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Posts posted by Bigj66

  1. Not sure how tall you are but I’m 6’2” and used the MUD bulkhead removal bar and seat rails to move my seats back and this gives me plenty of leg room with the standard steering wheel fitted. If your knees are touching the wiper stalk in your normal driving position then I’d be looking to improve that position for reasons of overall comfort and safety over the functionality of a switch.

  2. The issue you have is that you have no way of validating whether the original rolling chassis that the seller obtained from his friend was not stolen in the first place. The documented traceability only seems to go back as far as the current owner, unless you know otherwise?

    If I understand the rules correctly, you can only rechassis a vehicle with a like for like replacement which is new rather than used and it’s this difference that avoids incurring points under the IVA scheme.

    I certainly wouldn’t rely on the knowledge of an MOT inspector as your potential defence.

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  3. Enjoying this thread 👍

    No harm in painting the housing even though you don’t really see too much of it but it shows the MOT man that you care and pay attention to detail 😉

    I’m no expert on painting but I’d imagine an etch primer of some sort would be enquired first as it’s cast ali?

    It’s great when the shiny bits start to arrive and you can look towards reassembly again. Looking forward to more progress.

    Do you have a final spec in mind for this engine? Will it be mapped fuel and ignition and if so will you use a MS or something else? 

    What sort of power and torque would you be expecting to see at the end? 

  4. 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

    Indeed, and really if you want to run a single lambda, just put it in the Y, otherwise you won't ever get a reading from the other bank.

    It's great to ask all these questions, but does feel like you are getting into microscopic detail, when what you actually need to do is get started :) 

    It's my OCD🤦‍♂️, I need to be organised and prepared in advance as much as possible to minimise the downtime for the vehicle which is my daily . I only have very limited access to engineering support too so trying to remove the need for modifying, welding etc etc is important to me. As much bolt on as possible is the rule of thumb for me and in any case I'm not in any great rush to do this conversion so I can afford to take my time and do the research.

    The question about the lambda and the replies to it are an example of my point as I would have just gone away and fitted one to a downpipe which would have been an expensive mistake.

    I do appreciate all the support and time taken by people to reply and hopefully this thread will also be useful to others considering the same conversion.😊

  5. Cheers Jon.

    If there are tried and tested sections that definitely work then I’ll probably also get them In stainless from the outset.

    I’m assuming the Rangy auto one already has the lambda sensor bosses welded in and you just blanked one off as I think the MS only uses one O2 sensor doesn’t it?

  6. Found this diagram on the inter web which shows the parts we’re discussing.

    Is that thermostatic control unit problematic as I don’t see anyone using it on their conversions?

    It looks like not only does the heater return need to tee into the bottom hose but also the expansion hose (20). There’s also the additional radiator bleed hoses which I think the TD5 already has so the question is, how important is that expansion hose? Presumably Land Rover fitted it for a reason and it’s quite a step away from the earlier V8 setup they had.

    Using the Rangy heater return hose shouldn’t be too difficult should it?

    There also seems to be two bleed pipes routed from each side of the radiator to the expansion tank rather than the single I’ve seen before. Is this just belt and braces on LRs part to avoid overheating in the block or air locks?

    Would I be better off trying to replicate this system as much as possible or just stick with an earlier arrangement? There will be little in the way of heavy towing, mud plugging or WOT with mine so looking at what everyone else has done it seems an earlier (3.9) setup should suffice.

    Same for the oil cooler. If I’m going for a remote setup then is it just as easy to plumb in an engine oil cooler whilst I’m at it?

    At the moment I have a great big Ali Sport intercooler behind the grill so I imagine that will leave more than enough room for a cooler once it gets removed. Lastly, has anyone ever fitted the Rangy Thor radiator to a Defender without major butchering of the bodywork?


  7. 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    I've been there done that with the tubular headers and TBH I really don't like 'em - they kick out loads of heat (and steam when you go through a puddle) and if you wrap them to reduce that they absorb everything and steam more, plus you get glass fibre in your arms every time you work on the truck <_<

    Placement / air filter wise you might manage it, I fitted a 200TDi filter behind the engine as the old V8 dustbin-sized one was just a bit too tight, here's the space (in a factory V8 Defender):



    Is that valve at the rear of the engine supported by anything else other than the two hoses connected to it? Is it the idle air valve and will I need one for the Thor engine?

    If I use the R380 V8 bellhousing will my engine sit in the same place as it does in yours?

    Will I be able to use standard Defender V8 hoses for the engine to heater or need to make my own?

  8. I took a photo of the engine bay earlier to use as a reference. What are the chances of keeping that existing airbox in place with a Thor manifold? On some of the threads I’ve read there seems to be enough room albeit a bit tight. I have a snorkel fitted that I would like to retain but it’s fitted to the drivers side which is a bit awkward given the layout of the V8 plenums.

    Same question for the expansion tank.



  9. 3 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

    I have a pair of cast manifolds for sale if you need some 😉


    Thanks, I’ll bear that in mind if I go down the cast manifold route but I would like to look closer at the stainless four branch system although this will need to have the adapter fitted for the lambda sensor.

