JohnnoK

I'd say yes, provided you can get in with a drill to resize the hole for the helicoil and you can get the tap to turn nicely square and lined up etc.. You will obviously be drilling through both pieces with the larger drill, but that shouldn't affect the alignment of things as the rest of the bolts will hold it in place.

Off the top of my head, no forward, but still reversing is the A clutch pack.

I'd say a SpeediSleeve would be perfect for that application. I've only used them on helicopter transmissions before, but the same principles apply.

I got hold of a dry powder fire extinguisher and modified it with a tubeless tyre valve for inflating it and the fittings for 6mm nylon tube for oil delivery. Will take a picture when I am next in the garage.

Probably going to cost, but what about marine ply? Waterproof and good quality, seal it with SkiaFlex on the edges, rubber or polyurethane paint on the bottom for chipping/gouging/splashing and oil for the top.

Now, you have my attention...! Pity I'm at the arse end of the world, though. Out of interest, what would a pickup shell sell for?

Can't comment on the Zastavas, but my first car was an Austin Mini 1100 that became a 1275 with twin SUs when I cooked it thanks to that bloody bypass hose failing on me. Drove like the clappers and had shocking brakes, but I still regret "upgrading" to an Alfetta 2 liter. I used to drive it from Cape Town to East London to visit the folks every year, a 2100km round trip that was almost always a total hoot and attracted one or two speeding tickets along the way.😆

If you want to look into it, the Volvo 5 cylinder diesel turbos will fit and you get the added benefit of VNT with it, it does need some modifications to the existing waste gate actuator to make it work, but apparently gives a good result on driveability.

The remains of that 3x4 inch chunk should do nicely to fix that...

Like Fridge says, your configuration will determine troubleshooting. Some systems have a switch on the oil gallery that is Tee'd into the oil pressure transmitter location to power the pump when it senses oil pressure from cranking. If its a cobbled together system.......oh boy....

Wouldn't a tapered end mill of 11 degrees do the job as well as a reamer?

I honestly didn't think the crank handle hole would fit a 3/4'' drive, but that aside, this is a good plan.

Put your socket on a bar long enough to engage with the chassis rails, work out which way to push the vehicle to turn in a loosening direction in 2nd or 3rd gear, then with the ignition OFF give it a shove on that direction and the momentum of the vehicle should give he required power to break the torque of the nut against the chassis rail.

Thank you for the education!! Most appreciated!

You could also reliner that one cylinder and bore it to fit the existing piston, a new set of rings and bearings all round should see you on your way to a sound motor.

I can afford to retire right now, but I'll have to be bloody careful to make sure I'm back at work at the end of my off time, or I'm sunk...😭

That's what it is.

My "office" from late 2016 to mid 2020. Then from Jan 2021 till August And my present office Doing stuff like playing with scooby-doo wire.. And I get to take things to bits and reassemble them again

Wishing you well and a full recovery, Stephen!

Merry Christmas, everyone! Here's hoping Santa brought us all an end to the misery of Covid-inflicted tribulations.

Like any conversion, it all depends on how well it was done to begin with. Parts availability shouldn't be an issue for Landies, although there will obviously be items that are scarce, and then, it's down to the ability and interest level of the mechanic who did the job. Everything is bolt off/bolt on for the job, so I'd research what needs to be done to get an idea of where to look for things and then it should be a simple matter of identifying parts and checking workmanship. Happy hunting for your new buy!

My go-to degreaser is paraffin or petrol sprayed on, brushed in at he corners and crannies and then blasted off with the pressure washer or hosed off if that gives you the shivers. May need a repeat to be sure. Keying is a scourer pad or Scotchbrite to dull the glaze of the old paint and then paint away.

If you've got the money, TORMEK is the way to go.

I've seen heliport aprons made of less....😂

Back when I was a 'Prentice Lad, we had a 1.5m cubed stainless tank with a pneumatically lifted tray that rose out of the gunk in it to allow you to load and submerge the goodies you needed stripped. We called it the "Ardrox bath" probably because Ardrox made the stuff in it, but whoever arrived first at work had to turn on the heating element int the tank and drain the compressed air lines and then turn on the 5 gallon urn for coffee, in that order. I can remember having to use elbow length gloves to work there and my arms getting all tingly and pasty white from the vapour when it got under the gloves, it was so strong. The guy in charge of the overhaul shop left a main transmission casing in it over the weekend once and come Monday all that was left were the steel inserts for the bolts, the magnesium casing was GONE!!!