Bigj66

If you’re ok with the noise level of a 300 and aren’t after V8 performance then it could be a good solid conversion especially if you have all the bits there. Fitting the auto box to the chassis requires a bit of work but other than that it should be fairly straightforward. I opted to convert my front axle to CVs to retain the permanent 4WD but others have just kept it standard.

Just a heads up (and I’m not trying to scare you) but back in the day it was common for stolen engines to have their number destroyed to prevent it being traced by punching over the numbers to make them illegible. Just with you saying the machined surface isn’t smooth I wanted to highlight this but it should be obvious that the surface is peppered with dents and looks like the surface of the moon.

A draughty cab will not affect the heater output temperature only the air temperature inside. Is the cooling system plumbed in as per the original design? I’m not sure how it works with the TDi conversion🤷‍♂️ If so then as others have said the issue lies with one of the cooling system components. As far as I can remember these engines have no heating issues when fitted to their original vehicle so in my mind the issue lies with either the conversion setup or a component not working correctly. It will be interesting to see what you find.

It was used in a scam advert on FB. Removed now.

Merry Christmas everyone. I wish you all peace and happiness for 2024.

8.5k

Does anyone know the owner of this series 1? It’s for sale on Car and Classic.

I think that’s always the risk with any company so yeah hopefully I’ll never need to find out.

I went with Flux in the end as they offered a decent policy and recovery at a price well below any of the others. All mods declared and agreed valuation.

Thanks all. Some good advice to follow up on 👍

It’s time to look at alternatives to NFU for my insurance as they don’t do classic vehicle policies and I no longer use the series for work. I know I’ll be opening up a can of worms with this question but I’m looking for recommendations for companies that will cover modified classic vehicles. I know there’s a few who advertise in the mags etc but I’d like a heads up on ones to avoid as a result of poor service etc and ones where the service and any claim handling has been good.

Does anyone know if these galvanised loops are original LR parts? They were fitted to my tub behind the seats and screwed into the captive nut under the transverse capping. I always thought they were anchor points for the static seat belt as the thread is the same but I can’t find any when I search so maybe they were off something else? I’m looking for another pair.

My rev counter is fired from the Thor ECU. I could only find one ECU type and it wasn’t Durite. I thought the Durite ones were W connection fed?

Has your wife ever seen a Series Landrover? 😉

Can a Defender master cylinder fit to a 109 servo? Are the rod lengths compatible? I thought you needed the Defender pedal box, servo and master to work together? Maybe not, interesting 👍

I also had those symptoms in my Thor V8 and when removing the heads for a gasket change noticed the head bolts came out quite easily which I wasn’t expecting. No sign of damage on the gaskets and it’s been fine since so my assumption was that the heads had been incorrectly torqued down during a previous gasket change.

I’m not sure if it’s just the photo but is the red spring attached to the right side shoe? Or do you have it on the snail cam post?

Or just offer him a low price and sort the engine out yourself if you’re happy with everything else.

Hoping someone has a bikini top fitted and can answer my question. It might save me having to make one. I need to know if it’s possible to fit an off the shelf one without using the two brackets that fit between the screen and the door upright. If the straps are all tensioned up properly around the hoop will it stay in place and not flap around too much?

I have 154 pages of my drivel which in addition to getting valuable feedback and advice off the chaps, also serves as a record in case I forget how I did something. Which happens quite often…… 😬 Fear not and get it started 👍

How is your oil filter clearance to the axle or are you using a remote?

I’m more focused on accuracy of the between centres dimension that they have rather than a bit of distortion on the bends. It’s a motorsport grade hoop made from cold drawn steel with matching side bars and it will be located via two adapters into the existing front hoop slots on the tub. That’s where the accuracy between centres comes in. The side bars will be bolted to the main hoop via welded clamps and then bolted through the tub capping with a spreader plate. Seatbelt mounts and foam side padding will also be added. Everything is on order so I’ll update my build thread with photos once it arrives.

Cheers but I’ve now ordered a purpose built one from Tube Bender. I’ll need to put it together myself and get some other bits made for it but the main hoop and side bars will be done.👍

No, too tall. I want something just slightly taller than the screen height. I also want some longitudinal bars to my own design. I could adapt one I suppose but they’re quite hard to come by and pricey when the do come up.

Reason for the post was that I want to build a seatbelt bar/hoop that will accommodate a bikini type canvas and anchor the seatbelts. Not as high as a standard hoop and about twice as thick in diameter just for aesthetics. Ive found a company that should be able to provide the hoop and side braces for me so I just need to design the interface with the tub structure but it’s definitely not for competitions just normal road use.