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Posts posted by Bigj66

  1. 1 hour ago, Landumph said:

    When I test fitted the cable I realise now that I didn’t consider the mounting, just that the ends fitted and the throttle body was not on the car, yesterday I went to fit it and found out there is is not enough inner wire from the mounting bracket to the throttle body. Not very pleased with myself......

    The search for a suitable cable continues........might go to speedy cables 

    Yep, me too cheers 👍

  2. On 5/6/2020 at 8:51 AM, Landumph said:

    Well the cable should fit fine, I’ve only done a quick mock up with it as I’ve decided to change the cam. Radiator was pretty well worn and I decided to get it re-cored which is taking  forever. When I get it back I will bed the cam in with the carb manifold on, then proceed with MS. Bit a of long explanation for I think the throttle cable should fit fine, and only 49p!

    The Thor has the cable mounting bracket fitted quite a way back from the throttle itself so did you have enough inner wire length to feed around the cable attachment point on the throttle housing and still leave enough to go through the bulkhead to the pedal?

  3. 9 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:

    You are safe !


    Remove split pin, whizz off nut

    Underneath is a large washer

    PULL flange off seperate washer.


    Now, you have some choices


    New seal there are different types, 

    which also links into which drive flange you shove on if it needs renewing

    post up picky of the area the seal sits and I'll advise then of route(s) to go


    All routes are replace and a bit of sealer under the big washer Tortque up to 80-90 Ft Lbs (so castle nut lines up for new split pin)

    Job done won't have affected backlash or run out ...



    Great, thanks Nige 👍

  4. I would like to remove the diff flange so I can give it a god clean but it’s unclear from the workshop manual whether removing the flange, mud shield and seal will upset the preload settings.

    Anyone done this before?


  5. Just now, Arjan said:

    We had this set up on the 88"before going discs.

    Good period improvement


    Interesting, how did it compare between the updated drum brakes and the discs?

  6. I’ve been following Anderzander’s build thread in the Members Vehicles section and his recent front brake upgrade to 11” drums on his S1. It’s got me curious (oh dear🤔) about how much of an improvement over the standard SWB 10” drums, transplanting a complete servo assisted 11” brake setup off a 109 would achieve?

    Has anyone done this to a SWB and can comment? Bearing in mind that fitting new brakes and a servo will improve things over a used non-servo system anyway.

  7. 7 hours ago, Cchase said:

    Will the fenders (wings) and pick up cab from a 1981 V8 fit a 1984 90?


    Out of interest, what’s the story with the Stage 1? Is it being broken for some reason or do you just have a set of wings lying about that you want to use? There’s not many Stage 1s about and I would imagine even less in your neck of the woods.

  8. 23 minutes ago, Blanco said:

    .... P38 is uniquely 'handed' compared to defenders and earlier Disco's & RR's; so the LT230 takes centre'ish input and drives forward and rearward on the right hand side. P38 takes the centre intput but the outputs are on the left of the vehicle.

    Gotcha 👍

    Presumably the BW transfer box has similar interface issues with the box as the 230.

  9. On 6/25/2020 at 9:33 PM, Blanco said:

    Thanks, .. I know but the P38 can't use the LT230, ... that was kind of why I started this little quest, ... just to see if options were out there.

    Out of curiosity why the LT230?

    Id be interested in an electronic box that used hand controls and could be coupled to a V8 but I’m not sure if that’s possible? Maybe in the post-Thor Landrovers?

  10. 5 hours ago, bishbosh said:

    Just to note you can get it back on its wheels without the half shafts ;)


    Problem is that I’m at a halfway stage and have already stripped out the bearings etc from the series hubs so I can’t bung them back on and, without the adapters I can’t get the new hubs on so it’s just a case of waiting until the adapters are made.

  11. I may have another solution that involves cutting the shaft to reduce the length in the centre and then joining the two halves together using friction welding.

    That would avoid the need for any grinding of the splines and interference with the hardening. Cheaper than new shafts too but there’s limitations and more to investigate about the process so will see what happens.

  12. 4 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

    Try Albany pumps in the forest of Dean. They do oil and gas work, which is light at the moment, apparently.

    It should be the same sort of engineering splines and stuff. I've no association with them, I just pass their place when I'm out and about.

    Nearly as light as offshore wind farms...🤨

    Will look them up 👍

  13. Does anyone know of a company that will modify existing half shafts? By that I mean shorten them and reground the splines?

    My local engineering company is swamped with back orders and have told me it will be at least 8 weeks before they could look at doing the work for me. I would like to get the chassis on wheels again as soon as I can so I can move it about to finish the rest of the work on it as lifting a ZF box onto the back of a V8 by hand isn’t good for my back 🚑

  14. On 5/9/2020 at 9:46 AM, missingsid said:

    I think the main reason was to leave room for the Panhard rod?

    As to the question re the use of Defender hubs and discs on the rear Series axle. Yes you can but you will need two items.

    First the bolt on caliper brackets from an early Defender Salisbury axle part number FTC3306

    Second the disc alignment with the caliper will need checking wich may require a spacer in the axle, mine was 4.5mm thick as I used RRC discs and calipers. Using all Defender parts should match up without?

    Is there a particular stub axle that is used for the rear disc conversion?

    The RRC stub axle spigot is wider than the Series axle tube recess so do you need to use a Series stub axle that the RRC hub will bolt on to?

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