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Everything posted by Naks

  1. What is the CCA (cold cranking amps)? IIRC, with diesels, the highest cranking power you have, the better!
  2. Still waiting for my friend to send me a pic. However, my radio looks like it's a Visteon, and the former owner of my Disco had this to say about the issue: "I had exactly the same (problem) and the above procedure (Turn the ignition to the on position and switch the radio on. Then leave it for around 45 minutes and it should reset and ask for the pin again) worked for me. Radio said "locked" or something and after about 45 minutes with the ignition on the "ON" position and radio switched on (showing that "locked" message), it reset." So this is getting very confusing now. According to the RAVE manual, the Visteon cannot be unlocked once it's locked itself. But the previous owner did exactly that!?
  3. Hi all Friend of mine has a 2003 facelift Disco 2 with a factory fitted RADIO / CD Player. "Somebody" tried to get the radio going by inserting a invalid code resulting in the radio now being "locked". The LR dealer advised that the radio is now u/s and need to be repaced with a new unit at a cost of R6k. I have kept it on for 8 hours continuously. I have disconnected the battery and also waited for a couple of day's, but to no avail. According to the LR agent, the code was tried once too many and this resulted in the radio being locked "permanently" - is this true? Can this radio not be reset at all?
  4. Nope, the pre-MY02 Td5 ECU's also cannot be remapped.
  5. As soon as you go off the black stuff, CDL should be engaged. I've driven over 1000kms over 2 days in Namibia with the CDL engaged, sometimes at speeds of up to 110kmh with no issues.
  6. Ashley, the 52mm round dials are extremely hard to find. I was looking for one to put in my D2. Eventually I had to fit the Madman one, it goes nicely in the space for the sunroof switches. It also goes nicely on the Defender dash IIRC.
  7. Hi all Was reading about another thread where a 200Tdi engine was replaced with a Chevy v8, and that got me thinking: if you wanted to replace a Td5 engine with another diesel, what would the best choice be?
  8. the 'Freeloader' is one of the most under-rated 4x4's ever produced. A few years ago, my gf got bored. She loaded her freeloader with camping gear, 3 friends and went driving around Botswana (on road tyres). They crossed the Mkgadigadi Pans without deflating tyres, and got stuck only once in a damp patch. They got out of it by laying their firewood (all of 5-6 logs) under ONE front wheel. Once that wheel got some traction, they were in the clear. Needless to say, if that were a Defender/Disco they had been driving, they probably would still be there Although if you've never seen the Makgadigadi salt pans and how vehicles can get stuck there, you probably will not appreciate this story The only reason NOT to get a freeloader is the build quality & reliability, although most of these issues were fixed with the facelift. In SA they were coming out of the BMW assembly plant not even completed - some were missing complete brake units, others engines, etc. In this part of the world, it has a rep as the worst LR ever produced.
  9. I currently have BFG AT's 245/70 that won't last much longer. After much research I will be putting on Bridgestone Dueller AT D694 245/75. Going any bigger would affect the gearing too much IMHO.
  10. I had that issue on my previous Defender - it's the brake fluid level. Just top it off and it should go away.
  11. Running on BFG/AT 245/70R16's Tar Unladen : 2.3F 2.5R Fully Loaded: 2.5F 2.7R Gravel Unladen : 2.1F 2.3R Fully Loaded: 2.3F 2.5R Sand Unladen : 1.2F 1.4R Fully Loaded: 1.6F 1.8R Offroad Unladen : 1.8F 2.0R Fully Loaded: 2.0F 2.2R
  12. Some more pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/n.sunassee/MontEcoNatureReserve# I particularly like these. Notice SWAMBO is smiling in the first pic, and then the shock-horror as the landy goes up in the air on 2 wheels and starts bobbing up and down. I had to try very hard not to fall down, I was laughing so hard *lol*
  13. D2 doing what it does best at MontEco Nature Reserve in the Karoo even spotted some wildlife:
  14. Ok, front wheel alignment was out by 5mm. So this played a part in the left pull, but still does not get rid of the braking issue. So it's probably the brake line on the front right wheel that is somewhat clogged, resulting in less brake pressure to that wheel.
  15. Jimbo, the landy is back from the mechanic. He found nothing wrong with the brakes themselves. He did bleed the entire system and put in new brake fluid. He thinks it might actually be the brake line - being made of rubber, it can sometimes develop 'bubbles' inside which would restrict the flow of brake fluid. However he wants me to check the wheel alignment first, which I will do this afternoon. If that checks out ok, then the brake line on the front right will have to be changed.
  16. Mine's the same. And also pulls sharply to the left under braking. It's getting checked out this week, will get the mechanic to bleed the whole system and will keep you posted.
  17. 2004 models all had a difflock. Can u push the lever to the left? If so, there is a difflock.
  18. Ok, so after 2 separate landy experts checked out the car, they say the brakes are on par for a D2. However, i have noticed a problem that is getting worse. When I step on the brakes, esp on a slight downhill, the car dives to the left. And I mean dives - the steering wheel even turns to the left. On a level road or uphill this is not noticeable, but any downhill and the steering just yanks to the left when I brake. Anyone ever experienced this or know what this is?
  19. erm, I've never tried. But your observation that it's always been like that - I've also heard the same from another D2 owner...
  20. hmmm, yes, but what? Wrong fluid? Master cylinder? Discs & pads have been checked and nothing wrong there!?
  21. Hi all Is this indicative of a problem with the brakes: when I press the brake pedal it is soft with a long-ish travel, but after quick release it is then hard and the D2 slows down quicker? The brake fluid level is normal and no leakages anywhere. My mechanic says there's nothing wrong with them, but am I weird to want more stopping power :? How about something like this: Powerbrake for 4x4's?
  22. fr*ck!!! the coolant leak is back! while driving home from work on Friday night the LBB alarm came on again. Pulled into the nearest garage to check the coolant level and it was ok. Got home 10km later (doing 40kmh) and the coolant level was way down and dripping on the pavement. The coolant is definitely leaking out onto the pavement, so at least I know there's a leak somewhere. It is probably the same one I had a couple of week ago from the cracked rubber blank-off on the oil cooler (somewhere underneath the turbo heat shield). I crawled underneath the Disco and found spots of oil on the bottom of the transfer box that seem to be coming from above it. The oil is very thin, and it could be mixed with water - that's never a good sign, is it? Pretty much everything else is also coated in a thin film of oil. Can anyone take a look at these pics and let me know if this normal or not? http://picasaweb.google.com/n.sunassee/Disco2# - the last 5 pics. thanks!
  23. I'm also in the process of researching tents for an overlanding trip next yr to Botswana & Namibia. After considering the various brands, I'm tending towards a Hannibal Impi. the only problem with this setup is the weight @ 60kg, BUT one does not need a roofrack (weight of +-30kg), and forces one not to pack heavy stuff on the roof. I reckon with this kind of setup, you will end up with a COG that is lower than with a roofrack + tent + jerrycan, etc.
  24. Yebo, by Burnco. the only problem with these is that they got the dimension for the rear bumper light cluster wrong, so the standard Disco2 light cluster does not fit. Which means I am driving around with no reverse lights but with 4 indicator lights and 4 brake lights
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