Wheely

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About Wheely

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  1. Hey @Jocklandjohn - ye sand-blasting probably too much - a good 80 GRIT sand paper should be sufficient to remove the surface rust - it's mainly in the foot-well/firewalls. Good point on whether the kaiflex glue would stick on top of the Gravitex/Acid primer - I will see how i can test that. The metal plate then can have a nice rubber floor mat on top The kaiflex seems pretty delicate - push in a finger and you create a decompression - stepping daily on it would eventually brake it... I have seen a few people using dynamat and stepping on it but i guess that's a different material?
  2. Hi guys, read various of the posts on Waxoyling and have few questions: -In his very useful thread @Happyoldgit had 5L for the Black Waxoyl and the Standard Waxoyl - across the post there was no mention of where to use which one... - Besides the clear cavities/spots where to the wax is there a guide that includes them all as some as not straight-forward e.g. remove the doors to access the bulk head cavity. - During the cleaning prior to the waxing it is advisable to put high-pressure water in the chassis holes as these are dirty with dry mud etc? or the water will be trapped inside and mess up the Waxoyl? -Where do you recommend to buy a Schutz gun with a 1) long extension (mine is a 6x4 chassis) 2) 360 degrees mushroom head cavity spray pattern wand 3) the 45 degree underbody head? Something like this http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-wand-set/p413022 but that is suited to a normal Shutz gun Thanks a lot! Simone
  3. Thanks a lot guys, you made my day!
  4. cool - I get it now, the one highlighted in red in this new attachment. so for you the number 3 had to be blanked off and cut down whilst for me will be the fuel return - I am on the right track? Really hope that the when I take off the old tank it will match the one I bought ( fingers crossed !!!) so that all pipes/openings etc will match... it's easy to take down, check, and fit back whilst I am waiting to paint the new tank? I am saying this as I am going back home to Italy for a week, and will do the change then, wouldn't want to come back and find that something is wrong when I could have bought whatever I would have needed back at home...
  5. oh that's good news - I thought something was wrong with the tank I bought :S So the one i circled in red is the fuel return then? in the pic of Western that is point 2 (tank breather flexi hose to fill point neck) - nothing else I should cross-check whilst I am at it? a couple of quids saved on the washers then no other things needed? Thanks a lot Simone
  6. Thanks a bunch @western for this, very useful to understand what is what. In my tank I identify all of your openings but point 4 - I have a decompression but no hole - see picture attached ( !! ) is that the standard on the NRC9515 ? Where would the fuel return line pipe be then??
  7. Great feedback @Jocklandjohn! I have been doing some research and I think the following plan is a good one:I would prep the panels by sand blasting them, apply rust-converter is there is any rust left, then apply UPOL #8 Acid primer, then UPOL Gravitex and then applying the Kaiflex on it. Since the Kaiflex shouldn't be exposed to pressure I plan to cover it with metal sheets to give it this effect: https://goo.gl/images/5XYMGV - how did you fix the insulation to allow it to be removed for cleaning etc?-Gravitex should help to deaden sound and vibrations (as per UPOL TDS- attached)-Kaiflex can be exposed to water as it is a closed cell PVC/NBR foam.-I would apply rubber plugs to the holes (http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-plugs-m10/p405074)...What are your thoughts on this plan? anything i should add/remove/change of it? Thanks a lot! Simone GRAVITEX.pdf
  8. Great guys, thanks! I checked and my tank has only 2 holes (one for the hole to fill the tank and the other one to send the diesel to the engine) + 1 drain plug. So i guess I would only need 1 washer to replace the rubber one I bought (ARA1502L) that goes with the locking ring? Any thoughts on the paints I posted earlier on? Thanks a lot! Simone
  9. Great stuff @steve b - the tank I have is the NRC9515 https://www.lrdirect.com/NRC9515-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html - which of the two washers you suggested I would need? how many? I will try to fit the guard panel now and leave it for a few days and hopefully it will go in shape - thanks a lot for the tip! On the thread I will include the plans I have and progress made - it'll be fun as here in Ghana you gotta be very creative to get stuff done (lack of skilled labour, lack of products, ...) - Wheely had a 3.5L V8 which got spoilt and was changed onto a 200TDI before I bought it... I will see how I can upgrade it to make it last the overland trip I have in mind
  10. Thanks @nickwilliams for sharing your thoughts I am sanding away the original crappy spray finish - then self-etch prime, followed by Gravitex, and to finish off paint it up --> my question is which of the paints you would recommend (I have attached the TDS as well). Thanks!
