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JohnnoK

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Everything posted by JohnnoK

  1. Easy to fix... Allow the Police to react as per the guidelines for Assault with Intent and that will stop in its tracks. Nothing like a truncheon over the noggin and chrome bracelets to focus attention on the silliness of that idea.
  2. Once you have the puller on, a few carefully calibrated thumps with a buggering stick won't go amiss. Give it a squirt or 2 of your favourite penetrant beforehand, too.
  3. I just fitted the release bearing to my gearbox yesterday afternoon, and to get the release lever to engage the housing of the rlease bearing was a faff with the box on the floor, kudos to anyone who even TRIES it in-situ.... I also broke that fiddly plastic staple clip on the first try...
  4. Probably what I will do. There's a bit of an issue with my garage boundary to sort out first... it seems my council approved plans and the inspector coming around and approving my trenches when I built the garage weren't enough and I suddenly find I am a good half meter over the street side boundary....🥴 Where in SA are you?
  5. You are probably right with the tunnel lift, but I am going to use a chain block as primary lifting means through the tunnel hole and a jack for longitudinal correction. I have made up a small gantry that fits over the tunnel and that will hold the chain block nicely over the hole. I took the whole plate out, rather than faff through the gearstick hole, which will help move the lift point towards the TC a bit more. As for your pit..... bah, humbug! That is on the cards for me, but I believe the Monkeypality takes a dim view of such things. How is yours built? Bricks or a drop in prefab arrangement?
  6. Merry Christmas, everyone! Blessings, bounty and happiness to you all.
  7. If you can find the Buick V6 front cover it will have the uprated oil pump as standard fit and will fit onto your engine.
  8. Does anyone have an idea where the centre of balance is on the R380/LT230 combination? I am looking fore and aft only, not lateral, with the eye to where to hoist it to reinstall. Can it be done via the rubber boot hole for the shift stick or do I need to pull the whole panel out that holds the Hi/Low stick, too?
  9. Blimey! Some sharp skills there, Hat's off to you, sir.
  10. It could be your clutch release isn't pushing in far enough to fully disengage the friction plate, or, the input is binding on the spigot bush as it warms up.
  11. Absolutely agree! While you are at it, have a quick shufti around the yard to see where you could site another/others to haul dead ones in/out. You will probably have left over mix, so use it.
  12. Did you lube the inner surface of the seal with engine oil before fitting the pulley? If it is dry, the seal will generate heat and fail, causing it to leak, but in all fairness, it shouldn't be immediately when you rev it.
  13. Something like this? https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/bmw-m57-to-300tdi-r380-adaptor-kit/ From here.. https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product-category/adaptor-kits/
  14. Who makes/supplies the electrical connectors used in the Discovery 2? I want to tidy up my engine bay harnesses and need new pins and some connectors to do that. Alternatively, does someone know the name/series of the connectors so I can do a comprehensive Google search?
  15. The sunroof isn't watertight, by design. There is an internal tray around the perimeter of the window that is connected to drain pipes that run down the A & B pillar, check they are not blocked and it may be that your tray is rusted through if it has been blocked for long enough before.
  16. The Nanocom diagnostic box can do it, but it wouldn't surprise me if the OEM one couldn't. Maybe consider buying a Nanocom, if you intend keeping the Landy, better, too, if you have mates who have vehicles with OBD-II connectors, because all you will need then is to buy the software and the appropriate cable for the various models, and you can start making some side money doing diagnostics.
  17. You need the gearbox shift lever housing and the difflock actuator and mounting off a D1make that work. Remove the current shift lever housing and transfer the stick and springs etc over and refit, then bolt down the difflock lever and linkages. You will also need a D1 hi/lo actuating lever for the T/C as there is a difference between the 2, the D2 is straight and the hi/lo linkage won't line up properly, the D1 linkage is doglegged and that lines the selector rod up nicely. http://www.discovery2.co.uk/D1_to_D2_cdl.html
  18. You may have a leaking turbo hose to or from the intercooler. The hoses sometimes get pinhole leaks or the clamps aren't tightened properly.
  19. Tempting, but I wouldn't. A pressing reason why you shouldn't have will come to light, soon after you weld them...🤔
  20. A quick rummage on Google reveals that you may have this baby.
  21. I ended up getting an NSK release bearing, and will sell the HD one on.
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