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About quattro

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  1. Just to finish this off Have sent the ECUo ff to get a tacho pin fitted, and bought a tachfix, but still not working fully. I'll get it one day. no doubt. I did nip it out to John Sleath who apparently knows MS well, as well as 4 barrel webers. He had a little play on the rolling road, but couldn't really improve it much, so very happy with what I managed. I did get what should be a final power run, and I am very happy with that, especially that torque curve. Many thanks for all the help, what a job that was
  2. I googled the part number and somehow found this thread - I must admit that I have it running without altering the idle screw as I didn't realise there was an adjuster under the plug by the throttle body. There is no mention of this anywhere in the tuning manuals, although adjusting the throttle stop is mentioned a few times but I don't appear have one of those. I only found this air bleed while googling something or other about a week ago. Testing was going to happen today, but other things got in the way, so it will be tomorrow. Before doing this, I wanted to get some information about the PWM as I have read that the PWM valve is closed when 3.5V is applied to it. It is open when no voltage is applied and goes to default of fast idle. As open loop applies no voltage to it, it remains at fast idle. Hence my question, which was to clarify what to do about it. I have read that a base idle of 600rpm is good to start, is this about right?
  3. Hi all Car is running quite well now (much better than it was with the weber) although in closed loop it does hunt a bit sometimes. So, I tend to run in Open loop (Warm up only) but I can't find a way of closing the PWM, so only get a fast idle at around 1,100 rpm. I have set the closed(dc) to 25 which should close it, but this is greyed out in open loop mode so it goes back to default and stays open. Data logging shows the idleDC at 0% at idle. Am I missing something here, or do I have to run in closed loop to get an idle at 800rpm? Richard
  4. I am still learning, but my Spark Settings are different to yours. In 'Fixed angle' I have -10, so that it will work from the spark table. Then I used a strobe light to check the timing was correct compared to the reading on tunerstudio, then adjusted the 'Trim' until it matched. I have '1' in the trim angle as it was pretty much correct.
  5. I got it now lads, cheers. I entered it as a PLX 0-5v (10-20:1 AFR) then I'll set the lambda to read 0-4v (10-18:1AFR). I hope I can do that . As they're both linear, they will both read the same up to 18. Then, mysteriously the AFR target table reverted to AFR I haven't tried it yet though.
  6. S'ok - got it
  7. A while ago, prior to fitting EFI, I had a 4 barrel weber, and to help to tune this, I fitted a 'Sack Wideband Lambda' which worked a gauge on the dash. I then fitted the EFI along with the supplied narrowband Lambda and got learning about the tuning side of things. It seems that the Wideband would be better than the Narrowband for tuning purposes so as I had some spare (perhaps too much ) time on my hands, I looked at the wiring of the Stack unit and found it had a blue wire which could go to the ECU or data logger. After a small amount of wiring the WB is now connected to the ECU. In the links above it says to set the switchpoint to 2.5V if using a 0-5V WB and after some googling I am basically told to set the 0-4v one to 2. 14.7 is 1.88v, hence the first question, 1.88 or 2? The links also say that as an option, you can set it to look at a target AFR table 8x8, where it would ignore the switch point. I want it to work from the 8x8 table, but just wanted to set the switchpoint correctly in case I had to revert to it. The AFR table on Tunerstudio is as the first box in the picture above, i.e 3.57 across the top rows (WOT) which is around 18AFR if my maths are correct, then lower rows it goes above the 4v to well over 20AFR. I tried to generate a table and TS did a reasonably good job by the look of it (second box in pic above) but when I clicked 'apply' I got an table with all 5s, and still in volts. Quagmire's link (Ta muchly) directs me to a thread showing me to go into the INI file of Tunerstudio (That's getting a little beyond me) and changing things in there. Is there no way to install the Stack WB without having to delve into the INI files? and how do I generate a proper AFR table for the lambda to work from? Richard
  8. I've been reading this lot http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Software_Manual.htm#lambdaset and http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Tuning_Manual.htm#VESetts So, I'm aware what a wideband will do, but to use it as a narrowband, i.e. setting it at 1.88v at the switch point means I may as well use a narrowband. To use it as a wideband I need to set it to look at the 8x8 VE table 1. But, how do you tell the system what to look for? i.e. my WB will be giving 0 volts at 10 AFR, and 4V at 20 AFR, the ECU doesn't know this and I can't work out how to tell it. The drop down list doesn't have an option for the stack WB, or anything 0-4V. If I do go into the INI file and change things, then I have the next problem of the 8x8 VE table 1 reading in volts, and not AFR. I tried generating my own VE table using TS but when I clicked on "Apply VE targets for VE Table 1" I got all boxes saying 5.0. Anyone know how to load the stack WB, and how to get the target 8x8 table to read in AFR? Richard
  9. hmmm... Thanks for the link. The stack WB isn't listed, and I don't really want to go delving into the INI files, so I think I'll just plug the NB back in for the time being. Also, the AFR targets for VE table 1, is in volts and most of it is above 4V . As 4V on the lambda is an AFR of 20, I can see the ECU trying to get the AFR to about 25! Hoping to get the car back on the road over the weekend.
  10. I take it back, I'm just as confused I thought the 'EGO switch point' just told the ECU where AFR changed from lean to rich .i.e. stoichiometric mixture. Then the ECU (and tuner studio) used that voltage to correct the amount of fuel injected.
  11. Car's been off the road, so plenty of time for playing with tunerstudio, etc. Now, I do have a wideband lambda fitted - it's been running a dashboard gauge for a few years now. I have changed the wiring a bit and now have the datalogger wire running to the blue wire on the ECU, so effectively, the ECU is seeing the wideband, narrowband has been unplugged. It's a "Stack" lambda and is linear 0-4V between 10 and 20 AFR. I have read that I should set the switch point to 2V, i.e. half way between the two, but 14.7 AFR would be at 1.88? So should the ego switch point(v) be set to 1.88 or 2? Richard (less confused than I was, but only just )
  12. Yes Nige, I know it's you There was no MSQ with the ECU, but you did email it to me mid September. I did get a spark map with it but it was very mild. This one has been tweaked up a bit with the information I have been reading. It isn't as advanced as I was going to have it, but more so than the one on the MSQ. I was just looking for any opinions on it. Richard
  13. 4L C/B Rover V8, 20,000 miles. P6 car, 1,300Kg, manual LT77 2 wheel drive. MS1 V.3, running fuel and spark, bought from Nige. Engine has RP4 cam, tubular headers and full Stainless system, Stage 1 SD1 heads, 35% lightened flywheel, I realise that mimicking a dizzy isn't the ideal way to tune the spark map, but to be honest, it's all I've got. In all of the mountains of information I have read about MS, 75% of it doesn't apply to MS1, and all the other 25% percent says about setting up your spark maps is to do it before VE tuning.
  14. How's this looking? I have toned it down a bit, so thought I could use it as a starting point. Richard
  15. I wouldn't mess about with anything on my say so I'm still part way up a sharp learning curve. I will probably give it a go though, albeit on a very conservative, bit by bit attempt . I don't want to be bringing my pistons home in a jamjar. Richard