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About Wheely

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  1. For now I just need a starting battery as I wouldn't be using the leisure one. I will be here in Africa so not sure the CCA would be that important - which is the key info i need to look out for in the battery to identify the one most suited besides putting the biggest one that fits the battery box? Also, when buying the battery is important to identify the year of production of the battery? I was trying to look for it on the batteries I checked out but couldn't find it clearly labelled.
  2. Hi all, I am in Ghana and my current 17 plates battery finally left me! So I am in the lookout for another battery and want to ensure to get one that will be fine for Wheely (Defender with a Discovery 200 TDI fitted) that I am prepping for my overland across Africa - i won't fit a winch but some LED lights both inside (camperised) and outside (headlights). What are the key info that I need to be in the lookout for to select the best one available ? Plate? Capacity AH20HR AH5HR, charing cycles? Please note that I'd love the battery to keep charge for 2-3 months when not in use. I found a YUASA distributor here, these are the model offered: http://www.yuasabattery.com.my/option/mod_product_listing/mid/3419/cid/1561| How are these? Cheers, Simone
  3. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    ok makes sense - if I was to grease the splines (by removing the drive flange) before every long trip would the same result be achieved or still better to perform this mod?
  4. There's a hole in my battery box

    ok easy enough, so i can just get a welder hereto cut and weld I guess the hole forms because of the acid of the battery? any material that should be put in the battery box to avoid the acid from messing around?
  5. There's a hole in my battery box

    Hi Guys, My battery box is having a hole in the battery-box - nothing major - is it possible to fix it in a simple way in your opinion or need to change it with one of the YRM pieces? Thanks! Simone
  6. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    thanks for the feedback - so basically the sharper they get the more likely that they will fail? I will fit them back and assess if have some play - how much play is allowed before these have to be replaced? I am going on a 2000km trip in central Ghana soon so it'd be good to be set on this Thanks Simone
  7. Leaking and missing rear Axle number

    Heya, This weekend i progressed with this work - but had a few challenges: 1) I tried changing also the transfer box oil seal, flange, etc - as indicated earlier in this thread. However the flange that is fitted on my landy has 2 screws on the side besides the 4 bolts - pic attached - and the one that i bought (part number frc5442) didn't have that - so I wasn't able to change it. What is the part number of mine? from the picture you feel this flange needs to be replaced or the leaking can be mainly referred to the oil seal (which I was able change) ? 2) My mechanic said that the transfer box bearing and the one for the differential housing were fine (stc1130) so he didn't replace these (nor the other part 607197 of the differential housing) - is it worth changing it anyway since now i have bought the piece or best to leave it in place until further date (ideally before it brakes and it creates issues)? 3) The bolts I was missing in the transfer box have been replaced (fs108301l) - however as you can see from the attached these are longer than the original ones - are they going to be fine or shall i replace with the ones of the same height? Thanks a lot!!! Simone
  8. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    Here you go - these are the previous ones - is it so bad like the mechanic says? shall i also buy gaskets? --> ''There is a seal on the stub axle that seals the hub from the axle tube'' --> What's the part number of the seal that I should remove? so i can see the picture and make sure i remove the right one
  9. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    Thanks - i will look into it when replacing the drive flange and remove the seal. Mine is a 1995 110 (VIN: SALLDHMV8TA975201) - the front axle number is: 64I 17310A - what type of flange would I then have? I have already bought a bunch of parts that didn't fit as I didn't do a thorough research before buying - would rather avoid doing the same this time round The OEM is 24 quid for a pair - the Ashcroft standard one (not HD) is 36 - worth the difference to get Ashcroft ? is there a gasket I also need to buy when fitting a new drive flange? thanks for your support
  10. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    Cool thanks for your suggestions guys, much appreciated. I'd then stick with the standard ones as I don't do competition and my offroading is light with my heavy 6 wheelers beast! Are there different part numbers for these drive flanges or all are the same ? worth buying then the ashcroft standard one: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/drive-flanges/ruc105200.html Shall I change all of the six whilst I am at it, or just the front pair (since one of them got busted)? When you say: 'pop the internal seal out of the stub axle & let the axle oil get to the shaft end/driving member splines' you mean to pinch the hub seal for some of the EP90 to flow across? wouldn't that eventually lead all of the oil to finish? Thanks! Simone
  11. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    great - that reassures me, thanks Western! I have a dedicated 'upgrade Defender' saving account - so if you guys feel this upgrade is worth 90 quid (for 2) I can do it! What would be the benefit of the HD against the original ones? cheers, SImone
  12. Hey all, I changed my hub seals yesterday and my mechanic told me the the driving member teeth are all eaten up so I should get another one - few questions: 1-if the driving member has the teeth eaten up, is another part also worth being replaced? 2- what driving member would you suggest buying? worth upgrading to the HD ones like these: https://bearmach.com/heavy-duty-drive-member-nut-br-0465a Thanks for your support as always! Cheers Simone
  13. Leaking and missing rear Axle number

    thanks @western and @Les Henson!! finally I am working on this - as when I did the hub bearings, shall I put grease thoroughly on these 2 bearings here? !!!!
  14. Hi All, As you might have read in another thread I am preparing my 6x6 Land Rover Defender for an overland trip across Africa. I am in Ghana at the moment. The chassis is in great conditions - I want to paint it as i will be staying on the coast for long. I have found the Jotun products here so will be applying jotamastic-87-aluminium (https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/primers/jotamastic-range/jotamastic-87-aluminium) The bodyshell is still mounted - the truck will be raised from the ground and the Jotamastic applied in situ Few questions: -how shall i prep the surface of the chassis? would a thorough wash with a strong water jet be sufficient or shall i also wire-brush? -besides the chassis also the external lower part of the bodywork will be painted (the external part of the floor) + the axles - any advice on how to best do that? -it will be applied with airless gun - anything that I should cover to avoid it painting (e.g. calipers, fuel hoses, ..) -the local vendor told me that it can be atomised within the cavities (like you'd do with Dinistrol) - what are your thoughts on that? -Would applying a top-coat have any impact on the resistance of it? I don't mind the cosmetic look Thanks very much, Simone
  15. Prep to fit new fuel tank

    ok, the outside is finally sorted! thanks so much everyone! Do you guys recommend any treatment for the inner surface of the tank to prevent any rusting from the inside-out in the future?