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Everything posted by Bigj66

  1. Bigj66

    Poly bush kits

    Did that kit come with the 8 washers? If so which bush and shackle do they fit between?
  2. You could maintain the diff nose angle by clocking the swivel flange to the axle casing but you might need to weld up some holes on the axle casing and redrill them.
  3. Ok if they don’t work out for me then they’re yours👍
  4. Yes. I was thinking that the ends that I trimmed may be cranked to provide more curve to the spring so it will be interesting to see how it looks when they’re fitted particularly the ride height. If it doesn’t look right then they’ll go in the skip.
  5. Bigj66

    Poly bush kits

    I can’t call Dingocroft to ask as they are closed so will keep looking.
  6. Painted now so will apply some grease before fitting.
  7. Bigj66

    Poly bush kits

    Just to clarify this, I wasn’t referring to Floflex. Been there, done that, never again. It’s these https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Full-set-Ser1--Ser2-and-SWB-Ser3-ZZPOLYDYNASET04.html#SID=160 Anyone got any experience of them?
  8. Bigj66

    Poly bush kits

    No, and to be honest, for everyday road driving, I think they don’t represent value for money. For more extreme work or towing etc then yes, maybe. Ive found some ‘dynamic’ compound ones that are mid range in terms of price and which might be ok. Only problem is thet they’re orange 🤨
  9. Yes but the leaves still make contact in a couple of places at the ends. My thoughts are to just paint them too as that’s how they come as standard and I’ve never heard of parabolics being greased but thought I’d ask anyway before I reassemble them. That said, the paint won’t last long either 🤷‍♂️
  10. As per title, what have you found that works best when refurbishing leaf springs?
  11. Anyone used these Britpart poly bush kits? Any good or are there better ones out there? I prefer the ease of fitting with these so don’t want to stick with the original bushes. https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/dc7103-britpart-swb-black-polyurethane-bush-kit.html
  12. From that thread: “Update............. Just had a hard lesson today on my setup!! Standard wheels will not fit!! how did i discover it? well the hard way! Got a puncture this morning on my way to work, stopped at the road side to change it................. jacked up, changed wheel......... the damn thing was jammed up against the caliper................grrrr.................... had to remove a rear wheel, to install it in the front and my standard spare at the rear........... Lesson learnt............ Standard rover wheels will not fit my front disc conversion............................... G”
  13. I did but I believe the wheel choice is very limited with this conversion. Standard wheels will not clear the callipers for example.
  14. I think it’s been discussed as a general coil axle to leaf spring conversion option. Unfortunately, I need to retain my series axles and in any case I don’t want to fit coil axles to my project. I’m more focussed on ways to graft coil hubs onto leaf axles but the discussion is throwing up a sorts of useful advice and information for others with different aims 👍
  15. Same here. I love a challenge and enjoy the discussion but there’s a line for me that I won’t cross.
  16. Cheers, I suspect that the author of the post I read initially was getting diff nose angle and caster angle confused. Perils of the interweb...😐
  17. I mentioned in this post that I’d read some information which stated the caster angle on a coil axle was different to that of a leaf axle, 12 degrees compared to 3 degrees. Reading up again on the subject, it seems that some people believe that the two are actually the same at 3 degrees. To avoid any further confusion for myself or anyone who may also be looking for this information, does anyone know for certain what that angle is, where I can find it documented or can recommend a way for me to measure it accurately from the axle I have? I think, in the interests of safety, it’s important that this sort of information is unambiguous and supported with some form of evidence if possible.
  18. An optical illusion it was 🙈
  19. I got impatient waiting so I popped a front wheel off the 110 to take a looksee. The wheels are set straight ahead and from what I can see, the TCA taper hole is definitely inboard of the top swivel pin and looks to be in line with the centre line of the axle as discussed earlier. In other words, slightly inboard of the kingpin line as it should be 👍 I placed a long bolt on the centre of the top swivel pin to try and give a visual reference point between the various positions. Again, it’s no big drama if the track rod has to remain at the rear.
  20. Can’t the complete housing be swapped? I am a bit confused though because when I looked at the 110 yesterday, it looks like the TCAs are outboard of the kingpin pivot point and not inside it as the Ackermann principal suggests it should be for a rear track rod.🤷‍♂️ We’re going to have some fun when I get this axle delivered that’s for sure 🤣
  21. For me personally, I will only go with a bolt on solution and if there isn’t one then so be it. The track rod at the front is a nice to have not a need to have but I’m finding the discussion very interesting and learning a lot so that’s win 👍. There’s been some good suggestions thrown up and lots of useful contributions but now I think the next step is to get an axle on the workshop floor and try to see what works and what doesn’t. On the subject of the calliper position, am I correct in thinking that the coil sprung caster angle is somewhere in the region of 12 degrees and that the leaf sprung caster is 3 degrees? My plan is to rotate the swivel ball to achieve a caster closer to that of the leaf sprung axle although if I end up with a few degrees of additional angle (5-6) then I don’t think that will have any major adverse effects on steering. If the swivel housings are swapped over to get the track rod to the front of the axle then I’m guesstimating that the callipers will be sitting in the 1-2 o’clock position and that rotating the swivel clockwise to correct the caster angle will move the calliper closer to the 3 o’clock position where conflict with the TCA is more likely? All this on the current assumption that there is no change in spring shackle length or wedging of the axle pad. This in itself may end up as a show stopper.
  22. Interesting....🤔 So (theoretically 😉) swap them left to right and then use the coiler TCA ball joint mounts up front? Then use a kit like the Steve Parker one to connect the drag link to the track rod? Clearance wise, the coiler swivel ball will need to be rotated anyway to get it to the correct 3 degrees of caster that the series axle runs at so that may or may not help. What is it that makes a coiler swivel housing handed? Is it just the position of the arms or anything to do with the position the pins are located in the casting? On a coiler isn’t the arm cast into the housing? The calliper mounting points would also change wouldn’t they? Maybe not a bad thing though if it helped avoid the shock absorber. My two series ones seem identical except for the drain plug location. I think the only way to find out for sure with all of this would be to get an axle on the workshop floor and play about with different configurations taking measurements as you go. I have two coil axles on order so when they arrive I’ll do just that.
  23. Interesting as to how that affects a 90 and 110. Presumably the Landrover engineers settled for a happy medium between the two?
  24. Great illustration, thanks for taking the time to do it.👍 I knew there was a difference but this shows just how much it would likely be.
  25. You see? Ackermann is the last thing I need to be worried about 🙈🤯
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