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Bigj66

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Posts posted by Bigj66

  1. 8 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

    To be honest. Wheel clearance can be down to offset as well as rim width. And even how thick the metal is or type of construction. Some rims will have spokes in different places and the inner rim dimensions can vary wildly, even on rims of the same width.

    That said, running a set of spacers or slightly wider offset rims is a simple fix. And something anyone modifying brakes in this fashion should be prepared to do.

    I agree wholeheartedly however, this needs to be made crystal clear to anyone thinking of buying this kit beforehand as it is a significant financial outlay.

    Some people, myself included, are not prepared to compromise on certain aspects of their vehicles appearance and so having this information available will allow a more informed choice to be made.

    You really shouldn’t have to find out post-purchase via an Internet forum, that there is a chance the goods you have just bought may not be suitable and I’m just grateful that Gazzar shared his own experience in my build thread which gave me the heads up to dig a bit deeper into this with Zeus.

    It’s a positive thing that Zeus appear to recognise that there is some uncertainty around the current information they’ve provided and are trying to clarify it for the benefit of all.

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  2. I’m involved with an ongoing discussion with Zeus regarding the requirement for a wheel size of 6J or above as stated on their website.

    I have 6.5J rims so in theory they should easily clear the calliper however, Zeus are now saying that this may not necessarily be the case and that they would normally recommend either Wolf, 8 spoke or Disco rims.

    I have asked for some dimensions to be made available in order to take a measurement at the point where the clash with the calliper is likely to occur and they have agreed to provide them once they have done a 3D scan of a Landrover rim in order to get an accurate measurement.

    They are aware that this issue has caused problems for previous purchasers of their kit and so they are taking extra care to get the correct information published as they are also aware that this is a current discussion point in Landrover circles.

    The other thing they mentioned was that the calliper has been reduced slightly in size and so it’s likely that this will also affect the dimensional information that they release.

    I’m told that I will have an answer this week and if it turns out that my rims are unsuitable, they will cancel my order and refund the payment. I think we can then expect the information on the website to be updated quite soon afterwards.

    Finger crossed all will be well but I have to say that up to now they have been very good with the service they’ve provided.

  3. On 7/6/2020 at 9:18 AM, Landumph said:

    When I test fitted the cable I realise now that I didn’t consider the mounting, just that the ends fitted and the throttle body was not on the car, yesterday I went to fit it and found out there is is not enough inner wire from the mounting bracket to the throttle body. Not very pleased with myself......

    The search for a suitable cable continues........might go to speedy cables 

    One option might be to send the one you bought with the right ends to speedy cables and just ask them to fit a new longer inner wire to it.

    Assuming of course that the outer is long enough to reach from the plenum to the bulkhead?

  4. 4 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

    I wasn't worried until Nige sucked in his breath. And mentioned resin melting!

    Making the system E85 proof will be a challenge, but I think I'll be okay. The high pressure fuel pump should be easy source, the tanks I can probably manage. The military fillers must be sealable, there has to be a "rubber" that's is resistant to this stuff.

    The tank switch over valve should be okay, and there's not much else, bar the lift pump.

    Which could be tricky.

     

    Would you need to retain the lift pump if you have the HP one?

  5. 1 hour ago, Landumph said:

    When I test fitted the cable I realise now that I didn’t consider the mounting, just that the ends fitted and the throttle body was not on the car, yesterday I went to fit it and found out there is is not enough inner wire from the mounting bracket to the throttle body. Not very pleased with myself......

    The search for a suitable cable continues........might go to speedy cables 

    Yep, me too cheers 👍

  6. On 5/6/2020 at 8:51 AM, Landumph said:

    Well the cable should fit fine, I’ve only done a quick mock up with it as I’ve decided to change the cam. Radiator was pretty well worn and I decided to get it re-cored which is taking  forever. When I get it back I will bed the cam in with the carb manifold on, then proceed with MS. Bit a of long explanation for I think the throttle cable should fit fine, and only 49p!

    The Thor has the cable mounting bracket fitted quite a way back from the throttle itself so did you have enough inner wire length to feed around the cable attachment point on the throttle housing and still leave enough to go through the bulkhead to the pedal?

  7. 9 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:

    You are safe !

     

    Remove split pin, whizz off nut

    Underneath is a large washer

    PULL flange off seperate washer.

     

    Now, you have some choices

     

    New seal there are different types, 

    which also links into which drive flange you shove on if it needs renewing

    post up picky of the area the seal sits and I'll advise then of route(s) to go

     

    All routes are replace and a bit of sealer under the big washer Tortque up to 80-90 Ft Lbs (so castle nut lines up for new split pin)

    Job done won't have affected backlash or run out ...

    Nige

     

    Great, thanks Nige 👍

  8. I would like to remove the diff flange so I can give it a god clean but it’s unclear from the workshop manual whether removing the flange, mud shield and seal will upset the preload settings.

    Anyone done this before?

    402F07F4-99C8-43EE-8843-00D782E0BC74.jpeg.cda13cd01d75de94fd9eba3ff44deeaa.jpeg

  9. I’ve been following Anderzander’s build thread in the Members Vehicles section and his recent front brake upgrade to 11” drums on his S1. It’s got me curious (oh dear🤔) about how much of an improvement over the standard SWB 10” drums, transplanting a complete servo assisted 11” brake setup off a 109 would achieve?

    Has anyone done this to a SWB and can comment? Bearing in mind that fitting new brakes and a servo will improve things over a used non-servo system anyway.

  10. 7 hours ago, Cchase said:

    Will the fenders (wings) and pick up cab from a 1981 V8 fit a 1984 90?

    Thanks

    Out of interest, what’s the story with the Stage 1? Is it being broken for some reason or do you just have a set of wings lying about that you want to use? There’s not many Stage 1s about and I would imagine even less in your neck of the woods.

  11. 23 minutes ago, Blanco said:

    .... P38 is uniquely 'handed' compared to defenders and earlier Disco's & RR's; so the LT230 takes centre'ish input and drives forward and rearward on the right hand side. P38 takes the centre intput but the outputs are on the left of the vehicle.

    Gotcha 👍

    Presumably the BW transfer box has similar interface issues with the box as the 230.

  12. On 6/25/2020 at 9:33 PM, Blanco said:

    Thanks, .. I know but the P38 can't use the LT230, ... that was kind of why I started this little quest, ... just to see if options were out there.

    Out of curiosity why the LT230?

    Id be interested in an electronic box that used hand controls and could be coupled to a V8 but I’m not sure if that’s possible? Maybe in the post-Thor Landrovers?

  13. 5 hours ago, bishbosh said:

    Just to note you can get it back on its wheels without the half shafts ;)

     

    Problem is that I’m at a halfway stage and have already stripped out the bearings etc from the series hubs so I can’t bung them back on and, without the adapters I can’t get the new hubs on so it’s just a case of waiting until the adapters are made.

  14. I may have another solution that involves cutting the shaft to reduce the length in the centre and then joining the two halves together using friction welding.

    That would avoid the need for any grinding of the splines and interference with the hardening. Cheaper than new shafts too but there’s limitations and more to investigate about the process so will see what happens.

  15. 4 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

    Try Albany pumps in the forest of Dean. They do oil and gas work, which is light at the moment, apparently.

    It should be the same sort of engineering splines and stuff. I've no association with them, I just pass their place when I'm out and about.

    Nearly as light as offshore wind farms...🤨

    Will look them up 👍

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