skirky dave

This is the worst rocker from the 19j which is in far better condition than any of the Sherpa's. These have since been fitted.

Yes, however the 19j caps was in tact and are flat without any marks. The picture of the timing case was in fact the 19j, and was probably looking a little worse than it was because i had already started to de/grease it.

As you can see, there is a lot of wear on the Sherpa's Rockers

As you can see guys, I'm just learning how to post images,,,but I'm getting there!! We all have to learn!. Dave.

needed cleaning this was a total mess!!!

don't know if this has worked

Les.. Yes , I see what you mean and i shall give that a go, maybe when i fitted the ends, somehow i managed to twist the shaft itself a millimetre or two. I shall re/check. As for posting pictures..their still giving me grief. However i shall persevere. Bowie 69,,,,,yep!!! that's what me mean in Yorkshire mate. And......it's,..... RAINING AGAIN!!!!!!.

Morning guys, So...i Stripped and cleaned the J19 td rocker shaft and although the j19's rocker's look far better than the Sherpa's, the j19 rocker shaft is so badly worn, with indents/ridges over the entire length of the shaft, Trying to remove the larger pedestals was a pain, stuck solid and i mean solid. The 19j engine had obviously suffered catastrophic damage at some point,.. BUT, i already knew this, which is why it was cheap, I only needed bits of it, .................................................................................. So,. to changing the rockers over to the Sherpa's rocker shaft. I took some shots of the shaft and the order that things fit. Applied fresh oil to the component parts and started putting it back together. During this process, the phone never stopped ringing..typical and i may have incorrectly replaced a certain part,..because now, with the engines timing marks lined up,,The Second Pedestal, The one with the additional screw fitted, Refuses to sit down square on the engine. If you stand at the front of the engine, it's the SECOND pedestal going towards the bulkhead that's causing the problem, the additional screw won't line up right, and when it does, the unit seems to be on the cockle, I think that one of two things might be happening here, either i have put the wrong one on,from the old unit or..i might have have to turn the crankshaft away from TDC.to get this to fit. I don't know......it's a bit of a mystery at the moment.

Morning guys, SNAGGER...What time did YOU get up this morning???., Before the worms by the sound of it!!!. Right,ok i shall check the 19j's motor first for the caps. Didn't cross my mind about those cap things. Havn't seen them on the Sherpa's so, as Les says, that's probably the cause of the damage to the Sherpa's rockers. The dents are quite deep. I should imagine they would give me a bit of grief trying to get the feeler gauges to read correctly. As suggested, i shall take photo's of the rockers and give them a good soak in Diesel. Got an old toothbrush to give them a good scrub up. That might give me a( ring of confidence) as Colgate used to say. Sorry. I was looking at replacing these in a couple of months time. My partner Sue, retires soon, (Teacher) and she said " if you want, i'll buy you some new one's for your b'day" After i've retired. So i looked up a company called Turner Engineering in Surrey. £150.00 for complete set of rockers and shaft. ( NOT BRITPART). Company seems to have a really good reputation. Until then...I shall fit this lot and take my time, cleaning bits etc, and then in a day or two, start her up and see how she sounds. 8.30 AM now, and itching to get at the other engine to see about the caps. Dave.

Well,....getting back to this forum has been a ROYAL PAIN, 12 times i.ve tried throughout the day and zilch. Anyway...Hi guys. The timing belt is on...at long last! but can't start her up until tomorrow.. Need Bigger Torque Wrench. My only concern/worry is that the Sherpa's timing mark is correct ( arrow to dot). I read somewhere, that the Sherpa's fuel pump was calibrated differently to that of the Land Rover's,which, maybe, is why the Sherpa's timing is to the F mark, On the pump timing wheel it looks like.. F 1 . SO F LINE DOT.. I remember once before, a friend of mine had timed the Sherpa's timing to the DOT and it sounded terrible and after talking to a mate of his who also ran a Sherpa, he confirmed it had to be timed to the F mark. This we did and it sound spot on Could this be , because the Sherpa has the longer timing belt and the additional idler, i don't know. Hope i don't have to re set the pump again and set it to the F mark. My fingers are crossed. Oh, and before i forget....B&Q are doing 5lts 20/50 for £10,50, in case anyone's interested. Cheers guys.

