Bigj66

Cheers I’ll take a look 👍

Does anyone know where I can find an exploded diagram of the 4.0 Thor engine so I can find the correct part numbers for the gaskets and seals that I need to rebuild mine? Ive tried the tech archive and Landrover manuals website but the Disco engine is not listed.

To save anyone having to trawl through my thread...

Just want to say a big thanks to Mike for making those P38 steering box brackets for me. Top notch work and highly recommended for anyone else looking for something similar. Cheers 👍

Whatever you decide to do with it take plenty of detailed photos of it inside, outside, underneath and in the engine bay as there’s not too much information about on these and it would make an interesting tech archive item. It would be of particular interest to me at least to see how Landrover approached the fitting of a V8 into the SWB. I know they gained room at the front from fitting the stage 1 front panel but the general engine and drive train layout would be good to see. Does it have a Salisbury rear axle?

They’re handy to have, I cut through my chassis bush outer tube with one yesterday so I could chisel it out.

I’ve been giving some thought to how I can protect my repaired chassis from corrosion and have been reading a bit about electroplating and phosphate coatings. I’d also like to avoid any grit blasting during the cleanup process as the stuff gets everywhere and I really don’t want the internal void spaces to have a load of residual grit left in them which I’ve seen before, even after flushing and blowing through with air. So I’m thinking along the lines of a chemical dipping process that will initially get rid of surface paint, oil etc and then another process that will get to every nook and cranny both inside and out and treat/coat any internal surface rust or exposed surfaces where I’ve welded new crossmembers etc. There is of course galvanising but I also want to look at alternatives.

We have over 200 offshore turbines scattered across the horizon here in North Wales 👍 It’ll be good to get back over to DK at some point 😉

What about one of these? It’s called a Land Rover or something, strange name 🤷‍♂️ Look a bit boxy and not very comfortable but I’ve heard good things about them in the press and they seem quite versatile for doing various tasks around the farm. I’m not sure if the idea will catch on though....🤔

Could you release the body mounts and jack it up slightly to give you better access and open up your options?

Yes, those and the side panels of the SWB tub 👍 I used round bar clamps like these to attach the boat rollers to my roof rack that my kayak sits on. That way I don’t need to drill it.

Are you able to view that clip I posted? You can hear the clunk between the input and intermediate gears when I move it as if the teeth need to move closer to each other before they make contact but I’m not sure if that’s normal or not. If I turn either of the prop flanges then you hear the same noise but the source is definitely from the input area. The box has definitely been worked on as there are signs of recent black sealant on the various covers etc. That input gear isn’t one of the cross drilled ones though that are recommended to be fitted these days. Maybe just replace that input gear?

The play is definitely between the input gear and the intermediate cluster from what I can tell.

Well it’s good to know you are a gear nerd as I only have a limited knowledge of the subject.👍 Which splines are you referring to? Is it the ones that sit on the output shaft of the gearbox? If so then I fitted the input gear onto the ZF output shaft and there was no play in it at all. It was just those teeth that concerned me and the clunk between them and the intermediate cluster gear. What is the likely cause of that as I expect I would feel and hear that every time I put the box into drive?

Hope you don’t mind me jumping in here but I’m also working on my suffix E LT230 and have a question about how to determine ‘uneven wear’ on the input gear and intermediate gear teeth. The LR manual just says to check for this uneven wear without specifying what that should be so I’m wondering if there is a way to establish this? I have a clip of the play between the teeth on my input gear and he intermediate gear below. For some reason it doesn’t show up as a clip in the post but it should play or if not I can upload it to YT. 9695607D-AC92-45E0-BEBA-EA8627B48356.MOV I have taken the input gear out and looked at the teeth and there is no damage or chipping to them and the wear pattern seems to be even on all of them. The only thing I did note is that the teeth seem to be a bit more ‘pointed’ at the top compared to the machined flat point on other gears. Looking at photos of new input gears it’s hard to tell for certain if this is normal for this particular gear or, if mine are excessively worn. Im sure that backlash between the teeth isn’t normal so I’m assuming that there is excessive wear somewhere but if anyone can let me know a more accurate way to check then it would be appreciated.

This is what I’m aiming for. Some additional info here too. http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/PowerSteering.htm#p38

Cheers 👍

Does anyone know where I can find the exact specification of the bell housing bolts used on the V8 please? Thread pitch in particular. Im trying to buy a set of extended ones for my engine stand. Cheers.

Cheers Mike I’ve sent you an email.

I came across these guys when I was looking for a kickdown cable for my auto. https://speedycables.com/

Can anyone recommend a company that will laser cut my steering box mounts from a drawing and post them to me?

I watched a Weld.com video last night on YT and the chap was actually resting the stick on the metal as he welded. Apparently this is okay to do but I was struggling when I tried my first welding as I was trying to maintain a gap and move the stick all whilst the stick was getting shorter. If it’s okay to rest it on the metal then I might give it another go to see if that improves things as it would be handy to be able to at least do some decent tacks right now.

Hi Dave I decided instead to use the V8 in my Series 3. Once that project has been completed, the Series will be my daily and the 110 will be sold so in the meantime I’ll just leave I as a standard TD5. There’s a lot of information from this thread that I’ll be using in that project though.

I’ve heard a lot said about Magnecor leads and I think RPI recommend them but I’ve no personal experience of them.

Nice workshop👍 When mine was being built a couple of years ago I asked the builder to install additional overhead strengthened beams to take the weight of a chain hoist, engine and gearbox. I’m so glad I did now as it’s proved invaluable when lugging the V8 and ZF in and out of the Series. You can’t move stuff around the workshop in the same way you can with an engine hoist but it does allow for more working room around the engine when it’s suspended and I now have the engine stand and tool chest to move both about if I need to.