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Bradshaw

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  1. Hi Snagger, Well roughly the angle looks 90 degrees - I am sourcing a new steering relay, but as I live in Malta finding a new one or decent used one that has not been butchered is going to be harder than I thought - probably easier to buy new from UK & have it shipped....all about money at the moment tho! Have a list (& parts) to replace - oil leaks, brakes etc...the forum is a great help to a newbie...so thanks again guys. Si
  2. Wow! Thankyou so much....Ok I am gonna have to investigate further, but obviously something has not been correct as this morning I noticed that in the past the relay arms on the relay box have been welded to the splines, so there is something immediately to correct before trying any adjustment elsewhere! Fun of a 39 yr old Series 3 I would imagine...Had it 5 weeks & has had 2 head gaskets, head skimmed, vacuum pump fitted (Peugeot 405) & new water pump...none of which I knew I would need lol! Thanks for your advice guys, will come back to you no doubt regarding this once I have sorted the relay box Si
  3. Hi Guys, I have a 1977 Series 3 - 109" = the problem is that turning right I have a better turn in than left. Is it adjustable?...the wheels & tyres are standard - actually the whole vehicle is pretty much stock from what I have read & seen. Tight left hand corner takes 3 manoeuvres to get around! Regards Si
  4. Thankyou so much David - so a 48amp load relay to replace the solenoid, all makes sense now you have explained it. Is their a standard glow plug relay that I can utilise?...if so can you let me know which pin outs I should use for my conversion & whether I can use one with a timer as in the later cars? Si
  5. Hi David, Thats a great help! The solenoid has 2 nut & stud connections (A and B for the sake of it) & 1 side spade connection - (C) So Battery + on (A) Feed (B) to left hand of the ballast resistor Ignition to spade (C) Right feed of the ballast resistor to the glow plugs ( on this feed there is a small wire, which I assume is the indicator light?) Just on a note though....this morning the engine wouldnt start - this was not due to the glow plugs however, but air in the fuel line (just replaced the head gasket - one of the spill rail pipes had a small hole in allowing air in overnight I think) But as the engine was turning constantly whilst I bled the fuel - the solenoid failed & was extremely hot (2nd in less than a week) - I now do not have any current to the glow plugs - was this due to the fact that the current fried the solenoid as it was engaged for about a minute? Can I just get rid of the ballast resistor altogether like you said & if so is the present setup safe to use still? BTW I live in Malta so cold starting isnt really an issue as it doesnt drop much below 10 degrees in the winter....brrrrrrr :o) Thanks again Si
  6. Hi! Thanks for the reply!.....OK yes the plugs have a single wire connected to them - there is only one wire to any single plug. BUT...there is still the ballast resistor connected in this arrangement - the plugs are definitely connected to the right hand side - which is fed via a solenoid (same as the starter solenoid on a classic mini) on the right hand side - this creates a very audible 'click' when turned to position 2 on the ignition....Maybe this is being used as a sort of relay as you mentioned? This was the basis of my original query as I have no visible indication or idea of when to fire the engine....i just wait 30 seconds. I have not chance to check the voltages yet, but will tomorrow Si
  7. Hi, I am a total newbie to LR - I have just bought a series III 4 weeks ago - 2 weeks have been off the road with blown head gasket. Just got everything running again - so I am now trying to resolve a few electrical niggles - the one I am working on now is the glow plug warning lamp not working. Glow plugs are working fine Bulb is ok Wire continuity seems ok I believe the previous owner told me it has the defender glow plug upgrade in parallel. Any idea as the first place to start looking for the fault please Thanks Si
  8. Hey Guys, Well over the last 2 days I have done my first ever diesel 2.25 head gasket replacement (only done 2 in my life - 1st was a 998cc Mini, 2nd was this Landy!) With the help of the threads on this forum, YouTube, Haynes & a lot of patience - I attempted it. Once i release all four seized injectors, recovered the copper washers (2 deep on 1 & 4 cylinders) plus the nightmare corrugated bottom washers, stripped head nut, loose hotspot, & cleaned all the block & head mating surfaces - I couldnt really tell where the oil was getting into the water system as the previous gasket was composite & just broke apart - unfortunately the only head gasket set I could find locally at short notice was....Britpart non-re-tourque type (yeah I know) Needless to say after re-assembling carefully, re-torquing the gasket dry (it said this in the workshop manual about composite - non retorque type - installing dry) I have a very small oil leak from the head gasket no, but no oil in the water - the leak is from the front left of the head behind the water pump. I have torqued the head down cold to 90ft/lb - in 3 increments - 60, 80 & 90 using the sequence stated - could I risk just a little more, or just pull the head again & get a decent gasket (which type would you recommend & from where - remember I live in Malta!) Just in case I am trying to get one locally from an authorised Landy place - rather than the unauthorised ones! Copper or composite? - dry or with some type of sealant? Also the oil leak was from the same place as before! Thanks Guys Si
  9. Hey Guys, Whilst waiting for my spare parts from Paddocks to arrive after buying transmission brake seals after advice from a previous thread - I found copious amounts of oil in the radiator & Overflow/Expansion tank. But no water in the oil?...the engine is still cool, no overheating, according to the guage - & it has a 74 degree thermostat in - even in Malta where it is 30 degrees plus at the moment it is not overheating. The engine is not losing hardly any water (2 days monitoring) & oil is still fine - a little white & black smoke on startup. but goes after 2 minutes. Just a bit confused as obviously could be the HG but also could it be a block issue? I live in Malta so getting a pressure/leakdown test in not an option! Thanks Guys Si
  10. Hey Guys, Thanks a lot for all your advice! Gonna be ordering parts tomorrow and the above advice is a great help avoiding the pitfalls for the newbie. As for Snaggers comment on Patrick - unfortunately I do not know him, but sounds as though I should...so any contact info for him would be fantastic! Thanks Si
  11. Hi Guys, Total newbie to Land Rovers so apologies in advance for any wincing I am about to inflict on you all....I live in Malta & have just purchased a 1977 Series 3 as a workhorse, wife & 3 dog transporter. Did a lot of research into Land Rovers - what bad points to look out for while purchasing, after seeing a couple of absolutely neglected, oily monsters, I found what I think was a good buy for the money - a 39yr old vehicle will have its issues - oil being one of them, so this one only having 3 small ones was an eye opener....its a 2.25 Diesel. 2 of these are in and around the LT76 gearbox (266811 A.D.C.3) - the main one(s) being from the transmission brake - (always known as a handbrake to me - i'm learning) I am trying to find the correct part numbers for ALL of the seals from Paddock spares - I have also read there is a felt seal too? The leaks are from where the backplate join the transfer case (is that correct?) & from the front bottom of the drum (assume that is the seal behind the castle nut?) I have only had Tank (his name - my wife's idea after she drove it for the first & last time) for 3 days so not had chance to start tinkering & stripping - but needless to say I feel I am doing ok so far regarding diagnosis? Thanks guys in advance for any help Regards Si
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