Bigj66

I know a thing or two about road traffic legislation, I’ll take my chances 😉

I just fitted LED bulbs to my standard lamp units and changed the indicator and hazard relays for LED compatible versions.

Paintman sell them. I fitted them to my S3 👍

I’ve just fitted a 10 ohm resistor in line with the sender feed and it’s brought the needle down to mid point on the gauge from the red. I’ll keep an eye on it and see how it works at different temperatures.

I’ve never even heard of those, will take a look 👍

Mine has the series sender fitted John.👍

I’ve just ordered a selection of resistors to experiment with if you want to hold fire on forking out on a gauge just yet? I can let you know if they make any difference or not. With mine, I’m still using the series gauge and sender but it now reads much higher than with the 2.25 which used to sit in the normal range. With the V8 it sits just under the red line at normal temperature so I’d like to bring the needle down a bit but still allow it to rise if the engine gets hotter and the fan kicks in. I’m not even sure if V8s run hotter internally than a standard engine??

What about fitting a resistor in line with the feed to bring the needle down? I have the same issue with my V8 conversion.

I’ve been thinking of fitting a roof tent to the Sankey when I do it up. Like the idea of just hitching up and driving off for a weekend.

I might have found a way to use the ones I have here. I’ll try them with the seat in place tomorrow and update my build thread but thanks 👍

Thanks but that’s the parts manual that I have. MTC1606/7 are the numbers. When I search on that number nothing related to it comes up though 🤷‍♂️

Does anyone know what the part number is for a Series 3 SWB truck cab inertia seatbelt? MTC1606/7 is listed in the parts manual but seems to be for a Defender. Are they the same ones?

I’d try to reinstate the exhaust and see how it is then

That’s definitely worth saving 👍

How is the Sankey project coming along Stephen? I’ve one here that’s parked up until I can get the V8 finished but after that it’s going to be a full strip and rebuild so I’m on the lookout for threads where people have done similar.

Cheers I’ve just found them using the part number. For £40 for a set though, I’ll stick with these I have here.👍

Does anyone know if it possible to buy the aluminium window spacers without also having to buy the channels?

Now I’m really worried about my V8 and auto in the series 🥵🥵 A winter car only methinks..😊

Pretty straight forward. The sensor just replaces the points and condenser. It should come with instructions for wiring etc but it’s not complicated. It will just give more consistency and reliability to that part of the system as you no longer need to check points and regap them periodically. This type of sensor fits into the original distributor and everything else such as dizzy cap and rotor remain standard.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151154977555 Something like this.

As above, replace the points with an electronic pick up unit. Easy to fit and much more reliable.

One other query, can I fit anti burst locks in place of the standard ones on a series 3 door?

I’ve ordered the channel from the S3 club so now I need to get the rear window seals etc for the truck cab and both doors. Would Woolies be the recommendation for those and again glue in or re-rivet?

I thought that was just for headlights? Does it apply to the other lights too? I can’t see much difference between the lens of the LED and standard Wipac units if I’m honest.

I was wondering if you can just replace the bulbs with LED versions and keep the original lamp units? My lights are fairly new so I don’t want to buy new ones if I can avoid it. Or are the LED lens different? I’d need a LED flasher relay for the indicators too but that too should be a straightforward swap.