Geoff Jones

Gentleman, thank you for your collective help.... Sorry the update is late, but life isn't only our Land Rovers... (is it?) Anyway, re-sealing the sump stopped the leak at the junction of the sump and the flywheel cover.... The other rear main seal leak just poured out of the wading plug hole.. again! and it was a Genuine rear seal. I contacted the gentleman that I purchased the rebuilt engine from and he did the truly honorable thing... Drove 3 hours each way to deliver another rebuilt 300tdi and offered to assist me in the swap. I changed the engine and all is well.... The cause of the leak is still a mystery until Richard tears the engine apart to try and find an answer. I would HIGHLY recommend Rover Resource to anyone interested in purchasing a rebuilt 200 or 300tdi... (in the United States) his service was exceptional. www.roverresource.com

Thank you, Gentlemen for your thoughts... Monkie, this is a R380 stubby from Ashcroft using the Flywheel housing from the 300tdi... Yes, new rear main seal was genuine. Neil110... wading plug was in base of flywheel cover so oil accumulated there... Yes, it trashed the clutch... Thanks for your help.... I pulled the sump and re-sealed. Check tomorrow if that at least stopped one of the leaks...

Greetings... This is a rebuilt 300tdi that I've purchased to replace the 12J in my 110 ExMOD. Here's the issue, install went great, all fuel, coolant and inter cooler issues sorted. First start up went great, short test drive OK, but dumped about 2 quarts of oil in the garage upon return. It was pouring out of the hole at the bottom of the Flywheel cover... The wading plug was not in place... I immediately assumed rear main seal. Pulled the trans and flywheel, replaced rear main seal and gasket, replaced the flywheel and trans... first start up, as soon as engine started to warm it was again dripping from the hole in the bottom of the flywheel cover. There also seemed to be a slow drip from the area where the oil pan gasket meets the flywheel cover. I'm really confused, one leak is from within the other from outside... any help / solution / thoughts are much appreciated. I really don't know where to go next...

Thank you Monkie... I had the same optimistic view that it could be sneaking down the front from the VC gasket... wiped it clean and drove it around for an hour or so... Bubbling out about the same place.. We have ordered all of the appropriate gaskets and seals to complete... as always, thank you for your expert advice..

Well... I guess this is the typical LR saga... just when you think all is well, the s**t hits the fan... After all the drama, (see thread above) and after running great for several days.. and still is running great, we've discovered what appears to be an oil leak from between the block and the head. This appears to be new, although the engine was not tidy before and some oil fouling may have been present... but I don't think so... So what now? bite the bullet and order a head gasket kit? Photo... look at front of block...beneath number one glow plug area.... BTW, we've cleaned the area and run on the road again and it appears to be "bubbling" out at the same place...

Update: We pulled the rocker assembly (again), replaced the tension springs and washers on rocker shaft, replaced all rods... Reassembled and set valve clearances... Smooth idle, revs cleanly, only a small puff of smoke on cold start up. We will check valve clearances again after 500 miles or so just for peace of mind. Good news and problem solved with the great advice from this site! Special thanks to Monkie, Bowie69 and all others who helped.. Cheers, Geoff

Bowie69 and Monkie... thank you for your input. Update: Pulled the rockers and inspected the rods... One is quite bent, two slightly bent and the rest appear to be fine. We ordered 8 new pushrods, the four rocker shaft spring as well as valve caps. The brass on the lifters appear to be slightly marred... hard to really see down there... but none appear to have any fractures. are we safe to just do the rods, springs and caps? I really don't want to pull the head if it isn't absolutely necessary.... Thanks again for all of your help and advice... Geoff

Identical to system fitted to North American spec 1993 110... the ONLY year the 110 was imported to USA / Canada...

Monkie, thank you for your follow up... So, we started over and carefully bled all the components... Fuel at filter, FIP and at each injector... tried, no start, no cough, no popping just a smooth cranking. We pulled the timing cover and almost had a heart attack. The nut holding the toothed sprocket for the FIP had come off and was laying in the timing cover... the sprocket had moved forward enough to allow the belt to come off... all I could picture was bent rods, broken rockers etc. We replaced the sprocket, started from scratch found TDC on the crank and re-timed the timing belt. It actually started right up, but really ran rough with LOTS of backfiring through the intake. We pulled the valve cover and were surprised not to see any visible damage to the visible valve train. we adjusted the valves which all were WAY off... started right up and ran smoothly, had good throttle response came up to temp ran at higher rpm's then idled smooth. could we really be this lucky? Here's what I think happened. Prior owner had replaced FIP.... I'm assuming now that they just unbolted the pump from the back and used the inspection port to slide pump into pulley, not removing the timing cover. Obviously they had tightened the sprocket bolt but never went back and torqued. We replaced the timing belt but never torqued that nut because we had never removed it! Lesson learned, torque everything in sight when doing service!!! Engine was cranked on the starter but never run with slipped belt.... Hoping valves were just "pushed around" at low RPM and not damaged. OMG, what a saga....

