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quattro

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About quattro

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  1. Fuel outlet on a P6 is under the tank, so no siphoning I washed it out with clean petrol but there was nothing in there. There was however some muck in the tank which had blocked the internal filter. I did have to remove the tank and wash it out thoroughly. All up and working again now - touch wood
  2. Hi FF, I managed to speak to them earlier, but the chap who knows about retrofitting EFI into classics is not in until Wednesday 1st May. I have had a google or three, so will check there's no vacuum building in the tank, then drain the tank, clean it out, wash the pump out, check for any restrictions, etc Richard
  3. Yes, definitely the pump. It does it whilst stationary and there's nothing else moving back there. Richard
  4. Yes, pump is rubber mounted, it's cable tied to a bracket on 6mm foam, then the bracket is on two rubber mounts to the body. The only other connection to the body are the R9 8mm hose at the pressure end, and the R7 12mm hose at the inlet. Pump is from Glencoe.co.uk, not a cheapy. I understand they can be noisy, but this one starts off with just a normal pump noise, which I was expecting, but then gets a lot louder. I don't know if youtube links work on here - https://youtu.be/omcc48oveLc Richard
  5. No lift pump, no. The pump is under the tank though, around 15cm below the bottom of it, with a 40cm hose. I did only have around a gallon of petrol in there, so wondered if there wasn't enough pressure to the pump, so I went and put 6 gallons in, and it made no difference whatsoever. Richard
  6. Hi All. Megasquirt running nicely, loads of power :) but the diff has been suffering so I have just spent 16 months (in between work and general life) shoehorning a 2.88 LSD Jag diff into my P6B. For reasons more complicated than interesting, during this work, I have removed the in-tank pump and fitted an in-line fuel pump instead. Flick the ignition on and it buzzes away happily for a second or two, then start the car and of we go. Then after a minute or so the noise starts, and I mean it's very loud. I can hear the pump in the cabin, on the motorway, with the radio on 🙁. The pump is a HP3017.1. Anyone know if this is unsuitable for any reason? Have I done something wrong? (It has a 12mm feed straight from the tank to the pump, 40cm x 12mm i/d hose from the tank, and in-tank filter. Intuition is suggesting that there is not enough back pressure for the pump - and it's over running, but that is just a hunch. Any ideas lads as I haven't had the use of my car for 16 months and want to go for a drive 😉 Richard
  7. I gave up and got someome else to do it for me Basically, my circuit worked very well, but only for a fraction of a second, until the transistor overheated. So, because it happened so quickly, I didn't see it working at all. When you turn it off and measure stuff, the transistor had cooled down and showed everything was ok. A very handy chap called Dave EFI fixed it with a dirty great transistor which runs all day only without even getting warm, so all is working OK. Just have to get the Jag diff in now
  8. I am measuring the voltage at the 86 terminal on the relay with a basic DV Voltmeter. I realise that I am measuring pulses and won't get an accurate reading of voltage, but if one circuit is rapidly jumping around from 0.5V to 9V, and the other is a constant 5.4V, then something is wrong. I suspect the problem is with the bouncing one. I am either using the 1K resistor and 2N2222 in the ECU, or a circuit that I have made using a 1K resistor and a 2N5551 transistor. When using my circuit, I just bypass the ECU circuit and connect directly to JS3. With the home made circuit, the tacho rises when the car is revved, but is not steady. The relay doesn't buzz at all. I am aware that my testing equipment is nowhere near good enough and I'm not entirely sure what to test for anyway, so have now found someone to test the entire thing, ECU, added bits and my home made stuff. Let's hope that sorts it When you said earlier that the MS settings looked fine, did you mean the 7, 1 and 0, or the 5, 2 and 55? Cheers Richard
  9. Megasquirt support forum (MSEXTRA). It does look like there is something wrong with the added circuitry in the ECU, as the voltage is bouncing around inside it. My circuit is not opening the transistor fully as I'm only getting 5.4V at the -ve side of the relay? I'm going to try and whack it with a hammer later Richard
  10. I was advised to post on other forums Garry, and Dave has been very helpful. The third forum haven't answered yet so I'll just stick with the two for now.
  11. Hi Bowie. It worked perfectly prior to the installation of the EFI. Also, I do have another tacho, albeit from a 4 cylinder P6 (still RVC), and when I fitted that it bounced around like the 8 cylinder one. I will try that again now I have got somewhere though, I am open minded about the cars original wiring. Richard
  12. Out with the multi meter - right with this circuit the relay buzzes intermittently. With the engine running, the voltages are +ve side of coil (85)- 14.3V, -ve (86) - jumped from 0.5V to 9V and all points in between. Voltage at JS3 jumped around from 1V to 4.5V. I disconnected the orange wire, and then connected a patch wire to it, then clipped the other end directly to JS3 with a crocodile clip. This basically bypassed the circuit in the ECU without me having to remove/cut anything . I then connected this to my circuit board like this Now, the voltages are (85) - 14.3V, (86) - 5.4V (pretty much constant), JS3 4.5V, base of 2N5551 0.7V, resistor in 4.5V, resistor out 0.7V. All of these voltages are fairly constant. The tacho does now point in the right general direction but still waves around a fair bit. It's better, but not yet right, and not accurate enough to use. There is not enough voltage to fire the relay, so no buzzing at all. All the above readings are at tickover (750-800rpm). So, more from intuition than electronic knowledge, I would say there's something amiss within the added circuit in the ECU - although any opinions would be greatly received
  13. I would be using JS3 to run through this :- So, not directly to the coil. The firing of the relay is intermittent, you can hear it with the switch gear in there. It makes no difference to what the tacho does, whether I use the relay with the switch still in there, or the one I have stripped out. I have three relays in all and they all do the same. When the relay is switching on and off (buzzing), the tacho works correctly, so I am thinking the circuitry somewhere isn't up to firing the relay. I will try to get a voltage at both ends of the relay when the engine is running, and see what is happening there, but am short of time at present (I'm supposed to be working ) Richard
  14. Right tried wiggling everything, and the car engine died. So managed to start it again and took it for a short drive where it kept dying on me, so back to the workshop and tried wiggling everything again. Checked every plug, pin, wire, connection, nothing. So went and got some petrol next job after the tacho is the fuel gauge. So is the 2N2222 up to the job? - I am not good enough at soldering to try to remove the 2N2222 and replace it with the 2N5551 in the ECU My soldering skills look like I have used an arc welder. Or, would it be sensible to cut both the red and orange wires in the ECU and solder them together, to bypass the circuit in there, and then have a wire direct from JS3. Then run that through my circuit. Also, I have googled the output system and found that the settings may be wrong . I have changed the figures in the boxes from 7, 1, and 0 to 5, 2, and 55, which should apparently start the feed from JS3 at 500rpm, stop it if it gets down to 300rpm and give it a higher limit of 5,500rpm. This made no difference at all so does anyone know if these figures are correct? Thanks in advance Richard
  15. I'll give that a go tomorrow. I will also get the multi meter out and test the circuit along its entirety whilst it is running, hopefully find an intermittent voltage somewhere. I'll be glad when I've had enough of this
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