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Bigj66

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Bigj66 last won the day on August 19 2018

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About Bigj66

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  1. I did the same conversion to my TD5 110 which is tuned to around 160hp. You can feel the increase in gearing compared to standard but as I don’t tow or carry any heavy kit regularly, I find the higher gearing better for motorway work without noticing any real difference in about town driving. Engine noise is reduced a bit at higher speeds but I also removed the straight through exhaust on mine at the same time the T-box was changed so difficult to tell which one made the greater difference. Not sure how it would be with a standard tune engine though. I’m also on 235s.
  2. I fitted a Defender heater to my S3 and it works really well.
  3. As soon as it gets a run it’s up to normal temp and the heater works well so I think the cooling system itself is healthy. Will look at the heaters as I was going to fit one for overnight camping anyway.
  4. Has anyone removed their viscous fan and is now running an electric fan such as a Kenlowe on their TD5? Any issues with doing this for this engine as my heater only produces a decent amount of heat when on a long run and pottering about town or short runs is very uncomfortable in this weather 🥶. At idle the temperature gauge hardly moves out of the blue as the engine just isn’t getting hot enough.
  5. Meter earth was on the engine block so should be pretty good.
  6. I’ve been trying to buy the Landreizger loom for a while but they are out of stock at the moment and didn’t reply to an email a few weeks ago when I asked about future availability.
  7. Wired the light bar separately through a relay this afternoon but checking on the voltage at the headlights I got 9.5v on the dipped beam circuit and 11.5v on the main beam, and that was with the engine running. Need to look at those again but now that I have the light bar coming on with the main beam then I could just look at upgrading the dipped beams and leave the mains alone. I might be able to do something at the back of the dash with those rather than fit more relays into the engine bay. Also tried to undo the nut on the live post of the alternator but the whole post started to turn so I left it be and just placed another nut onto the remaining thread of the post with the cable lug sandwiched between the two. Is that nut always difficult to undo? I had visions of ripping wiring off if I continued to turn it.
  8. I was planning on doing the loom upgrade for my 2004 TD5 but checking under the bonnet I notice that there each headlight is fed by a separate loom with individual colour codes. Does this mean that Landrover had already sorted out the issue with the switch overload by 2004 or does it mean that I will need 4 separate relays to provide a new alternator post feed to the lights? Failing that are the 2 relays for the later models fitted behind the instrument binnacle rather than under the bonnet so that the separate feed to each main and dipped beam can be wired to them? I also have a 72w light bar that I want to come on with the main beam so I believe a 30amp relay suffice for the total load?
  9. Cheers. I took a look at the fitting instructions on their website but will need to check to see if I have the same underfloor structure as they show in their photo. https://www.sidesteps.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/defender-110-steps-fitting.pdf Failing that I’ll just go for the single steps.
  10. I bought some fire and ice ones and when I came to fit them there was nothing except the wheel arch space at the rear so I had to send them back. Even the supplier was a bit puzzled. This is a view of the underside.
  11. Cheers, I’ll keep searching. I think the issue is that there is no rear floor support to attach the rear fixing to but as with yours, maybe someone has found a way around that.
  12. Does anyone know of a supplier of side steps for a TD5 110 3 door van? There seems to be lots available for the station wagon but finding some for the 3 door with the different body mounting points is proving to be elusive. Are the fold away steps the only option for this model?
  13. I’ve also been looking at some form of night heater for when I go camping in the 110. Where is the normal place to install one of these units? Inside or outside and where in particular to minimise loss of internal space? I’d like to fit a bed in the back of mine so the location of warm air outlet(s) will be important and I’ve removed my seat bulkhead. Can the space under the centre seat be used? How does the fuel supply tap into the tank on a TD5? Do you need to fit a new fuel pickup into the tank or can you tap into a non-pressurised line at the fuel pump? Any photos of what others have done would be great.
  14. Cheers, it’s good to know that the gearchange will improve over time. Only done a few hundred miles at the moment so will keep an eye on it. The supplier recommended to use ATF in the box so hopefully that is all good. 👍
  15. I’ve just had a rebuilt R380 gearbox fitted to my 110 after a 5th bearing failure on the previous box. I’m finding with this new box that the gear change is very stiff and getting it in and out of the gates is quite difficult at times. I have the same synchro gears quick shift fitted as was in the original box and up until the point of failure the gearchange was quite slick on that so I’m at a loss as to what’s causing this. Clutch is new as is flywheel etc so I’m wondering if there is an adjustment of some description that can be made to improve the shift? 5th to 4th is particularly tight coming down the box.
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