JohnnoK

Overhead power lines are already being tested in Germany. https://www.theverge.com/2019/5/9/18538030/germany-ehighway-siemens-vw-group-electrified-cables-wires-overhead-electric-hybrid-trucks

https://www.popularmechanics.co.za/wheels/sa-man-converts-his-jeep-to-electric-power/ This was back in 2014, so with the advances in battery and controller tech, it should be more efficient/feasible today.

Chances are good you will have been. I can't see LR being that dumb.

We will remember them!

The long slot will be for the crank position sensor, so whatever the location of that is, relative to the timing specifications will see you right. I see a 5th hole in your yellow ring of bolts, possibly/probably a locator pin to take the guesswork out of position.

Is the toe board clearance set up correctly since you reinstalled the master? The procedure should be in RAVE.

Try the rag trade/haberdashery shops for card. My wife is ex-rag trade and she has dozens of patterns that are thick manilla card. It's about 1m wide and is in a roll, but the shops should sell per meter for small piecemeal jobs. You can get regular manilla paper as well as the card, so be careful of the weight per sq meter when you buy it.

Griff, I will definitely be doing that first. I was just hoping to tap into the collective knowledge base to see if the prognosis should be good or could be dire...

http://erdmanmachine.com/

Garry, What form does the signal need to be? Would something like the pickup for a bicycle speedo not work, it uses a rare earth magnet and a pickup to get the signal. There should be space on the handbrake drum to stick the magnets and a bracket for the pickup?

My Disco2 Td5 has suddenly decided that going into reverse is too much effort without rolling the car back a bit first, which is obviously far from an ideal situation. The pedal is also spongy with the clutch taking just off the floor, no juddering or sudden "bite", just the spongy pedal and low actuation. I am going to change master and slave as a matter of routine, but I want to know if I should take a deep breath and budget for a clutch kit and DMF, too? Thanks!

Try here for a manual. http://www.lathes.co.uk/

Swap the ECU with the engine, you will get the benefit of the better pull-away acceleration of the automatic engine's map. You may need to inform the BCM, though, I can't remember from where I read it. Nanocom should do it fine.

With a suitably sized socket to apply motive force via a buggering stick, and an extension if reach is needed.

Another nice source of manuals.. http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/

Drat! Just when I was getting excited... Oh, well... I guess it's going to have to be the hard way, then. I need to replace the roof after it had an argument with a tree branch, and the screen needs to come out to do that, so pulling the dash and doing that at the same time will keep me off the streets for a while.

That's pretty much what I'm after, it goes inboard until the bracket the air deflector attaches to, about an inch in from the hinges. Can you point me in the right direction, please?

Is the scuttle panel that forms the base of the front screen and holds the bonnet hinges, wiper assembly and the vent on the other side available as a separate section or will I need to fabricate the corroded bits myself?

https://www.fwi.co.uk/machinery/4x4s/690-conversion-kit-turns-land-rover-discoverys-into-pickup-trucks

I had the 3 amigos for ages on my D2 and they suddenly packed up and departed when I fitted a new battery and had to make up new cables with decent clamps to replace the dodgy stuff that was fitted. A guy I know also had the 3 Amigos and they were repaired with cleaned up earth points on the block and chassis.

OK, so after much to and fro, here is what a mate knocked up for me. I haven't checked it for accuracy, so don't hold me to it, I will cut one in 0.5mm first to compare with me dead one when I do the job. P38 flex.DXF P38 flex.pdf

Buy the engine, fit it and drive it. While you are enjoying it, buy the bits to do the top hat mod and do it to another engine ready to drop in when it's done. Sell the good engine you just pulled out to cover costs.

The oil filler cap looks useable... Please be gentle applying the fudge...🤪

Nice one! I am not sure who the distributor is these days, I got mine back in 1997 at the Co-Op in Paulpietersburg and sent it to Joburg for repair. I'm back in SA on the 18th, give me a call and I will ask a mate who has a Snap-On van and see if he knows. 083 556 1466

Not without some sort of assistance from ice or aircon type cooling.