Jump to content

Scandihoovian

Getting Comfortable
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Thanks for the info! Hopefully would get access to diagnostics in two weeks. Car will get its clutch done as well, hopefully removing some variables out of the equation... Will keep everyone updated when getting more info. Might help someone in the long run.
  2. And : To add more info : I have a webasto heater (scandi arctic pack). When it is on in the cold I can definitely hear a Click-Click sound from the fuel pump when it is cold. The same stall happens even without the webasto on as well. Fuel pump crapping out?
  3. Forgot to reply to this, Sorry! Owned 20+ different cars, petrol+diesel. Driven on top of that about 300+ different cars, vans+electric+muscle+offroad+etc. the closest car that I am very familiar with VW Transporter 4Motions (T5+T5.1) which I have driven some 500k km with and T5 has a similar displacement (2.5L) +bhp (130). Never, ever experienced this kind of behiavour with a diesel engine. Dont know what my experiences are worth...because #defender. Things are a bit different with this car..
  4. Oh. Being carp for brains, forgot couple things!!! : What I do have that I forgot to mention: i think my clutch is going out as well. DMF is shaking a bit when coming to a stop for few seconds or if you are taking of by sliding the clutch. Pinion bearing(?) have been screeching loudly now and then. The car starts moving from stop on flat surface quite normally. But on a cold start and trying to get uphill, hell, had to use 4low to get up from the yard yesterday. Second weirdness it when trying to get moving on slow speed (1st gear+reverse) the TC can kick in for a second (light comes on) and there is a churning sound from transfercase/gearbox area you can feel on brake pedal as well. Like the abs would be kick on. It goes away when pressing the clutch down. And the TC light can come on for a second if the right wheel hits a larger bump on slow speed with the "gccccrrrrrrrhh" sound as well, like the TC/Abs would kick in... What a goddamn mystery this is. Flanges were changed in the front few weeks back after front (right) wheelbearing decided to totally seize...after 1000kms... Could it be that the front diff is borked somehow, abs ring being damaged and that is feeding some weirdness to the ECU or whatnot? #baffled
  5. No atm. Between last spring when throttle was replaced only one TPS sensor error was logged. That was changed along the TPS sensor, have the old one as spare. Not afaik, unless the previous 4 owners have done some weird blanking as I nor the shop has noticed it! Hmm. Ok. Removed the MAF couple of weeks ago and it looked intact. The car was in the shop for fault code reading so I somehow presumed the shop would have noticed in diagnostics that the MAF gives wrong readings? Will check out if I can get a hand on a working MAF though, just to check it out. Weirdest thing, yes. Few things that have been nagging in the back of my head, "Could it be?" are : - what symptoms semi stuck EGR would do? - Some kind of leak in turbo hoses / crapping out actuator? And thx for the answers, greatly appreciated!
  6. Cheers! Havent driven that much in the last months so I can not say 100% sure if it has gotten worse or not. I would be tempted to say yes though, especially as weather has turned colder in the last few weeks (close or under 0c´) . There is no smoke of any kind under accelerations, whatsoever. Unplugged the MAF and did not notice difference either. The injectors "should" have been done properly, the shop who took did the repairs are about the most reputable around here. Took the car back few weeks ago and they rechecked the timing and cylinder pressure (right term?) and they said everything was up to the speck. A while back there were some weird things going on, the car went into "limp mode" now and then. Engine light came on, engine kept running but no response to throttle. Camshaft position sensor got changed, didnt help. In the end it was the throttle pedal that was borked and got replaced = Problem solved. BUT : The shop said few weeks ago that they found one Throttle position sensor fault when they checked... Wonder if there is something going on in the wiring loom between throttle and ecu? Could that kind of problems manifest that way?
  7. So, have had slight issues with my ´04 TD5 Defender, 200.000km. From a cold start it absolutely sucks at torq and I have to A) wait for the engine to warm up 5mins or B) use 4low to get out of my driveways small hill. Engine starts fine, on the first try. Engine runs evenly and does not have any extra noises. It even revs normally when on neutral. But, in gear and trying to get up that small (15%?) hill and it just start choking, stuttering and dies. History: - Blew the head gasket in jan & shop repaired it. It did not seem that engine suffered any extra damage. Gaskets have gone before as previous owner had installed the new AMC cover, but the previous owner failed to install it properly and it failed on me. - Injector nr 3 was changed few months after gasket job. - All the filters have been changed. - Fuel Pressure Regulator has been changed. - Throttle pedal crapped out few months ago and was changed. - Eyeballed MAP & MAF sensors and they looked ok. - Wiring loom on the engine side has been chaged. - Turbo wastegate was sticky and caused one overboost but now seems to move quite freely. - Turbo hose had a small oil leak but repaired, the shop said the turbo was ok though. When warm & highway engine performs relatively well. Pulls ok´ish on higher revs, can hold 120-130kmp/h but lacks the low range torque, imo. So, any guesses where to start to hunt for poor performance? Will get a nanocom in the couple of weeks, but could start troubleshooting in the meantime.. Thx in advance!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy