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Naks

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Everything posted by Naks

  1. Naks

    Failed MOT

    speaking of which. My gf took the D2 to get its roadworthy (that's an MOT in SA). They failed it because... 'the spot lights are not connected'. and then passed it when she promised to get it fixed asap. and then thn auto-electrician hooked them up to the brights... without a switch.
  2. sho' left for the instructions M&S
  3. M&S, I'm *very* keen to get a worklight like urs installed on my D2. I do have a couple of questions: 1. Did you have to drill into the body to fit this worklight? 2. Did you fit the on/off switch on the dashboard or is it on the light itself? My D2 has an off-road bumper, so at the moment I don't have a reverse light. My plan is to install the worklight with a dash-mounted switch and also use it as the reverse light
  4. Hi all I'm getting my D2 this weekend - cannot wait. When I bought my Defender, the first thing I did was to replace the headlight lamps with something brighter. Will I need to do the same with the D2 or does it have good ones? Also, how easy would it be to put HID headlights on? thanks Naks
  5. Hi all I'm hoping to get some ideas on this issue I'm having with my Td5 landy. It happens when I start the engine in the morning when going to work: 1. Start engine, foot off the accelerator and in neutral gear. 2. Let engine idle 3. approx 15-20seconds later, the engine skips a beat I'm wondering what might be causing this? Thanks Naks
  6. yeah... and there are elephants and lions roaming in my backyard
  7. that is weird. Defenders are very rarely stolen in South Africa!?
  8. Adi, the Discovery is the 'luxury' version of the Defender. The cabin is more comfortable, more luxurious, and wayyyy quieter than the Defender. Also, the Disco has traction control, which the Defender does not have (except the later 2006-2007 Td5 models) and you can also have it in automatic. In that respect, the Disco can sometimes get further than a Defender, esp on loose surfaces - the TC is very good on Discos. I was in your situation a year ago, and after many trips in my Defender, in retrospect I would have bought the Discovery - after a long day's drive in the hot African sun, you will feel less tired in a Disco than in a Defender especially if the Disco is an auto. The aircon in a Defender is utterly useless, the driving position is a nightmare if you're taller than 160cm, and the handbrake position was designed by a sadist. if you're looking at the Td5 auto, then you should look out for the usual Td5 problems: oil in ECU harness, AVOID a Disco where the engine/turbo has been replaced - it could indicate other problems, esp in the cooling system. that said, it's a Land Rover. I tell my friends we don't have kids, we have a LR - they cost about the same in the long term
  9. thanks. I phoned Schalk Burger 4x4, my local mechanic and told them about the warning light. They told me to come in straight away. He plugged into the ECU saw the crank noise warning in the log. They took a look and saw it was dirty (probably from all the sand/dirt during last weekend's LR Experience course). They cleaned it and sent me home. And didn't even charge me.
  10. Hi all for the second time in 2 weeks now, I've noticed that the engine warning light (same as the pic but without the CHECK label) has come on when I'm driving around town. No other warning lights, no power loss, no overheating, no weird sounds, just the amber engine warning light. When I switch the engine off and then switch it back on, it goes away. should I be worried? Picture of warning light
  11. yeah, but that involves cutting into the wheelarch - not keen to do that
  12. that's what I have now, a 60/40 split bench seat.
  13. Jim, do u know anyone in/around Cape Town that can do this mod?
  14. That was my first option. I even bought & refurbished 2 Defender front seats. But they are too big and will not fit inside the cabin unless I cut into the wheelarch, and I don't really want to start messing with the bodywork.
  15. Hi all I would like to know from the 110 owners if they have upgraded or replaced that devilish rear bench seat, and if so, what/how they have done. I see Exmoor Trim has a conversion kit with nice seats. Unfortunately I am in SA and they won't ship to me even if the 15/1 pound/rand exchange rate didn't kill me first so any advie for other ways/means would be much appreciated
  16. perfectly safe, my mechanic did it both ways - first he removed the rear one and drove on front wheels only. then the removed the front one and drove on rear wheels only. of course, once you remove either propshaft, you have to engage the CDL to be able to drive
  17. baaah, spanners are for wussies! Here in Africa we use our bare hands & fingers
  18. Ok, I was still confused so I crawled underneath the landy and took some pics. The first one is of the right front wheel from the back. There are 2 bolts, I've highlighted them in blue and red, but to me they look like part of the brake assembly. The second one is of the right front wheel from the front. There's one bolt that I could see that sticks out a bit, highlighted in red. I've also found this PDF document which details how to do this, but according to the diagram, it looks like a bolt from my first pic!? which one is it? Defender_Steering_lock_adjustment.pdf
  19. thanks. i kinda figured that part out
  20. it doesn't. I think when the mechanics re-assembled the front axle they must have put everything back to 'normal' settings, including the lock stop.
  21. erm. ok. considering my DIY skills are mostly restricted to connecting my DvD to the TV, this can't possibly go wrong anyone have any pics perhaps?
  22. hmm, could be. If it is that, how easy will it be to fix it myself?
  23. Hi isborn sounds a lot like what I was experiencing, although mine was at 60kmh, irrespective of gear or rpms. You will need to replace the front propshaft, that should sort it out. If you have lifted the suspension then you might have to go for a Disco2 propshaft because of the steeper angle on the propshaft.
  24. one of the most common Defender mods here in SA is to rubberize the entire interior floor. It insulates the noise and heat from the gearbox somewhat, but mostly, it allows you to cross muddy rivers and afterwards just hose the interior down for a clean cabin most people go for a professional job such as Rhino Linings, while others do a DIY job usually with something like Durabak.
  25. Hi all! I'm new here and hoping someone will be able to help me out with this problem on my 2005 defender 110 Td5 double-cab. The story thus far: I bought my landy in Feb 2008, it had already been modified extensively by the previous owner: Dastek ECU Chip, OME Suspension, Snorkel, LR Tank, H2O tank, Dual Battery system with power outlets all over the place, IPF Spotlights, Bucket Seats, Bull Bar, Roll Bars, Sump Guard, Fuel Tank Guard, Lockable Canopy, etc. When I took delivery, there was a grinding noise from the front axle when turning full-lock, because the tyres were too big - 285 BFG AT's and rubbing against the suspension arm, so I changed them to 265 ones and that was solved. Went off-road a couple of months ago, and on the way back this grinding noise started coming from the front axle at 60kmh only, under drive or coast. I took it to a defender specialist who took apart the entire drivetrain, until he found that the OME lift of 75mm was above LR specs, and the front propshaft's angle was too steep. So he replaced the front propshaft with a double cardan one, reset the diff settings which were a bit off, re-oiled & re-greased everything. The landy now runs super smoothly, and feels like a new one all the way to 120kmh. BUT, the tyre grinding noise has returned when turning at full-lock!? Why is this happening again, the tyres are the same! Can anyone shed some light on this for me please? I've attached some pics of the new propshaft & front right suspension. Thanks Naks
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