Bigj66

I agree wholeheartedly however, this needs to be made crystal clear to anyone thinking of buying this kit beforehand as it is a significant financial outlay. Some people, myself included, are not prepared to compromise on certain aspects of their vehicles appearance and so having this information available will allow a more informed choice to be made. You really shouldn’t have to find out post-purchase via an Internet forum, that there is a chance the goods you have just bought may not be suitable and I’m just grateful that Gazzar shared his own experience in my build thread which gave me the heads up to dig a bit deeper into this with Zeus. It’s a positive thing that Zeus appear to recognise that there is some uncertainty around the current information they’ve provided and are trying to clarify it for the benefit of all.

I’m involved with an ongoing discussion with Zeus regarding the requirement for a wheel size of 6J or above as stated on their website. I have 6.5J rims so in theory they should easily clear the calliper however, Zeus are now saying that this may not necessarily be the case and that they would normally recommend either Wolf, 8 spoke or Disco rims. I have asked for some dimensions to be made available in order to take a measurement at the point where the clash with the calliper is likely to occur and they have agreed to provide them once they have done a 3D scan of a Landrover rim in order to get an accurate measurement. They are aware that this issue has caused problems for previous purchasers of their kit and so they are taking extra care to get the correct information published as they are also aware that this is a current discussion point in Landrover circles. The other thing they mentioned was that the calliper has been reduced slightly in size and so it’s likely that this will also affect the dimensional information that they release. I’m told that I will have an answer this week and if it turns out that my rims are unsuitable, they will cancel my order and refund the payment. I think we can then expect the information on the website to be updated quite soon afterwards. Finger crossed all will be well but I have to say that up to now they have been very good with the service they’ve provided.

One option might be to send the one you bought with the right ends to speedy cables and just ask them to fit a new longer inner wire to it. Assuming of course that the outer is long enough to reach from the plenum to the bulkhead?

Soft top design and colour aside, I think someone has put a lot of time, effort and money into this build. I’d be interested to read the build thread for it.

Would you need to retain the lift pump if you have the HP one?

Could be worth giving ACR a call and asking them what they’d recommend for their upgrade package.

Yes, V8s are the way forward 😊

Yep, me too cheers 👍

FRC8820 is the diff pinion seal for the later ‘86 on RRC but my diffs are from an early 2 door suffix D with the 10 spline diffs. Does anyone have the part number for that seal?

The Thor has the cable mounting bracket fitted quite a way back from the throttle itself so did you have enough inner wire length to feed around the cable attachment point on the throttle housing and still leave enough to go through the bulkhead to the pedal?

Great, thanks Nige 👍

🤷‍♂️Hence the question.

I would like to remove the diff flange so I can give it a god clean but it’s unclear from the workshop manual whether removing the flange, mud shield and seal will upset the preload settings. Anyone done this before?

The P38 valve block is winging its way north as I type 😉

😊great description 👍

Adam, do you have the option to switch to a Borg Warner transfer box? It might solve the issue you are dealing with depending on the vehicle etc.

Interesting, how did it compare between the updated drum brakes and the discs?

I’ve been following Anderzander’s build thread in the Members Vehicles section and his recent front brake upgrade to 11” drums on his S1. It’s got me curious (oh dear🤔) about how much of an improvement over the standard SWB 10” drums, transplanting a complete servo assisted 11” brake setup off a 109 would achieve? Has anyone done this to a SWB and can comment? Bearing in mind that fitting new brakes and a servo will improve things over a used non-servo system anyway.

I’d be interested in what Dave says about this but looking at the manual it looks like the bearing should be tight as the front is as it needs removing with a puller.

Out of interest, what’s the story with the Stage 1? Is it being broken for some reason or do you just have a set of wings lying about that you want to use? There’s not many Stage 1s about and I would imagine even less in your neck of the woods.

Gotcha 👍 Presumably the BW transfer box has similar interface issues with the box as the 230.

Out of curiosity why the LT230? Id be interested in an electronic box that used hand controls and could be coupled to a V8 but I’m not sure if that’s possible? Maybe in the post-Thor Landrovers?

Problem is that I’m at a halfway stage and have already stripped out the bearings etc from the series hubs so I can’t bung them back on and, without the adapters I can’t get the new hubs on so it’s just a case of waiting until the adapters are made.

I may have another solution that involves cutting the shaft to reduce the length in the centre and then joining the two halves together using friction welding. That would avoid the need for any grinding of the splines and interference with the hardening. Cheaper than new shafts too but there’s limitations and more to investigate about the process so will see what happens.

Nearly as light as offshore wind farms...🤨 Will look them up 👍