Morning Les, OK, bit confused here Les, BUT..before i explain why.....I was reading a few threads regarding the checking of tappets and what to look for. Well,..i was certainly in for a shock. After checked mine, i noticed DEEP circular dents on the foot of the lobe, Which is the part the feeler gauge measures . Sorry if my description is wrong but i'm sure you know the part i mean. Certainly can't afford to be buying new Tappets,Rocker Shaft etc at the moment. However...i then checked the tappets from the 19J TD engine and these all look OK. No wear that i can see at all. All uniform. But, just to be sure about the unit as a whole is ok, i thought i would strip it down, clean the oilways etc etc,, but how on earth are you supposed to take it appart. Can't find a youtube video describing how to strip down/ rebuild one. ..................................... Also,..Why make sure non of the pistons are at TDC, i can only think because it could bend a pushrod. If my train of thought is correct. Cheers Les.

Hi Snagger, Ok, cheers for that mate. Just one more thing i'm a little confused over!!.....Do i re/fit the rockers FIRST and then have a crack at the timing belt,... OR..Do i fit the timing belt first AND THEN the rockers. Which would be the easiest way to start. Cheers .

Right you are Les, We'll do. Just need it to stop raining.....no garage mate.

Right, ok,,,,So if i'm reading and understanding you correctly........Before i place the rocker shaft in place, i should slacken ALL the tappets off by their adjuster/ clearance screws,..THEN , as you suggest, Start with the big bolts in the middle by just nipping them up followed by the smaller bolts. Then Start torquing the big bolts and lastly the smaller ones. After which,..i can then start setting the tappet gaps. There would also appear, to be a debate as to just exactly what is the correct gap setting. For what i can gather, it's 10thou. Some say 9thou. Typical weather this morning in sunny Sheffield.....Raining.

Hi Les, NO no, not going off topic. I was just trying to explain why i hadn't been around for a few days. In fact i'm glad your here. because Iv'e got yet another question . I'm now starting to put this back together after collecting my parts this evening and i was just wondering..After putting the new push rods in place, is their a specific sequence for torquing down the rocker. I've found out the torque settings being 25Nm for all the bolts concerned but i can't find any information regarding a sequence. Dave.

Ok....Don't i feel a total IDIOT!!!!!!!, Found the MAIN cause why the Cam would not turn... BASICALLY it's my stupid fault. When transferred the timing chest over from the 19j TD to the 15j Sherpa, i already knew the diesel pump would fit too low and that new mounts had to be made. BUT,,What i didn't take into account was that the fuel pump support bracket that fits under the vacuum pump of the Sherpa's set up, would be miles too short to achieve this. In effect,the pump was only being supported by the 3 nuts of the fuel pump to the chest. So what was actually happening was the vacuum pump bolts were tightening down onto the Camshaft!! Because there was no spacer, created by the support bracket under the vacuum pump. This was the reason the Camshaft couldn't move. AAAAAARGH. The lights of the Christmas Tree suddenly came ON !!!. The way i had the accelerator cable set up on the Sherpa's pump worked very very well and i didn't really want to change it. Anyway.....I took off the vacuum pump,and then placed the accelerator bracket / vacuum bracket with the one off the 19jTD .I then refitted the vacuum pump and 3 fixing bolts and WALLA. The pump turns without any problems, What a numpty i thought to myself. Just for good measure, i then took everything back off again and shone a torch as far as i could along the camshaft to check for any damage.All appears to be ok. Put it all back together AGAIN!! and all is well. ALSO...the accelerator fits the new bracket BETTER than before. Everything has married up perfect, Couldn't be better. Getting new push rods today and other bits so ...can't wait. My son is bringing me his digital torque wrench from work so hopefully the timing belt will be sorted either this evening or over the weekend.. We live and learn!!!. .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. Snagger...t Sorry to hear also about your back problems.. I was told, years ago (1980) that an operation could be performed on my back but in doing so, there was a very real risk of me ending up in a wheel chair ( suffered severe spinal shock).. for the rest of my life. So i decided to grin and bare it. They also wanted to put me into, what can only be described as a women's support girdle. Which at 20yrs old is not a good image. But get this....THEY.. (The Specialist Doctors) told me i should sleep on a wooden board for the next 18 MONTHS!! because this would benefit my injury. 1980's medical knowledge . NOW (2016) They say ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! IT CAN MAKE IT WORSE!!! You need to keep moving and exercising the back muscles or they can seize up. Glad i didn't have the operation.

