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About Bigj66

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    North Wales

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  1. 6cyl SWB?

    Cheers. Yeah I could see how that could work and I probably have an engineering company that could do that. If using a spacer I will then need to source flywheel bolts that are 5mm longer than standard. Does anyone know what thread size the flywheel bolts are? The 2.6 and 3.0 ones are the same length.
  2. 6cyl SWB?

    I’m not sure I’ve explained myself very clearly about what is concerning me about having the end of the crankshaft opened up to accept the larger spigot bush boss off the 2.25 petrol flywheel so I found a good YT clip from Paddocks and screenshot some bits that might help explain things better. This is my crank where the flywheel attaches. This is from the auto 3.0 and has an 18mm diameter hole in it which is about 20mm deep. This is a picture of the 2.25 petrol flywheel, same diameter as the 2.6 so should fit within the 2.6 flywheel housing. The boss in the centre on the crank side has a 5mm raised boss within which the spigot bush is fitted. As I understand it the purpose of the raised boss is to centrally locate the flywheel against the crankshaft by sitting inside a matching recess on the crankshaft, in this case the 18mm one. General overview of the flywheel and clutch arrangement. My concern (which may be unfounded) is that by opening up the crank hole to accept the larger diameter flywheel boss, the flywheel and the clutch assembly that is bolted to it, will in effect move 5mm closer to the engine and may cause problems for the operation of the clutch. For instance the clutch friction plate moves along the splined section of the gearbox input shaft and one worry is that once the flywheel is fitted to the modified crank, the splined section of the input shaft will be 5mm too short and this may cause problems for the smooth movement of the friction plate on the spline. Will things such as the operation of the release arm or the clutch push rod be affected and if so could I just use a longer push rod like one off a Disco to compensate? Hope these photos help explain the concerns better and as always would appreciated any input or advice. A manual crankshaft off a Rover may be a straight swap for the auto but I’m still trying to get confirmation of that. One other option is to fit the Westlake head to the standard 2.6 engine if it can be done.
  3. 6cyl SWB?

    Flywheel boss is 35mm diameter by 5mm deep. Existing crank recess is 18mm diameter by approximately 20mm deep. If I open the crank boss out to accept the flywheel boss the flywheel will move towards the engine by that 5mm overall due to the thinner 2.25 petrol flywheel compared to the original thicker 3.0 auto flywheel ring gear/TC with the smaller diameter boss. This may well be ok if it doesn’t affect clutch function hence the original request for more experienced input. I don’t think the top hat solution would work in this scenario but happy to be corrected.
  4. 6cyl SWB?

    The problem is that if I space the flywheel off the crank by 5mm I will lose the centralising function of the spigot boss to the crank.
  5. 6cyl SWB?

    Hej Soren. The 2.25 petrol flywheel should bolt straight on and fit within your flywheel housing if I was to open out the hole in the crank flange to 35mm. Problem is that this would then move the flywheel 5mm further towards the engine and I’m just not sure what if any, effect that would have on the operation of the clutch push rod. Would pedal travel be affected or would there still be enough spline length left on the first motion shaft to allow the clutch to engage and disengage correctly given the flywheel would be sat further away from the gearbox Without having a pile of parts to experiment with its hard to judge. I’m told a manual crankshaft may be interchangeable with the auto one so I’m still investigating that option at the moment. I was also wondering if the 3.0 Westlake head would fit the LR 2.6 block as a lot of the power seems to come from that (in addition to the additional cc)? Possibly the camshaft too if it’s a bit more pokey?
  6. 6cyl SWB?

    Last chance saloon - I’m going to see if the crank off the P5 manual is directly interchangeable with that of the auto. If not then the Softdash gets the restoration and the Series stays as is.
  7. 2.25 Petrol vacuum

    Craddocks etc still sell the fittings to use the servo port in the head.
  8. Colour scheme '63 Station Wagon

    Personnally I prefer a more Matt finish to a Series Landrover for no other reason than I just think it looks better.
  9. 6cyl SWB?

    I did initially think of ‘filling in’ the recess in the back of the flywheel with a spacer to make it flush with the crank face but realised that the raised spigot boss is needed to sit in the crank and locate the flywheel. In addition to the central spigot boss the recess on the back of the flywheel also needs to sit over the end of the crank for the same reason. If you were thinking about a ‘top hat’ style spacer I’m not sure how that would work with the crank hole being 18mm diameter and the flywheel boss 35mm diameter. Wouldn’t the thickness of the material required to make the boss push the flywheel further from the engine than the 5mm I need or have I misunderstood what you were referring to?
  10. 6cyl SWB?

    Turns out the 2.25 petrol flywheel is the same thickness as the 2.6 so I’d still be left with it further towards the engine than it would usually be. Could this have an effect on clutch operation?
  11. valve stem seals

    I very much doubt the original factory tolerance was anywhere near 0.1mm 😐 You’ve done a good job there and should have confidence that with a decent gasket the engine will run fine. Good luck with the rest of the rebuild.
  12. 6cyl SWB?

    I’ve decided not to remove that raised area on the flywheel as it helps to centre the flywheel correctly on the crank. What I need to do is have the crank centre hole opened up to accept the boss on the flywheel instead. I just need the 2.25 flywheel to be about 5mm thicker than the 2.6 one now. 2.6 is 35mm.
  13. 6cyl SWB?

    Thanks for the info 👍. Thinking this through a bit more, if I trim the raised part of the spigot bush off the flywheel centre then in effect I will be moving the flywheel 5mm away from the gearbox and so the FMS, being attached to the gearbox, will remain in its position but will sit 5mm rearwards of the flywheel and the clutch will sit 5mm further away from the box on its splines. The position of the FMS is fixed by the bell housing and the flywheel housing depths which are standard sizes so the question now is, will moving the flywheel and clutch plate 5mm away from the gearbox have any detrimental effect? One other thing that may affect the outcome would be if there is any difference in the depth of the 4&6 cylinder bellhousings or the thickness of the 4 cylinder petrol flywheel compared to the 6 cylinder one as that could increase, decrease or have no effect at all on the position of the FMS. Only other option would be to open up the hole in the crank to accept the boss on the flywheel but the outcome would be the same. I could really do with a big pile of parts to mix and match and experiment with 😐
  14. Seat belt dilemma

    Quite right, and as I’ll most likely go with a purpose made bar for the shoulder anchor point from the likes of Exmoor Trim etc then I should be able to achieve this. Makes me laugh though when you see those old Landrover archive films with vehicles off-roading up hill and down dale with no roof or windscreen on and packed to the gunnels with people front and back hanging on for dear life 😊
  15. Seat belt dilemma

    Current arrangement is this Belt passes over my shoulder but over time it wouldn’t do the seat any good and only offer limited protection in the event of a bump.