SumDarkPlace

Look for an R380 from a d2, as late as possible. Should be suffix K or L, and be considerably more reliable. Should fit straight in, I'm told, although I haven't done it myself (abandoned project ). I believe you'll need the correct tunnel and floor plates, or you can cut and modify your originals, depending on if they've been changed for the auto. Auto converted Defenders seem to sell well, and are quite desirable, so I would be tempted to keep it auto.

I wonder which insanely rich person will be the first to suggest they want one with the supercharged version of this engine?!

Unfortunately, due to a crowded market and cheap far eastern imports, a kidney is only worth about £5k. Hence I won't be getting one of these

If the next Defender is based on a RR chassis, with even half the gadgets and off road capability, I'll be a happy man, and in the queue for one! Sit a 1983 110 next to a 1983 RR, and compare the tech, gadgets, and capabilities. They were quite clearly directly related to each other. Unfortunately, LR didn't develop the Defender to shadow development of the RR line. If the new Defender rectifies this, then I think they'll be moving in the right direction. The gap between the new Defender and the current RR clearly need to be a bit wider than in 1983, but much less than it was at the end of Defender production. I'll be trying to hang on to my '86 V8 90 weekend toy, but I'm hoping I can replace my RR Vogue daily with the new Defender in a couple of years.

With my old Mach5's I had to loosen the drive flange bolts slightly to allow the wheel on, then tighten them back up after. Can't do that with these wheels, so I'd go for cap head replacements for the drive flange bolts too.

It's a gearbox strip down and rebuild job I believe. A lot of work. May be easier to sell the V8 box and buy a good diesel one. I'm in a similar position. My V8 box has died, and I thought about buying a cheap diesel box and swapping the input shaft. Probably going to use the opportunity to go auto instead though.

Aftermarket 4.1 CW&P are a direct replacement, and much stronger. Some old Rover cars had a 4.1 CW&P that fits with a spacer, but they're really not strong enough, and aren't easy to find. I recently discovered one on an ARB locker I took to Nigel. Looked so close to a standard 3.54 that even Nige mistook it for one at first! I can recommend Xcess 4x4 for diffs (Nige, Hedghog_from_Hell on here). He's got a wealth of knowledge to see you right

BTW, I'd be more than happy to go on an all expenses paid trip to Italy to drink wine and look at the scenery look at Defenders...

The bit I haven't looked at yet is what issues I might have with the Italian authorities. Having never shipped out of Italy, and not speaking Italian, I'd be tempted to speak to a shipping agent there. I was always planning to put a built V8 in, so I'd need to either register it in UK, then make changes, or work out how to go about changing engine numbers and details with the Italian authorities. Much easier when importing to Canada or Cayman Islands, as there is no restriction on engine changes and originality, as long as the vehicle is over 15 years old. USA is far more difficult.

2 minutes on autoscout and I found 9 within my budget (which is more than the £6k the OP is working with). Also a nice V8 that I might have to look at more... I have a good friend who's Italian, and willing to assist with the legal side, which should help a bit As far as the actual physical conversion is concerned, that's the easy bit!

And that's why people like me discuss these ideas on forums like this, to get advice from fellow enthusiasts

We replaced the tube type bearings with 2 nut types on our 2013 110 before exporting it to the Caribbean. Parts are harder to get, so getting the extra life out of the bearings keeps the car on the road while new bearings make their slow way to the island!

Fair enough, didn't know that. If buying from Italy though, they sold a lot of MPi engined 90's, so already petrol. Might be the work around?

I've actually reconsidered Canada for the time being. Going to the Caribbean instead for a couple of years Which bit are you talking about?

I was planning on bringing a LHD 2002/3 TD5 from Italy, shoving a 4.6 and auto box from a P38 in, then shipping to Canada. Not completely sure it's possible, yet!

From reading around, I believe Canada is a little easier on that score. I have been told that as long as the engine is age appropriate, and the correct details are on the V5 (regardless of original numbers) you should be ok. Don't take my word for it, though. Speak to an importer for a better idea on that sort of detail.

I've been looking to possibly bring a Defender to Canada with me. I'd suggest looking in Italy, as the warm dry climate there means less rust, and they're left hand drive. I've hand LHD in the UK, and that was not much fun, so RHD in Canada was something I wanted to avoid! I've seen a few Italian Defenders for around your budget, but you won't get anything particularly nice! https://www.autoscout24.com/ is a good place to start

CTS has made a lot of difference, it starts from cold now The hesitation is still there. I finally got a timing light on it too, and discovered that the distributor will not rotate far enough to get it to 10 BTDC. The vacuum unit is jamming tight against the water pump. Currently set to 8 BTDC, which sounds like it's running nicer. It was set 0 BTDC before.

I also tried disconnecting the TPS with the AFM connected, the symptoms described didn't change at all. It made no difference.

Reading 170 Ohms is 100C, so pretty much normal operating temperature, so it should run right once warm. With the flapper, even when disconnected the flap will move, it just won't be sending a signal to the ecu. Running with the AFM disconnected means the ecu should only have a signal from the TPS to vary the injector duty for acceleration. What I don't know is what the ECU does when it doesn't have an AFM signal. When I disconnect it ticks over at slightly higher revs, and a slow movement of the throttle increases the revs initially, but a fast press kills it. This pretty much the same as with the AFM connected. I would expect that the ECU would respond to a TPS signal with immediate increase in fuelling to cover the lag before the AFM tells it how much extra air is being sucked in. Then the ECU should compare the two signals to adjust the fuel to match the load. Basically the TPS tells the ECU to accelerate, the AFM tells it how much load to accelerate against. I'm guessing this is compared to revs as well, which will also change the duty based on the map characteristics. I've got a spare ECU borrowed from a friend. Is the later PRC7440 ECU interchangeable with the earlier PRC4764 unit? Both are 4cu lucas units, but I don't want to blow up my friend's ECU unnecessarily! This thread has become something of a dump for my stream of consciousness on this problem, sorry!

I decided to recheck the TPS following the test process in the linked .pdf above. Voltage set right, and increases smoothly to 4.3V, but the injectors are not clicking as suggested by the instructions. However, as the engine isn't running, the injectors shouldn't fire, I think? When the TPS increases voltage, should the ECU be increasing the duty on the injectors? My symptoms would suggest that this isn't happening, and the slow pedal press acceleration is solely due to the airflow meter reading increasing duty. I tried disconnecting the airflow meter while running, and the revs increased slightly, but the throttle behaviour was the same. I think I may have an ECU problem

CTS is duff, reading 170 Ohms at all temps. Ordered a new one. Would this also result in the engine dying when the throttle is pressed quickly? It revs normally if the pedal is pressed slowly, but dies for a quick press. TPS is set correct, but I haven't checked air flow meter yet.

Thanks, that link works I'll run through some tests this morning, and hopefully have a handle on what's wrong. Later this year I'm going to replace the system with MS, so I don't want to spend much money on the current system.

I tried the tech archive. The link to the .pdf was broken. Does anyone have a working link?

I'm sure this has been discussed a few times in the past, and I've been searching the forum but to no avail. I have a RRC 3.5 flapper (4CU ECU) in my 90. It's not run right since I got it a couple of months ago. The main issue is cold start: it fires briefly then dies, next try does the same, and so on, each time getting slightly warmer, and running slightly longer, until it starts and ticks over normally. I've set the TPS to .325, disconnecting the 9th inj makes no difference, all wires and plugs checked. What's my next step? Coolant temp sensor? air flow meter? Any advice appreciated, I'm new to the rv8, and have just bought a 2nd one! (2001 Thor P38 4.0)