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Bigj66

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Everything posted by Bigj66

  1. Cold start injector staying open? Is it running rich when warmed up? Coolant temperature sensor fault?
  2. I’m unfamiliar with the speedunio thingy but I have an Emerald K6 in my Cosworth Capri and Emerald say it will quite happily run a 2.25 petrol engine with that single point throttle body and a coil pack. Definitely on the list of things to do when the restoration starts.
  3. Get an MOT, it records the engine number and CC if I recall correctly.
  4. Once you’ve checked and sorted out your heater you could consider fitting a heated screen. If you put it on straight away it won’t get a chance to mist up and any that does will soon clear quickly.
  5. The Jenveys would make it cost prohibitive but with that single point throttle body it certainly becomes doable and probably something I will dig into a bit deeper as I’ve never heard of that speedunio gizmo before and presumably it’s just a mappable ECU?
  6. ACR do a distributor less ignition system and heads, cams, exhausts etc are already available off the shelf so if that universal throttle body would do the fuel job then it just needs that speedunio gizmo to control the fuel and ignition doesn’t it? It seems then that all the bits are there to do the job.
  7. Depends on how much mileage you do. If it’s not much then could the series be your daily?
  8. ACR are only down the road from me and I have seen some of the stuff they do although all their engines seem to stick with carbs. I have a mappable ECU on my Capri and have seen it done to many engines, just not to a Series one which got me thinking...
  9. Anyone ever fitted fuel injection throttle bodies like these to a 2.25 petrol engine? https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-and-components/throttle-bodies/heritage-dcoe/heritage-twin-tbody-40-48mm-pair-tdp40-48 Out of curiosity I was wondering what power gains could be got from this engine with porting the head, increasing compression and converting to mappable fuel and ignition systems. Maybe a different cam for good measure....
  10. Not sure about the 109 but it looks a decent piece of kit. Can’t see any prices quoted though.
  11. Quick update. Car went back into the garage to get the new injector seals checked and one was showing signs of blow by. All were replaced and the issue has been resolved. Normal starting has resumed.
  12. Spoke to All Wheel Trim. Apparently I would need to fit some sort of additional bulkhead behind the existing one and move the spare wheel to get their canvas top to fit. Never mind, worth a shot.
  13. I was thinking of getting this done to mine. What’s your thoughts on the quality of the work? Looking at the photos I’m a bit undecided.
  14. Thanks for the replies. Yes the filter has been checked along with every connection that was disturbed when fitting the new pump and filter head. The tank is about 3/4 full and so the pump is well submerged and it doesn’t seem to make any difference what angle the car is parked at. Once it’s running it pulls as well as it always did. I’ll get those seals checked again and at least eliminate those from the list of possible causes.
  15. There’s definitely an issue still there. Having stood overnight I’m basically having to go through the purge cycle each time before I try to start it. Even when warm after a good run the air can still be heard in the pump although not as bad as when cold. I’m going to get it back in to the garage to get the injector seals rechecked as I’m stumped as to what else it could be now.
  16. Thanks for the replies. I went back and checked over everything that I’d done and made sure all the valves were in the correct position which they are. I haven’t checked the filter on the regulator as the regulator itself looks to have been replaced quite recently by the PO when he did the EGR removal etc. I did notice that the copper washers that came with the new filter housing seem to be a bit oversized and weren’t sat completely central to the four brass fittings so I slackened the fittings off and tried to re-centre the washers to give a better seal. Then I did a couple of purge cycles and it seems to be a bit better at starting now although a small amount of air can still be heard as the pump primes up. Nothing like as bad as it was though. I suppose a loose injector securing bolt might allow some air in but before I start looking into that, I’ll see how it runs for a few days and report back.
  17. I wonder how I’d get on with one of those given that I have the ET seatbelt bar fitted?
  18. Bit more help needed with this problem please. New VDO pump and filter head have now been fitted. However, I can still hear the air in the pump and even after a drive the engine is struggling to start straight away. Whilst driving I can hear the pump noise due to air in the system and so I am wondering if I should be looking elsewhere for this problem? I’ve checked all the pipe connections etc and all seem in good condition and there are no apparent leaks. I did pull the top cover off the engine yesterday to check under there and everything is dry but it seems that air is getting in rather than fuel getting out. The injector seals were recently replaced and it seems like the starting problem has only manifested itself after that although the pump failure was probably just a coincidence. I didn’t replace the seals myself but got a garage to do it for me as I’d started to notice the engine taking longer to start and I’ve no reason to doubt that the work has been done but I do wonder if there’s something that may not have been properly tightened up during that process and which he has maybe overlooked? If so are there any checks that I can do myself on the drive without the need to pull the injectors out? In other words, could something just need nipping up or am I best getting it back to him?
  19. I used the 110 master cylinder on my Capri when I upgraded the brakes. You have to use the Capri Sport adapter to plumb in the two front circuits and the rear brake pipe goes to the rear port of the M/c. It will only fit a Pinto servo and not the V6 2.8i one. To be honest, I had heard many good things about this conversion along with the bigger fronts with four pots and rear disc conversion but I never got a half decent pedal out of it when I did it and everything was top quality and brand new. I have a whole setup sat here in the garage as I ended up taking it off and going back to tried and tested Princess four pots and standard 2.8i discs with rear drums. Best brakes I’ve had so far on the car.
  20. I hadn’t seen those on the AWT site so thanks for pointing it out. They don’t look too bad at all 👍
  21. Has anyone ever come across a ‘truck cab’ version of a canvas roof or seen one made? My S3 SWB spends most of its life with no roof or door tops but a quick and simple canvas version of the truck cab would be handy to have. I’ve seen the bikini tops but I think it would be good to have the full back on to make it wind and waterproof. Would it just be the case of removing the side panels of a standard canvas and relocating the back panel to just behind the first hoop in a similar way to the fume curtains were? Maybe adding in some rope hooks across the back of the seat bulkhead?
  22. Well I went to check the housing and remove the bleed valve but the housing bracket decided to part company with its mountings. Rather than mess about I ordered a new one but whilst I had the time, I decided to strip the valve and see what all the fuss was about. Pulled the insert from the brass fitting and cut it open. Might help others in the future. Looked a bit gunked up and there was no way I could blow through it. Whipped the top off with a Stanley knife and revealed the gauze filter, totally blocked. Fingers crossed the new housing sorts out the starting problem.
  23. Cheers, the filter has just been changed so I’ll check the housing.
  24. Cheers guys, is that the filter on the rear chassis rail?
  25. Driving home last week and the engine cut out suddenly without any warning. Up until then it had been running fine and just come back from a trip to the garage to get amongst other things, the injector seals replaced and fuel filter changed. Nice man from the RAC diagnosed a failed fuel pump so I ordered a VDO one and fitted it. New seal and lock ring. After a bit of priming the engine started but I immediately noticed that the pump was quite noisy as it was running as if it was drawing air from somewhere. Checked the pump pipes which are all secure and in good nick so I’m wondering if there could be another source for air getting into the system? The pump will shut off once primed with the ignition on but with the engine running it kicks in again and the noise is very noticeable. The car drives okay without any smoke etc but there’s obviously something not quite right so can anyone suggest a place to start looking beyond the connections for the pump, filter etc that were disturbed during the recent work? I can’t see any fuel leaks to point me towards the problem so maybe there’s something else I need to check.
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