Bigj66

Quick update for anyone else thinking of doing this conversion. Finally got the Disco TB fitted last week and at the same time replaced a seized rear prop. Also replaced the straight through exhaust fitted by the PO with the original centre box as it caused a pretty mind numbing drone at motorway speeds. Vehicle now drives and sounds much better with little effect on performance due to the increased gearing. You can tell it’s been geared up but not to the extent that it affects drivability. Engine revs have dropped and the cab is a much nicer place to be 👍

Anyone changed their TD5 for a V8 in a 110? Is it straightforward in terms of getting the engine sat on the mounts and bolted up to the gearbox?

I fitted the Osrams to my Capri and they are brilliant. Fitted them to the 110 and they’ve hardly made a difference so I think I need to do the wiring mod to improve the supply.

Christmas came a bit early. I had a set of 6.5 rims sent off for refurbishment and they came back yesterday 🙂 Standard Landrover cream, excellent finish. I’ll try and get them on between Christmas and the New Year.

Standing by for the ‘go V8’ reply 👍😂

Cheers Steve, just ordered a couple off the bay so will give it a go, certainly looks like the pushrod thread. While I’m on, does anyone know if the transfer box can be dropped from the gearbox and removed from underneath the vehicle without it being jacked up or on a ramp? Looks like it should slide out but just want to check before I try it.

I found this on another thread so I’ll give it a go. The master cylinder pushrod retaining nut doesn’t seem to want to go back on for some reason and feels cross threaded. Am I right in thinking that the pushrod is an M8 metric fine thread?

Refitted the new slave and master cylinders today and bled them up. I think I need to adjust the master cylinder pushrod as the pedal is all over the place. I’ll have to try and find a measurement for it in the manual. I think it’s fixed the problem as the clutch works-ish but it might need to be bled again after adjustment.

Agreed, I don’t buy it that a hydraulic brake system is designed to ‘relieve’ pressure in this way. It defeats the principle upon which the system is designed. Something’s not quite right with this. I’d investigate further.

I thought I’d read somewhere that the half shafts on the non-Salisbury axle were prone to wear. Mine have been replaced by the PO and the vehicle has done 126k. I don’t think £130 is that unreasonable for parts and labour but it’s a straightforward DIY job. The half shafts transmit drive from the axle differential to the hubs that the road wheels are attached to.

I’ve ordered an over length 13mm spanner to help with the reassembly. The thought of spending yet another hour on one bolt just depresses me 😐

I did check the M/C bore when I removed it and it does look a little bit scored inside although the seal looked okayish. No sign of any sudden failure that would explain the pedal going to the floor as it did. I can’t see inside the slave cylinder aperture to check the pushrod and arm but it seems to be in the correct place and moves easily enough. Might try to get a mirror or something to try and take a closer look.

I also use this, the Dynax S50 in a can. Good stuff 👍

I’ve pulled the master and slave out this afternoon whilst I wait for the new ones to be delivered. I did think about resealing the originals but if that didn’t work for some reason then I’d be left without a vehicle for even longer and it’s already causing me problems. I managed to get new Bearmach parts for £23 so quite reasonable. I’d like to speak to the chap who decided to put a master cylinder mounting bolt underneath between it and the bulkhead 🤬. What a bugger to get to, ended up having to undo the expansion tank to be able to get a spanner in behind. Presumably the easiest way to get to it is to take out the pedal box along with the interior trim etc etc or get a very long 13mm spanner to reach up from inside?

Interesting. I’m thinking about going with Bearmach parts as replacements unless anyone advises against it?

Did a quick visual check of pipe work and linkages etc and all looks well. Slave cylinder is dry and the flexi hose in good condition. Master cylinder fluid level is low and dirty. Underneath the seal has a combination of what looks like grease and maybe some fluid. I tried pumping the pedal a few times and noticed there were some bubbles coming up into the reservoir. Clamping the flexi hose made no difference so I suspect the master cylinder and will order a new one along with a new slave as it probably won’t be far behind. Worth a try and if it doesn’t work then it’s a box out jobbie. What does that sensor do on the top of the pedal box? 5D80DB3C-0E5C-49D3-9CE9-9AC5696DCDBA.MOV

Cheers, it definitely felt like something ‘snapped’ but I’m going to pop outside now and take a look for anything obvious underneath.

Thanks for the reply and advice. The pedal went straight to the floor without any warning so maybe I’ve burst a hydraulic pipe? I’ll get underneath tomorrow and have a look see. If I have then it should be pretty obvious. Can the box come out through the cab via an engine hoist?

I’ve previously reported some lack of smoothness in the clutch on my 110 but it’s still functioned okay up until tonight when on the A55 the pedal suddenly went to the floor. If it was a cable operated clutch then I’d say it had snapped that’s how sudden it was. Managed to limp home by blipping the throttle to change gear and now need to figure out what’s happened. I’d planned to change the clutch when I swap to the high ratio TB but wasn’t planning on doing it just yet. Am I likely to be looking at the famous rod through the lever arm scenario based on my explanation or should I be looking elsewhere? Is the removal of the gearbox on a 110 the same as a series where the seat base has to come out or did Landrover come to their senses and simplify the task? Any tips to make the job safer, quicker or easier? If I fit a new clutch and have the box out then I may as well swap the TB whilst I’m at it. Should I plan on a weekends work to do those jobs?

So I’ll need to swap mine over then? Straight swap?

Before I commit to a purchase I just want to check that the 1.2 ratios will be a better choice than the 1.003? And that a Disco 2 68D box will swap will mine?

That’s exactly what I’m looking for with mine. First gear is of little use in those circumstances. If my 2nd gear becomes 1st with the 1.2 box and 5th is higher again then I’ll be happy.

I brimmed the fuel tank tonight so have reset the trip counter and will see what sort of consumption I’m getting. Anyone can say if that 68D suffix box is the right one? I’m informed it’s out of a 2004 Disco and my 110 is also a 2004 model. Will the 1.2 gearing be okay with an engine that’s kicking out more power than standard (around 165 - 170bhp) or does the gearing need to be slightly higher again to give the same effect as the 1.2 with a standard engine? I’m running on 265s. Clutchwise I’m now convinced it’s a hydraulic problem as the pedal feels ‘sticky’ when it’s released and not very smooth. Should be an easy fix although I did hear a slight whirring noise when it engaged earlier so I’m also wondering about the release bearing or clutch itself now. Could be a combination of several things to be honest but I’ll go through them one by one to try and eliminate issues as I go.

I can get my hands on a good Disco 2 TD5 TB with diff lock serial number 68D. Is that the correct one including wiring for sensors and switches etc?

Presumably if I swap the complete box then the low range gears will be increased too or does the Disco just have different high range gears?