  11. Thanks for your tips @steve b! I am waiting to do some nice pics offroad before doing a write-up - it's a 6x4 carmichael firetruck I bought in auction in Ghana! Prepping it to do an Africa overland in some time 1) Do you have the part number for the fibre sealing washer? The ones I bought with the Bearmach tank are ARA1502L (https://www.lrdirect.com/ARA1502L-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html) and the locking ring ARA1501L ( https://www.lrdirect.com/ARA1501L-supplied-by-allmakes-branded-allmakes.html). 2) your second point means to actually fit the guard plate on the tank for a while before actually fitting it so that it gets into the right shape? Cheers!
  12. Today I did some further research in town and found the 2 following paints:BASF MasterEmaco® 8100 AP: Single component epoxy based zinc rich primer for steelBerger ZINCANODE 600: A two pack epoxy zinc rich primer.Any thoughts on these two compared to the ones of Sikkens?thank a bunch! BASF.pdf BERGER.pdf Washprimer.pdf S5.2.49_Autocryl Plus_AUS.pdf TDS Sikkens Autobase Plus 041417 English.pdf
  13. Hi @western, took a while to explore what is available in Ghana Your input would be greatly appreciated So the plan I have settled for is: 1) Sand-paper the tank to skim the original paint and allow prime to attach to steel (100GRIT) 2) Prime it 3) Light-Sand paper it (400 GRIT) 4) Gravitex it 5) Paint it Point 1,3 and 4 are sorted, for point 2 and 4 I have some perplexities as it’s the first time I am exploring the ‘paints’ world and there are many choices (very confusing). · the primer I found is a sikkens ‘wash-primer 1K CF’ which is a one component chrome-free, self-etching primer that offers corrosion resistance without the use of metal preps and conditioners – it can be used for priming steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Primers/Washprimer 1K CF Is this the right primer to use or would you recommend me to use another one? I can see online that there are etch-primers, primers, etc… and I am not sure which one would be best for my intended use ( I guess the primer to be used also depends on the pain that will be applied on top?). With regards to the paint to apply on top of it, Sikkens has either Base coat or Top coat (not sure the difference across the two – great if you could clarify) · Autobase plus (basecoat): solvent borne basecoat provides excellent coverage, metallic control and sprayability when used to duplicate OEM solid, metallic and pearl color effects. It says that this has to be used in conjuntion with a clear-coat (also available at Sikkens in either 1k or 2k variant). However in the TDS I see that this this paint cannot be applied over acid containting wash primers so it looks like I can’t use this with the washprimer that Sikkens has (?) - http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Basecoats/Autobase Plus MM · Autocryl plus (top coat): Two-pack acrylic enamel for cars. To be used with hardener P25/35 and Plus Reducers. http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Topcoats/Autocryl Plus MM Not sure is these are fine as they look more for bodywork than for a use like the tank. Harry didn't feedback yet on the zinc-rich paint available in Ghana so I need to look some something else in the meanwhile An interesting chassis coating paint that is the winner of the rust test of Classics Monthly 2013 is Epoxy Mastic 121 which is a is a two-pack surface tolerant high solids epoxy mastic coating. http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/ Would this be suitable for a tank? I am going to Europe for vacation and could buy it. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts, much appreciated. Simone
  14. Sorry I meant PU sealant! My rear is separated from the front with a section/partition of aluminium - for sure I would look anyway at putting a grill to make it as safe as possible as in the rear eventually is where I will camperize Wheely! But for the meanwhile the PU sealant is a good call - is there a guide with pictures on how to do that? Nice the hinge protection plates from YRM! A more expensive alternative (GBP28 each) to the idea of @Tanuki of putting suitably-sized ball bearings and glue them into the 'heads' of the Torx-bolts on the hinges using quick-set epoxy
  15. So basically i need to remove the glass, put the silicone and put it back in?