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retropower

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retropower last won the day on February 6 2019

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  1. just for info, The bits were pretty much unavailable, so looked at a different route and ended up buying some jeep type headlamp mounts designed for LED 7" lamps. These required a few simple bits of cutting out to the front of the inner wing lamp boxes but fit a treat and allow much easier adjustment, and sit the lamps perfectly into the early type surrounds without any of the old fixings present.
  2. Hi folks! Will post a bit more soon! It’s still moving forwards albeit very slowly due to too much work as usual!
  3. Hi folks it’s been a while, but back working on my Range Rover. It’s an ‘89 but I am fitting an early front end and am now very confused about how the headlamps fit! Does anybody have some decent pictures? I have the alloy bezels and what I believe is the correct front to the new inner wing. I wish to fit a pair of RDX led headlamps but I have no idea what other parts I need, since the wipac bowls and retaining rings that i bought seem to fit neither the car or the lights! The factory parts manual shows various bits but the pictures are difficult to decipher!!
  4. Transition are schedule 10 concentric 2” to 1.5” reducers, stretched to oval over a tool in the flypress. Not perfect yet but ok. Pipes are all 1.5” nominal schedule 10 316 stainless pipe. 6-1 collector. Internal gated turbo but will put port for external just in case
  5. Some other things I’ve been putting together. One of two Mercedes 250sl pagoda mech injection petrol engines. Delivered the w116 s class to its final home, purpose built house for it. Busy engine room and the chevette did it’s first couple of rallies
  6. Sorry for lack of updates!! Engine and box in now, still got to make transmission mounts! Work stupidly busy no not got much done. Awaiting a pair of water to air charge cooler cores from BMR so I can fabricate a charge cooled inlet manifold. Have all the parts to make a tubular exhaust manifold now so need to crack on with that too. re. Sump to gearbox. Was going to weld up and redrill and may still do, but equally there’s no shortage of bolts in the block itself and compared to something like a Chevy LS3 for example which has no bolts at all in the lower 3rd of the mating area I would be happy running it without the sump to transmission bolts.
  7. Less prone to cracking. I've seen a lot of seam welded shells crack from the ends of the welds. I tig braze them 1 inch every 3 inches using copper/silicone rod (sifsilcopper 968) which is very strong but crack resistant and copes well with the inevitable dirt in the seams
  8. Thanks Steve! Gordon’s car is getting very near the end of metal fab work now. Plan is to get it “dry built” over the next week and a half in time for his next visit. I don’t think I will have time to get it seam brazed before then so will have to do that after it’s stripped back down, before we blast and zinc metal spray it. Fingers crossed I can get everything done in time!
  9. Finally I still have my suffix L r380 box, all stripped down in a crate, with bead blasted modified rear housing machines for big bearings, painted main case, brand new tdi input shaft, full rebuild kit incl synchros and the large rear bearings, plus loads more stuff, after £500 the lot which is a bargain!! Also would include my sprinter single mass flywheel which bolts to the om606 and the sprinter pressure plate which can be uprated by clutchfix to take the power, and these then accept a dimensionally standard 300tdi friction plate with uprated linings again from clutchfix
  10. Got a fair bit of interior back in now. Seats need a clean but are in really good nick. Would like leather but I want manual seats not electric so may address that in the future. My wife prefers cloth seats so they might just stay as they are! Im going to reinforce the rear seat mount area underneath (bit flimsy the original design lol) and add isofix points now and also will be fitting a brand new genuine alloy boot floor.
  11. Bodywork wise progress is slow, been building doors for what seems an eternity!!!
  12. Rear bowl om648 sump cleaned up and oil pump fitted, then sump fitted. Dieselmeken 7.5mm element pump with external Alda fitted and timed up. Waiting for cam cover gaskets in order to fit cam cover and injector pocket o rings then can fit injector lines
  13. Hi folks! Been a while since I’ve updated! Been a lot of non Range Rover stuff going on. Work is ridiculously busy and we’ve been on a long journey towards having a baby too, which is hopefully a step closer. This has also prompted a slight change of direction in on the build! while I was being sensible power wise and going manual box and r380, I’ve now bought a whacking great holset he341ve variable nozzle turbo, fit for 450hp, and I have my 7.5mm injection pump which will fuel that without a problem. I now have an amg ml55 transmission which I will be fitting an om606 type front housing too (bolt on from the e300 722.6 auto box) and using a red winches adaptor to fit my uprated lt230 transfer with atb centre diff. I will be using an Ofgear controller to operate the auto box and the boost control via the vnt turbo. Will either use a cruise control rangey steering wheel to do the “paddle shift” or make a joystick setup near the wheel to supplement to remote electric merc shifter which will be on the tunnel top! Will post some pics soon! looking forward to broken axles lol
  14. Two post every time. I run a fairly decent size automotive business and work with ramps every day pretty much. Re. The load nut failure, these are legally required to be tested in the uk by a third party, as “notifiable equipment” a vehicle lift must be inspected etc and it’s criminal law involved not civil. Ours is a used screw type lift from the late nineties and the original load nuts are to quote the inspector “still like new” so they do last pretty well
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