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JohnnoK

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Everything posted by JohnnoK

  1. Technically, the roof panel and the framing for the roof are spot welded all down the gutters, around 50-ish spots per side on my D2. As for function, I must agree that all they do is direct the rain to the closest point where it will leak into the cabin....
  2. We have an array of barrier materials that we use to try and get around/minimise corrosion, but in many cases, the only real "fix" is to regularly remove, inspect, retreat, reinstall to be really effective.
  3. I think it's called an unloader. It basically vents the line from the second piston to the tank, (which will have a non-return valve) and that allows it to start up without internal pressure. MR HIPPO beat me to it.
  4. I was getting it from someone trying to flog me a diff, but a visit with the Mk1 eyeball tells me I am misled. My sincerest apologies.
  5. I had a Kershaw A100and liked it a lot, until some nimble fingered bugger liked it more. I'd recommend it, particularly for the vise grip feature of the pliers.
  6. Rear exhaust and fuel tank will be untouched as only the front diff is other handed, rear remains as is. OP may need to adjust front section of exhaust if it's a V8 and obviously the entire axle needs swapping out with a Disco2 one, and the front propshaft (I think) as the P38 may be different due to transfer case size and geometry.
  7. Can't you have the wheel centers re-positioned where you need them?
  8. The only drawback I can see is that the sheet thins out as it's drawn down, starting at the edge of the shape, and that edge tends to be a weak point and fracture prone. You may want to experiment with thicknesses of sheet to get best results.
  9. Agreed, but for his wish to go to the LT230 he will require the Disco offset to the right versus P38 to the left.
  10. You push them through, hold the body and pull the nut out, then tighten it. Unscrew the nut, push the stem back in and withdraw to remove. I find they hold tighter than Clecos, but take longer to fit and remove. A mate who is an aircraft sheetie has both, for quick or strong applications.
  11. Overhead power lines are already being tested in Germany. https://www.theverge.com/2019/5/9/18538030/germany-ehighway-siemens-vw-group-electrified-cables-wires-overhead-electric-hybrid-trucks
  12. https://www.popularmechanics.co.za/wheels/sa-man-converts-his-jeep-to-electric-power/ This was back in 2014, so with the advances in battery and controller tech, it should be more efficient/feasible today.
  13. Chances are good you will have been. I can't see LR being that dumb.
  14. The long slot will be for the crank position sensor, so whatever the location of that is, relative to the timing specifications will see you right. I see a 5th hole in your yellow ring of bolts, possibly/probably a locator pin to take the guesswork out of position.
  15. Is the toe board clearance set up correctly since you reinstalled the master? The procedure should be in RAVE.
  16. Try the rag trade/haberdashery shops for card. My wife is ex-rag trade and she has dozens of patterns that are thick manilla card. It's about 1m wide and is in a roll, but the shops should sell per meter for small piecemeal jobs. You can get regular manilla paper as well as the card, so be careful of the weight per sq meter when you buy it.
  17. Griff, I will definitely be doing that first. I was just hoping to tap into the collective knowledge base to see if the prognosis should be good or could be dire...
  18. Garry, What form does the signal need to be? Would something like the pickup for a bicycle speedo not work, it uses a rare earth magnet and a pickup to get the signal. There should be space on the handbrake drum to stick the magnets and a bracket for the pickup?
  19. My Disco2 Td5 has suddenly decided that going into reverse is too much effort without rolling the car back a bit first, which is obviously far from an ideal situation. The pedal is also spongy with the clutch taking just off the floor, no juddering or sudden "bite", just the spongy pedal and low actuation. I am going to change master and slave as a matter of routine, but I want to know if I should take a deep breath and budget for a clutch kit and DMF, too? Thanks!
  20. Try here for a manual. http://www.lathes.co.uk/
  21. Swap the ECU with the engine, you will get the benefit of the better pull-away acceleration of the automatic engine's map. You may need to inform the BCM, though, I can't remember from where I read it. Nanocom should do it fine.
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