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citizen kane

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by citizen kane

  1. I'm a fiddler. I made this ages ago, I was always a little concerned about how hot the overdrives run so I thought I would replace the tin cover with an extended alloy cover to help get rid of some of the heat. The intention was to measure the temperatures to see if it made a difference then machine in fins as a final operation. Never got around to any of that, just put it on and ran with it. The plate sounded a little tinny so I added a mass damper, just an isolastic mount with a lump of steel. Then I brought a Romerdrive. Don't know if it did any good but it can't hurt.Free to collect from Fleet in Hampshire. If you want me to send it to you it will be probably be about £5 P&P and £5 to bribe one of the kids to take it to the post office.
  2. Having a bit of a clear out, was going to throw this out https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/quicker-steering.350293/ but thought it might be of some use to someone. Not really suitable for a road going vehicle. You get the arms and adaptor, think I've already taken the ball joints off.You need to be able to collect from Fleet, Hants. Not interested in packing it up or sending it, its much easier for me to throw it in the recycling bin rather than chase it around the garage with random bits or cardboard and sticky tape then wait in for a courier who always turn up late. Advertised on other forums as well.
  3. Its difficult to know where to stop, I would like to make the rear reasonably durable so I thought pegging then of course the two pin diff becomes the weak link, I figured an Ashcroft ATB is no more expensive than a 4 pin diff but its 24 spline so then I need Ashcroft half shafts, who makes EN26 10 / 24 half shafts?
  4. I've been thinking about getting just the rear done and an Ashcroft ATB fitted but then I need half shafts as well and the price ramps up pretty quickly. Its on the wish list but so are a lot of things.
  5. Hope you don't mind me asking, who pegged your diff's?
  6. This is the same setup in an Series 3, type 50 servo, Series master cylinder with a standard wing cut. Also pics of the adaptor plate.
  7. There seems to be quite a bit of confusion about swapping to a coil sprung servo. I've recently been through the same process. You can fit a type 50 Defender pedal box and servo to a Series but you will need some mods. The top of the servo tower may clash with the bonnet and it can easily be trimmed away for clearance. The pedal needs to be slightly shortened and reangled to match the Series but the biggest issue will be the need for a significant wing / mudshield cut, the Defender pedal box sits the master cylinder much further forward. I made all the mods then decided I didn't want the additional cuts. You cant just bolt the type 50 servo to the Series tower, stud pattern dosnt match. I needed to made an adaptor plate about 15mm thick to place the Series pedal in the correct position and you will need to turn up an adaptor to link the Series pedal to the fork end of the type 50 servo and also slightly reduce the thickness of the existing bush in the Series pedal. Next problem is clearance around the steering box, its going to be tight and I cant say for sure if its going to fit, I did some steering mods at the same time so mine isn't standard, at the very least you will need to rotate the column on the steering box. Its worth noting that the larger servo that Haystee supply is designed for a left hand drive vehicle, it has a cutout on the servo flange presumably to clear the steering box, off course its on the wrong side for a right hand drive vehicle. I can link you to another website where I compared the two pedal boxes.
  8. Series worm isn't that hard, picture shows one where I have taken a skim off the outside to get it running true to the bearing journals, spline wast overly difficult to cut with HSS.
  9. Not on a Series 3 gearbox. As you say, the length of the 2nd and 3rd gear bushes are adjusted to give the required end float for each gear. Once these bushes are assembled they are retained by the wretched C clip and the overall end float of the assembled bushes is adjusted via a combination of the 7 available sizes of thrust washers. The main shaft nut reacts on the 1st, 2nd syncro hub and the splined 1st gear bush locking that assembly in place, it dosnt influence the float on the 2nd and 3rd gear bushes.
  10. Just done my mainshaft, same thing occurred to me, nothing pegs the plain bush. Doing up the main shaft nut has no influence on the bushes as the end float is set by thrust washers, I couldn't see anything in the parts book to peg this bush so I assume its free to rotate.
  11. You could fit one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-London-Taxi-Heater-Control-Valve-LT1-TX2-TX1-kit-car-Next-Day-Delivery-/200989576801?hash=item2ecbe98e61:g:w1cAAOxy3NBSiUNq Unlike the Series tap it bypasses the matrix.
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