  10. 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    The back half yes, the front half (downpipes & Y-piece) of a stock Defender V8 system is really piddly and (I believe) won't mount to non-Defender manifolds because of angles and diameters etc.

    Then again, I think people get overly exercised about exhausts and snorkels and things as if a 2-ton brick is an F1 car :rolleyes:, with a petrol engine unless you're using wide-open-throttle at high RPM all the time you're not going to notice a restriction.

    My original thoughts were to just fit a stainless defender V8 system including manifolds as it would probably flow better anyway. Would that be a better compromise or would that require TD5 crossmember mods too?

  11. I’ve just been out to check the location of the TD5 radiator outlets and it looks like it shares the same arrangement as the V8 radiators do. Can I just retain my existing rad and expansion tank as it looks man enough for the V8?

    For the exhaust, do I need to change the Thor manifolds for a set of Defender V8 ones and use the DV8 downpipes and Y piece? Once the Y piece is on the V8, does the rest of the system then run down the passenger (UK) side as the TD5 does?

    I believe that the standard DV8 exhaust bore will probably be too restrictive for the 4.6 but that the TD5 intermediate and rear sections are okay. To mate up the V8 Y section to the TD5 intermediate section, do I need to fabricate a suitable joint or are there parts that will just bolt together and use the existing exhaust hangers?

    My aim is to use as many off the shelf items as possible so that spares don’t become an issue in the future.

  12. 11 hours ago, =jon= said:

    I've just done similar for my 4.6 install, but my PAS pump was a different layout - there was a union on the pump end rather than a screw in fitting, and the union is on the passenger side of the pump, not on the top. We took the pump and the original PAS pipe that runs across the front crossmember to the local hydraulics supplier and they made up a flexi hose to fit and a standard compression fitting for the hardline across the crossmember. If I remember I'll take a pic of how it's setup tomorrow... 

    Is yours the GEMS or Thor engine?

  13. 16 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    Biggest PITA I had was the PAS pipe, you want the angled metal section from the outlet side of the pump or you'll never route a high-pressure flexi up there. Ask me how I know <_<

    How come a Defender V8 pipe can’t be used? I did read about this in your build thread and meant to ask.

  14. That’s a relief to hear as yes, there are many scare mongers out there.

    I’ve still got some reading to do on the subject mostly earlier threads on the conversion and the problems others came across but I think I have most of the material now that I’ll need to get it done.

  15. Another question regarding the issue of leaking thin walled cylinder blocks caused by poor machining. Was this quality issue ever resolved by Landrover before production of the Thor V8 ceased? Or, are the Thor engine blocks just as likely to have similar problems? 

  16. My R380 has the higher ratio transfer box off a Disco 2 fitted. Reading through a couple of members build threads I get the impression that this setup could be a bit over geared for even the 4.6 V8.

    I’ve always assumed the V8 will out perform any of the Landrover Diesel engines in terms of both power and torque so I’d be interested to hear from anyone who has experience of this.

    The air box arrangement also seems to present some challenges to get right. With that in mind does the GEMS engine plenum provide a bit more space for pipe work etc than the THOR?

  17. 10 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    In my experience adapting a loom is nearly as much work as re-doing it from scratch.

    If there's a V8 loom that plugs into the TD5-era "body" loom (perhaps D2 V8?) then you'd be better off but I wouldn't fancy trying to make a TD5 engine loom into a V8 loom.

    Oh and Nige sells engine looms ready-made I believe, which could save a LOT of time.

    Yeah I’ve seen his looms and they look good but I’m talking more about stripping out any redundant TD5 wiring but keeping the bits for things like the starter and alternator as well as temp gauges etc.

     I really need to study the diagrams and look at my loom in more detail but I’m not fazed by doing that sort of work.

     I recall that Nige sells loom plugs so I can make sure any alterations are electrically sound and safe.

  18. 45 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

    The dash harness is the backbone of the electrical system and connected to it are the 2 wing harnesses, the engine harness and the rear harness.


    So if the engine harness also contains the charging and instrumentation wiring then it sounds like I need to retain it and then adapt it for the V8 requirements.

    Or strip out the TD5 redundant wiring and make a separate engine loom for the V8.🤔

    Either way it will be doable. Cheers.

  19. Questions about the wiring loom arrangement on a 110 TD5.

    Is the wiring loom split into sections that can be easily isolated from each other without affecting other parts of they system?

     I have this circuit diagram but it doesn’t tell me much about the layout. 


    I’m thinking about the engine loom in particular so for instance, could I disconnect the ECU and the injector loom but retain the charging/ instrument circuit wiring? Same for things like the throttle pedal harness. Could this be simply unplugged from the main loom once it’s no longer required by the V8? Is it possible to buy caps that can fit over the end of unused loom plugs to prevent dirt or moisture from getting in rather than wrapping them with electrical tape etc?

    Chopping wires isn’t really my thing so if it’s all one loom then I’ll need to think about unwrapping it, pulling the redundant wiring out and then rewrapping it.

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