Hi again Snagger,hows it going. I'm still getting over a trapped spinal nerve. Really really painful.But getting there now. Thanks again for the heads up. The compression,although without testing,,,seems ok. The push rods were only slightly bent compared to the last time when they were bent like a letter S. I do have a new set of valve stem seals to fit along with genuine land rover oil stem seals. There was no carbon build up on the rods either which, according to Paddocks Video Tool Locker would be a sign of head gasket failure. So ok there then. As for the engine mount problem.....I didn't have the engine mounts from the 19j. It was sold to me without these. Also...from just about everywhere i looked and read, everyone said the main problem with fitting a land rover 2.5N/A or 200tdi into a series vehicle was,..the that the chassis leg had to be removed (Drivers Side/Offside) because the fuel pump sat too low and fouled the chassis. So the chassis leg had to be cut off and mounted lower down. I was not aware an existing mount could be placed in situ to avoid the hassle of removing the chassis leg. If i'm not mistaken,..i think Glencoyne land rovers also mention this when converting a series landy to a 200Di. So...armed with this knowledge, i decided to fabricate my own engine/chassis mount ONTO my EXISTING CHASSIS LEG. This way, i could fasten the mount in place with two bolts and simply remove it, if i wanted to in the future should a 2.25 diesel turn up. Without having to grind off yet another chassis leg and re/welding again. Apart from which,..i don't have an engine hoist, my driveway is on a slope. a bit daunting really. AND not forgetting that many years ago i had an accident in the steel works and was hit in the back with a tractor rear axle which is why i still suffer from back problems. So i have to be very careful when lifting etc. Or i end up in agony. I'm just getting over my last stint which was very painful. But i wish i had known you before Snagger, your knowledge would have saved me a lot of hassle fabricating a new mount to both the engine and chassis leg. As they say...it's not what you know but who..... Cheers Snagger Dave.

LES.. Found out the problem.... I removed the vacuum pump and walla....the CAMSHAFT MOVES. If you hadn't mentioned the fact that the camshaft OPERATES vacuum and lift pump...i woudn't have known to check it !!!!!!!!!. Now just got to re/check just what i did wrong as i thought the vacuum pump only fitted one way. Obviously it doesn't. THIS IS ONE OF THOSE THINGS TO REMEMBER!!. Anyway, cheers Les..legend. Dave.

Oooooo this doesn't sound good. I have no idea what this could be. Starting to think it maybe game over, I was only doing 10-15 mph when the belt snapped.. Anyone else had this problem ( he asked...hopefully). I did remove the vacuum pump so i could use the bracket off the 19j engine to support the Sherpa Diesel pump. As it sits lower and needs the support bracket. I'LL take the vacuum pump off and see if that makes any difference. Can't help but feel a little worried about this.

Sorry i didn't mean ..( Will it help if i turn the Crankshaft away from it's timing marker so i can get the Crankshaft wheel timed correctly) I meant to say Will it help if i turn the Crankshaft away from it's timing mark so i can get the CAMSHAFT wheel timed correctly. As in MOVE!! Cheers again Les.

