Thanks for the links and the ideas. I'm still undecided what I'm going to be using this thing for. Still trying to absorb as much information as possible, what seems likely is I'm unlikely to get it right first time. Whichever way I go this is going to have to be very much a budget build so it's going to use the box as is, and I still can't make my mind up if I can tolerate sleeping in a box on springs.
  2. This is my 130 with a Quadtec box on the back. Conversion hasn't started yet, still trying to decide on a sensible layout.
  3. I've done the Corsa C mod on a Series. To give you and idea of the output I measured the torque required to move the steering wheel while stationary and the assistance turned off, with 7.50 tyres it was about 35Nm, with the power steering turned up to maximum that dropped to 6Nm so somewhere around 25Nm of assistance is available.
  4. I think the Jake Wright installation is over 3K fitted, not sure if you get a new steering box for that or they fit to your existing one. Unfortunately cost have gone through the roof for these. This Corsa EPAS for my Series conversion cost three times that, forgot to mention, loads of garage time as well.
  5. You could try these people, https://www.par-group.co.uk/rubber-and-polyurethane/silicone-extrusions/ If you are feeling entrepreneurial it may be worth getting a quote for a bespoke extrusion , I got a quote for an industrial application, cant remember if it was from PAR but I was very pleasantly surprise by the cost. You need to pay for the tooling costs but the subsequent price per meter wasn't that much.
  6. I use an M8 shoulder bolt and a stack of wavy washers, still not brilliant but it stops the rattles.
  7. Wow, no servo on discs, that must take a firm push to get anything happening.
  8. I've not misunderstood, I wouldn't have a clue about how to calculate the power increase due to the improved acceleration, the claim was a 5% increase in top speed and as you point out that's a cubic rule so it does equate to around 16%
  9. I figure you are getting around a 16% increase in power to get a 5% increase in top speed, if correct that's very cheap horsepower.
  10. I'm a fiddler. I made this ages ago, I was always a little concerned about how hot the overdrives run so I thought I would replace the tin cover with an extended alloy cover to help get rid of some of the heat. The intention was to measure the temperatures to see if it made a difference then machine in fins as a final operation. Never got around to any of that, just put it on and ran with it. The plate sounded a little tinny so I added a mass damper, just an isolastic mount with a lump of steel. Then I brought a Romerdrive. Don't know if it did any good but it can't hurt.Free to collect from Fleet in Hampshire. If you want me to send it to you it will be probably be about £5 P&P and £5 to bribe one of the kids to take it to the post office.
  11. Having a bit of a clear out, was going to throw this out https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/quicker-steering.350293/ but thought it might be of some use to someone. Not really suitable for a road going vehicle. You get the arms and adaptor, think I've already taken the ball joints off.You need to be able to collect from Fleet, Hants. Not interested in packing it up or sending it, its much easier for me to throw it in the recycling bin rather than chase it around the garage with random bits or cardboard and sticky tape then wait in for a courier who always turn up late. Advertised on other forums as well.
  12. Its difficult to know where to stop, I would like to make the rear reasonably durable so I thought pegging then of course the two pin diff becomes the weak link, I figured an Ashcroft ATB is no more expensive than a 4 pin diff but its 24 spline so then I need Ashcroft half shafts, who makes EN26 10 / 24 half shafts?
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