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Everything posted by JohnnoK

  1. Back when I was a 'Prentice Lad, we had a 1.5m cubed stainless tank with a pneumatically lifted tray that rose out of the gunk in it to allow you to load and submerge the goodies you needed stripped. We called it the "Ardrox bath" probably because Ardrox made the stuff in it, but whoever arrived first at work had to turn on the heating element int the tank and drain the compressed air lines and then turn on the 5 gallon urn for coffee, in that order. I can remember having to use elbow length gloves to work there and my arms getting all tingly and pasty white from the vapour when it got under the gloves, it was so strong. The guy in charge of the overhaul shop left a main transmission casing in it over the weekend once and come Monday all that was left were the steel inserts for the bolts, the magnesium casing was GONE!!!
  2. I sense the advent of a small anvil....
  3. Forcing it loose will break whatever is sticking at the moment. If a lot of water came out with the oil, I'd open it up and check the innards for corroded bearings before using it again. Fairey_PTO_Drum_Winch_user_manual-1.pdf
  4. Apologies, I misunderstood the question. You'll probably have to go mandraulic on the removal of the bits, with copious use of a good penetrant oil to assist.
  5. It's called Galvanic Corrosion and is the result of dissimilar metals and water.
  6. As an enthusiastic "armchair welder" why are you doing it in stages as opposed to bunging it in Madame's oven to preheat and then getting stuck in and finishing it? I understand your welding it in different paces to mitigate cracking and stresses by not building up too much heat, but why not dive in and get it done?
  7. I'd start with the selector setup, they tend to wear the pivot points and a little bit of slop can lead to a lot of free play downstream. You may be able to disconnect the linkage from the selector arm on the top of the transfer box and manually move it to the lock position and see if that engages the diff lock.
  8. In and of itself, that sump plug is not in any way alarming in my opinion.
  9. No, it's not that. I have used wire twisters in aviation for over 30 years now, and I have never seen that tool before. These are your generic wire twisters Deep reach aviation type rebar tie twister
  10. Interesting, I ran my 1275 ex-race engined Mini on it for a while and my P6 Rover with no ill effects. Both were high(er) compression, though, the P6 is 10,5 and the Mini was probably closer to 11. They were probably running too lean to get such high temperatures.
  11. Is the little pipe from the top right corner of the radiator to the header tank clear of obstructions? It should have a steady flow when the engine is running. My D2 Td5 hose stays hard, too, I don't think that's an issue as the system runs at over 1 atmosphere pressure, so if it is staying firm, I'd say it's still well sealed and in working order. I'd pull the top hose off and reclamp it with a smear of rubber grease on the inside of the hose for starters, and then run it and see.
  12. Some sort of tying/tightening and cutting tool, maybe?
  13. Apparently us Furriners are undesirable viewers of such stuff......
  14. AVGAS 100LL is still leaded (LL is Low Lead) so your engine will like that feature, the issue comes in with low compression engines that will gain nothing from the higher octane fuel and the fact that the required adjustments to timing and mixture are beyond the normal scope of automotive ECUs and the vast majority of tuners. From Wiki...
  15. I had Hankook Dynapro ATMs on my Disco2 when I got it, they had been fitted at around 161 000km and I just took them off now at 364 000km, so if the ones you are talking about are anything like the ones I had, I'd say go for it.
  16. Ignore my number, too!! Also missed the V8 bit....doh!
  17. I'd have brought it around the back and angled it to meet the bottom of the rear cross member, personally.
  18. The catalogue says it takes a 7PK1801.
  19. Serves him right, AVGAS is 100 octane and belongs in a motorcycle or high performance car...🤔
  20. I ran my 1275 Mini and my Rover P6 on the old spec 120 Avgas on occasion, and it didn't do any harm. I once called the local refinery and spoke with a chemist there who said that as long as the engine is over 9.5:1 CR and in good condition, Avgas wouldn't be a problem.
  21. If the engine has a mechanical pump and separate injectors fed via pipes, then as a rule, it will run on Paraffin/Kero/JetA-1. A liter of engine oil or 2 stroke oil per tank will do for the pump. Common rail engines don't like it at all. I ran a Mec 240D on JetA-1 pumped straight out of the bowser at work for nearly a year with no side efects, and the company had an old Ford tractor and a Toyota forklift that both ran on JetA-1 for their entire lives of almost 20 years with no ill effects. They start harder in the cold and don't have the same power due to the lower calorific content of thefuel, but they run fine. A colleague ran his Hilux pickup on fuel drain samples for over 10 years, too.
  22. Stand easy, Soldier! Your watch has ended. Rest in Peace.
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