If you’re ok with the noise level of a 300 and aren’t after V8 performance then it could be a good solid conversion especially if you have all the bits there.
Fitting the auto box to the chassis requires a bit of work but other than that it should be fairly straightforward.
I opted to convert my front axle to CVs to retain the permanent 4WD but others have just kept it standard.
Just a heads up (and I’m not trying to scare you) but back in the day it was common for stolen engines to have their number destroyed to prevent it being traced by punching over the numbers to make them illegible.
Just with you saying the machined surface isn’t smooth I wanted to highlight this but it should be obvious that the surface is peppered with dents and looks like the surface of the moon.
A draughty cab will not affect the heater output temperature only the air temperature inside.
Is the cooling system plumbed in as per the original design? I’m not sure how it works with the TDi conversion🤷♂️
If so then as others have said the issue lies with one of the cooling system components. As far as I can remember these engines have no heating issues when fitted to their original vehicle so in my mind the issue lies with either the conversion setup or a component not working correctly.
It will be interesting to see what you find.
I went with Flux in the end as they offered a decent policy and recovery at a price well below any of the others. All mods declared and agreed valuation.
It’s time to look at alternatives to NFU for my insurance as they don’t do classic vehicle policies and I no longer use the series for work.
I know I’ll be opening up a can of worms with this question but I’m looking for recommendations for companies that will cover modified classic vehicles. I know there’s a few who advertise in the mags etc but I’d like a heads up on ones to avoid as a result of poor service etc and ones where the service and any claim handling has been good.
Does anyone know if these galvanised loops are original LR parts? They were fitted to my tub behind the seats and screwed into the captive nut under the transverse capping.
I always thought they were anchor points for the static seat belt as the thread is the same but I can’t find any when I search so maybe they were off something else?
I’m looking for another pair.
Can a Defender master cylinder fit to a 109 servo? Are the rod lengths compatible?
I thought you needed the Defender pedal box, servo and master to work together? Maybe not, interesting 👍