Why does the owner think it’s not running smoothly? A transmission fault wouldn’t require engine parts to be replaced 🤔
It sounds from what the owner is saying that he’s aware that it’s got an engine fault.
A noise that loud on an engine would only be something serious like the crank knocking under load wouldn’t it?
Difficult to say just from the clip. Hope you identify it.
2” would be fine. I just don’t want the skinny tube of the original hoops. I might see if I can hire a pipe bender, if not I could manage with pre formed angles and weld them all up.
Yes I used to have one from Exmoor when I ran roofless before the rebuild. I want something higher now so I can use it to support a bikini canvas roof that I’ll make. I don’t like standard hoop height so something a bit lower than that and a bit thicker for aesthetics is what I’m aiming for.
Why is it I’m struggling to find somewhere that supplies 3mm wall pre-formed mild steel tube bends?
I can find lots of 2mm and stainless suppliers but I’m after something a bit beefier that I can make a seatbelt bar out of and was hoping to be able to buy a couple of 45mm (ish) OD 90 and 130 degree bends.
Can anyone point me towards a supplier or is a 3mm wall too thick to bend?
The classic car show is on at Tatton Park this weekend so me and Er Indoors decided to have a run out for a looksee.
I know it’s classic cars and that us Landrover owners have our own specific shows but even so I was surprised to see that there wasn’t a single Landrover in any of the displays. There were a couple of newish Rangys on a stand which were nice but not exactly classics.
Maybe my expectations were too high? 🤷♂️
Still lots of nice cars though and plenty of parts stalls👍👍
Pricey though at £12 per head entry to the show plus £8 park entry for just an hour or so.
I opted for the Goodyear Wrangler Adventure AT. I’ve stuck with Goodyear for a few years now buying them for a number of different vehicles.
They’re not overly aggressive, quiet, grippy in the wet and seem to wear well.
Do you happen to know the angle from horizontal that the G valve must be mounted?
20 degrees springs to mind.
And does the outlet to the rear brakes need to be in the highest position or could it be mounted with that port closer to the chassis?
My Thor V8 sits nose up by 6 degrees if memory serves and slightly offset whilst being as far forward as possible to allow the fitting of the ZF auto.
The gearbox will dictate the engine position as that needs to be in the correct place for the rest of the drive train and things like gear levers etc.
I used EFi manifolds and a stumpy oil filter to clear the axle along with a TDi aluminium radiator.
Sounds like you have the complete setup already there. If you’re keeping the engine then to avoid further modifications I’d just opt for the best series gearbox you can get which I believe is the later series 3.
As long as you don’t abuse it it should cope with the V6.
I thought the Heystee swivel housings were all the same it was just the stub axle that varied between the early and late models.
I made my own CV kit but it does require some engineering without a doubt. I also have the Heystee swivels for disc brakes but they need machining slightly to fit the Defender stub axle and CV.