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retropower last won the day on August 6

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  1. As above an ls3 would make a lot more sense I think
  2. A suffix k or L r380 in good condition will handle that no problem.
  3. Funnily enough we have an E91 330d manual, but it's in the 330d lol and I think I better leave it there as it's my wife's daily car! What's at Peterborough and when (remember I'm not really a Land Rover person, im new to all this shenanigans!!) i think it will be getting there by early winter, but I doubt it will be fully up and running until spring next yr or so. Have to remember that although this is the only car I'm building for myself, im building around 15 customer projects all from the ground up (much more so than my Range Rover!!!) and in a lot more detail so my brain gets a bit frazzled
  4. Nit picked and stoppered everything (though prep leaves a bit to be desired I have to say!!!) then etched and extra high build primed the lot
  5. Prepped sunroof, prepped and filled and blocked tailgate,
  6. Ruddy long day on it today. Brazed up holes in rear corners, tig welded patches into bad rear corner. Filled rear corners, straightened and filled quarters, blocked everything flat. Re-filled quarters twice more (being ba******) blocked each time, all in Upol D so no sinkage but bugger to sand.
  7. No, we buy them through Northampton motorsport (who we use for almost all our engine Ecu mapping )
  8. http://www.liferacing.com/products/pdus/pdu-16/
  9. We use programmable pdm's a bit on customer project vehicles, but not the ones you mention. We are using Life Racing stuff at the moment, not dissimilar to Motec
  10. Cheers!!! Just wish I had more time to spend on it! Ah well, trying to get 1/4 panels, rear corners, sunroof panel and lower tailgate prepped this coming Saturday. I'm kidding myself if I think all that will get done, but you've got to aim high lol!!
  11. Thanks! Going a metallic jaguar grey for the panelwork, early type grille and headlamp surrounds in Matt black, fabricating ends for the later steel bumpers to get rid of the plastic corner bits and then they will go Matt black too. Losing the side rubbing strips. Will be fitting Matt black 8" x 18" boost type alloys
  12. Whether it's got the same properties after welding I don't know, but it definitely welds surprisingly nicely! I used 4043 rod (again, whether that's correct I don't know but it worked for me and the welds panel beat ok without splitting) the r380 isn't any different between long and short stick internally. Big change between suffix j box and suffix k and L though
  13. Hi, no im using short stick r380 from a discovery 2 td5. Rebuilt and modified with larger rear bearings. With the panels I'm repairing them just the same as I would with steel ones. Cut out the rotten bits, make up new bits in ns4 aluminium and tig weld them in, body file flat, bit of filler to tidy up