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Everything posted by JohnnoK

  1. Did you lube the inner surface of the seal with engine oil before fitting the pulley? If it is dry, the seal will generate heat and fail, causing it to leak, but in all fairness, it shouldn't be immediately when you rev it.
  2. Something like this? https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/bmw-m57-to-300tdi-r380-adaptor-kit/ From here.. https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product-category/adaptor-kits/
  3. Who makes/supplies the electrical connectors used in the Discovery 2? I want to tidy up my engine bay harnesses and need new pins and some connectors to do that. Alternatively, does someone know the name/series of the connectors so I can do a comprehensive Google search?
  4. The sunroof isn't watertight, by design. There is an internal tray around the perimeter of the window that is connected to drain pipes that run down the A & B pillar, check they are not blocked and it may be that your tray is rusted through if it has been blocked for long enough before.
  5. The Nanocom diagnostic box can do it, but it wouldn't surprise me if the OEM one couldn't. Maybe consider buying a Nanocom, if you intend keeping the Landy, better, too, if you have mates who have vehicles with OBD-II connectors, because all you will need then is to buy the software and the appropriate cable for the various models, and you can start making some side money doing diagnostics.
  6. You need the gearbox shift lever housing and the difflock actuator and mounting off a D1make that work. Remove the current shift lever housing and transfer the stick and springs etc over and refit, then bolt down the difflock lever and linkages. You will also need a D1 hi/lo actuating lever for the T/C as there is a difference between the 2, the D2 is straight and the hi/lo linkage won't line up properly, the D1 linkage is doglegged and that lines the selector rod up nicely. http://www.discovery2.co.uk/D1_to_D2_cdl.html
  7. Recheck your clamps.
  8. You may have a leaking turbo hose to or from the intercooler. The hoses sometimes get pinhole leaks or the clamps aren't tightened properly.
  9. Tempting, but I wouldn't. A pressing reason why you shouldn't have will come to light, soon after you weld them...🤔
  10. A quick rummage on Google reveals that you may have this baby.
  11. I ended up getting an NSK release bearing, and will sell the HD one on.
  12. Reading this thread has me wondering what to do. I recently bought some bits off John Craddock for my upcoming clutch job on the Disco, and when the bits arrived.... The heavy duty release bearing is in a BLUE BOX...😬 as is the master cylinder. Now, the master cylinder is going on, as replacing that won't be a master class in frustration, but the release bearing has me worried...
  13. So, here are the remains of my release bearing.... My question is HOW does this happen? I have never seen anything this bad before.
  14. It works well, don't use the tablets, use the liquid soap like Fairy Liquid or whatever is locally available, but don't use too much as it foams a lot and that will need to be rinsed after the wash as it will leave residue.
  15. I also need to replace the seals, so it makes sense to do that.
  16. Overthinking? ME!??? Never.....🤔 I decided to make the 2 cradles and pull the TC separately, then the gearbox. I need to replace the seals between them anyway, and this makes the load lighter to manhandle.
  17. Did you get your one ramp straightened out? Looking great, and you have every reason to be well chuffed with yourself.
  18. I need to pull my gearbox to fix a clutch problem, and my question is will the R380 jacking support tool ST3211M, attached below, support both the box and TC or will I need to make provision for the additional weight of the TC at the rear of the support? I have an adjustable transmission jack to get it all level etc, but the risk of it all tipping over once it is withdrawn off the engine is a question in my mind. Would a strap over the box just aft of the bellhousing be sufficient to prevent tipping or should I extend it to below the TC? Thanks in advance!
  19. I know of one, but it's a bit far away, in Cape Town. Besides, I doubt the owner would sell it as it is earmarked for a project.
  20. Does it run if you give it a manual spin when you turn it on? If so, it could be the starter capacitor that's croaked.
  21. According to SACHS,.. https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/sachs-service-greasing-clutch-disc-hub-spline I am going to be changing the clutch on my D2 soon and will be using Loctite 8009 or NEVER-SEEZ Nickel compound, whichever I find first in my garage.
  22. We have the Touch 'n Tuff ones at work and they are perfectly acceptable.
  23. Would it not be economically more suited to source a stronger tail lift from a breaker's yard? It just seems to me that all that cutting and welding, the, the bodywork and finishing is going to amount to a lot more in terms of time/cost than a used lift and overhaul of the lifting gear.
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