Thank you all for your replies... We will be at the garage on Thursday and basically start over... Bleed the filter, bleed the injection pump, bleed each individual injector pipe... attempt to start. If no start, pull the timing cover etc and check the timing, then re-adjust the valves... Yes, we did two full rotations and reset tensioner... (followed Les's excellent tutorial exactly) If no start then.... God only knows... Hit the pub?

Monkie... Yes there were two marks on the fuel injector pump sprocket. One was a dot, the other was the letter F. We used the dot as was instructed in the manual. We also confirmed current to the glow plugs... Also fuel to each injector. We DID find a cracked hose on the return line from number 4 injector to the fuel filter and replaced it... Still no start... frustrating.

Thanks Roverdrive and Monkie... Yes, I'm very confident that the timing was set up properly.... Here's an interesting fact I just recalled. When we first took the timing cover off and lined up the crankshaft dots... The cam dots were spot on, but the fuel pump appeared to be half a tooth off. We obviously corrected this when we replaced the belt and torqued the tensioner... we assumed this might have been the cause for the previous smoke / noisy running.. I don't remember which direction it was off....

Thanks to all who replied. We've carefully bled the filter, bleed screw on fuel distribution pump and cracked each injector tube and have fuel... Still no start... ! Question, if it's the solenoid.... should I be able to feel it click when someone turns the key on?

Greetings... My friend is in the process of doing a body off restoration on his '92 D90 Ex-Mod. All is going quite well with new outriggers and rear cross member. Tub is back on and aligned. Before replacing the front wings we decided to start it.. months since it ran.. but always started right up before. Note: while body was off we did a routine timing belt change and valve adjustment. Attempted to start, nothing but cranking. Checked for voltage at injector pump solenoid... all good. Checked for fuel at fuel filter via fuel pump lift... no issue. Also checked for fuel at fuel distributor bleed screw... again, no issue. With my limited knowledge, I'm out of ideas / things to check... Please share any thoughts you think may be helpful. Thanks in advance, Geoff

Thank you all for your collective wisdom... All seven bolts out with no problem. Replaced with new bolts and copper slip to prevent future issues. Thanks again, Geoff

Greetings... I'm about to assist a good friend with his Timing Belt change. I've learned from doing my own TB that often the water pump removal can be an issue with broken bolts, My question is , besides soaking the bolts prior to removal with Liquid Wrench... would heat be appropriate? Not excessive heat, but perhaps a little propane prior to attempting to remove. Or, do we risk warping the aluminum timing belt cover. I've lived through the horror of getting broken bolts out, drilling out stubs, or re-tapping holes to a larger size and would like to spare us the agony. Any advice is welcome, thanks in advance.. Geoff

Boarder... You'll need to add the reversing light switch to the rear of the transmission housing to utilize the reverse light. There is a blanking bolt in there currently. Accessible by removing the plate on the seat box between the two front seats. The correct part number (on my '87) is PRC2911G (Lucas). Western is correct... of course.. all of the wiring is already there behind the corner plates in the rear cargo area. Good luck!

Thanks Western.. Appreciate the link. Maybe someone that was in the British military during those years can help...

Greetings, In the process of sanding off the many layers of green IRR paint... these chevrons were discovered. I measured and photographed them so I could faithfully reproduce after the re-paint with Nato green. Can anyone help me identify exactly what they represent? They were also on the tailgate. This may be very obvious to you in the UK.. but present a mystery to me in the US, I'm familiar with the universal chevron, pointing upwards for the allied forces in Desert Shield / Desert Storm... but don't have a clue regarding these chevrons pointing to the side... Thanks in advance for your help... Geoff

yes, that makes sense.... how'd I miss that! Thanks for the help..

Greetings.... Does anyone know offhand where the oil temp sender is located on the 12J. Seems it should be an easy find... My gauge is not functioning. Thanks in advance, Geoff