Hi Les. Ok, let me start at the beginning so i don't cause any confusion. The timing belt snapped,so i decided to fit the chest off the j19 engine as you are aware. This has, so far, gone ok'ish. Sherpa Fuel pump fitted and lined up with the dot as you stated before as opposed to the F mark. Crankshaft turns with ratchet ok AND is lined up with the woodruff key and pointer at the 12 o clock position ......no belt fitted at this time!!!. The tappets/shaft was remove this morning so i could remove the bent push rods. And yes they were bent!!. Waiting for new push rods and other parts to arrive tomorrow. Problem is...i can't shift the Camshaft. Could you point me in the right direction as to sorting this out as the old bent push rods are already out so there is nothing to cause a resistance.. Will it help if i turn the Crankshaft away from it's timing marker so i can get the Crankshaft wheel timed up correctly. Cheers Les.

I suppose what i'm asking ,is,..WITHOUT the timing belt fitted, Should the cam wheel be free to turn with my fingers just like the Diesel pump is. Am i missing something here???????

Hi guys, Only just got started with this engine over the last couple of days. Pulled my back badly a couple of weeks ago and been in agony for most of the time. Could hardly shift. Anyway.. i need to ask a serious question before i continue with this engine. At the moment i have replaced the pully wheels BUT the camshaft wheel will not spin/ turn. The diesel pump obviously turns by hand and so will the crankshaft but NOT the camshaft. The landy is OUT of gear with one rear wheel off the ground. The free wheel hubs are engaged to 4x4,..Do these need disengaging Also, does it require the timing belt fitting so that the belt turns the camshaft. I have seen youtube video's regarding the changing of the timing belt and also read posts by LES but this situation has me puzzled as i haven't seen this problem before. Or is it just me . Also..the rockers and shaft have been removed. Cheers Dave.

Bowie69.. Thanks for that my mate. As soon as my son pops in..I'M HAVING A CRACK AT THAT!!!. BIG TIME. Many thanks All the best Dave.

Ok mate cheers for that. Standard square mounts were ordered and delivered. Been busy sorting this problem out with the fuel pump catching the new rubber mount.Had to re/angle the engine bracket somewhat which cleared the fuel pump, no problem,. BUT.. CAUSED ME A FEW HEADACHES!!. Because the angle was changed, this meant the rubber mount wouldn't lay flat on the chassis leg. Royal Pain!!!. There was now a gap of 30mm from bottom of rubber mount to chassis at one end and 10mm to chassis at the other. SO..After a few paracetamol and cups of tea.with the odd fag thrown in for good measure..i came up with a plan. Using scrap 1'4 thick angle iron, i set about making a couple of wedges to fit the gap with a piece of steel plate on the top. Thus allowing the rubber mount to sit perfectly. Instead of drilling a hole for the rubber mounts nut and bolt to fasten to,..i decided to cut out a section of parallel lines running up the plate TOWARDS the drill hole. In effect, this creates a SLIDING PLATE. The plate can be moved (slid) up or down the chassis leg to allow the rubber mount fixing bolt to be passed threw the plate and chassis leg and finally tightened up. Once this is done...i can then weld a further plate at the end of the wedge (THICK END), DRILL THROUGH and attach with bolt to chassis leg. SIMPLY PUT..i now have the option of removing the wedged plate and the engine mount by removing 3 bolts and going back to a 21/4 diesel should i wish or replacing with a 200DI. WITHOUT having to cut off the ORIGINAL chassis leg. WISH I KNEW HOW TO POST PICTURES, THIS IS INFURIATING!!!. Joined photo bucket but it will not allow me to drag and drop images,...Not allowed or something like that. PLUS THE IMAGE FILES are too big??????????. Anyway...the images are still on my computer and as soon as i can fathom out HOW to put them on here and make them smaller,.. with an underlined description of what they mean etc etc,.i shall. To see the images would certainly make more sense along with an explanation. Anyway....back to the grindstone. Cheers Dave.