JohnnoK

Ummm....Perodo....😏😁

Ours used to go through the reduction gear bearings at the wheels in a fairly regular fashion. A bugger of a job in the field with that particular side in a ploughed furrow, I can tell you...🤬

Disco 2 and P38 should be interchangeable. Disco 1 is same-same as Defender.

As a kid on the farm, the first tractor I remember us having was a David Brown 990 which was joined by a MF135, both great tractors,, but given a choice today, I'd take a 135 hands down.

I can't see why not.

First name, John, hence the Johnno nickname. Surname Kilfoil for the K

Sigh, that is going to have to wait until I get back from work. The coup in Gabon has not gone off the rails, so they reopened the borders again and I leave tomorrow. I'll try and remember to update this when I get back and have recovered from my carpal tunnel surgery a few days later.

You are correct about the roof, I had only got as far as thinking about the sides. The roof could be off poles on the ends of the ramp sections with the sides either attached or separate. Attached is a quantum leap of complexity to raise and lower, though, so best keep it simple (and lighter)...👍😁

If you cut the inner ring sections at an angle, they should slip out after it has cooled.

GBP5250, doesn't seem much for a going concern.

Thanks, I need to get the tappet cover off to get the codes of the injectors to load them, will have a shufti while it's open.

With fold-up sides to make a roof/awning while parked up and a closed trailer for the road, I reckon you'd be onto a winner.

I recently replaced the engine in my Disco II Td5 and I've noticed a strange thing. When I start the engine and its idling it sounds like the old engine did, quiet and "normal" for want of a better description, but as soon as I give a bit of throttle, the engine note changes noticeably to a much harsher diesel sound that is more like the older generation engines than the Td5. Both old and replacement engines are 10P and I have not yet done the injector coding, but my Nanocom tells me the cylinder balances are from +2 to -1 across the 5 cylinders. The turbo is the one off my old engine, so the wastegate etc is good. It starts on the button even in what passes for winter in Cape Town (+4 at the lowest) and the one full tank of fuel it has had delivered essentially the same mileage as the old engine. Any ideas on what could be doing this?

Does it..... Matter?😏

The best for a cylinder will be having it bored out and a stainless steel liner fitted to it and then machine it to size again. Honing a corroded cylinder works for a while, but the seals never last long in my experience.

That's actually a great idea, as long as all the safety measures are in place. A 4 post lift would be better, IMO with the posts on each corner of the trailer and support feet directly below them for stability/safety.

+ one more!

If you are going to be 3D printing it as a prototype first, is there not a way to add some bosses to the side of the spacer and the sump to be drilled and tapped to take bolts to securely fit a heat shield to the sump casing as well as the exhaust, a sort of belt and braces thing?

That tack looks like it's pre-cracked....😜🤪

Agree, you should have a vendor that sells dry ice in the area, put whatever lube you need to on the barrel side and then pop it in a plastic bag to prevent condensation and into the dry ice for a few minutes. Make sure it's properly aligned and have a block and a sturdy buggering stick at hand to ease the last bit in if it gets recalcitrant, or do the job as close to the press as you can for the final push, if needed. A bit of heat to the block will also help, blast it with a heat gun for a while or an LP gas torch to expand the bore holes a tad.

Something along these lines should be fine, RS Components or similar will have various sizes and configurations. I'd personally go with a lever switch as it gives a bit more scope for slight misalignment/bad seating of the chuck key and will still switch as opposed to a button style switch.

A mate of mine has a GM 6.2 V8 on an R380 with a very similar arrangement.

For what I understand, in the Land Rovers the different TCs all fit any 4HP box, the difference being the TC to bell-housing fit that blocks the P38 TC being used for the Defender/Disco boxes due to its diameter.

The older Mercs have external pumps and filters.

That looks great! I'm planning something similar using a rather neglected Series 1 tub, and I'm going to build a chassis for it so it looks like the original chassis was modified to make it a trailer and it will be adorned with a (no internal parts) Salisbury diff running D2 wheels to match my tow vehicle.