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Wheely last won the day on June 4 2018

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  1. Hey guys, started to change the clutch over the weekend - good fun doing it, and Ghanaians always create a tool whenever they don't have what's needed - however I have a question for you: there were 3 main bolts involved in the change (1-2-3 in the pics attached). I looked on the 200 TDI workshop manual (1993 edition - link here). From it I understand that 1 is the housing flywheel to cylinder block (NM 45), 2 is the flywheel to crankshaft (NM 147) and 3 is the clutch cover plate to flywheel (NM 34). The person who sold to me the clutch kit told me that 2 had to be done at 40NM and 3 at 28NM. So I am confused as to why the torque would be so different, especially for 2. Can you clarify what I am missing out? I also asked him but would love a 3rd party opinion to understand whether need to go back into it and change the torque. cheers
  2. Thanks everyone - tomorrow I will do the job - fingers crossed. Besides greasing the fork, anywhere else that I should apply some grease ? I just found out that is best to apply Hylomar sealant to mating faces of bell housing and flywheel housing...whilst I am doing the job, anywhere else I should use it ?
  3. jeez - I'd pass then as would mess the hole thing up since the tools/expertise available here are limited! so question 2 is closed - can anyone help on the other three ? 1) to what NM should I close the flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts whilst doing this job? 2) how to resurface the flywheel? 3) shall i change the 6x bolts (SX108201L) M8 X 20MM and washers (WL108002) M8, sprung ? 4) Anything else whilst at it?
  4. sure, happy to do it, how do I go about it - any guidelines ? I'm in Ghana so high-tech mechanic not anywhere around
  5. @Red90 suggested it - would love to know what I need to do as I am getting to it shortly...
  6. Hey guys, Got myself the LOF clutch kit that seems great! Going to work on it over the weekend, need someone to shed light on some questions: 1) to what NM should I close the flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts whilst doing this job? 2) how to resurface the flywheel? 3) shall i change the 6x bolts (SX108201L) M8 X 20MM and washers (WL108002) M8, sprung ? 4) Anything else whilst at it?
  7. thanks @steve b -since I am changing the whole hose, so to be on the safe side, the 8mm would be suitable for both legs (one going from #5 to engine and one from engine to #3), right? or one needs to be a 10mm?
  8. Hey, I found this one close to home (link) - 8mm internal diameter, 15mm extenal diameter, max pressure 10 bar - sounds good? otherwise what specs should i look for? cheers
  9. Guys sorry for opening this up again but have similar question. On my 1994 200TDI disco engine with Lt33 gearbox (fitted on my ex-3.5L Defender) as I am to work on the clutch i want to change master cylinder and slave one. I see a lot of different versions and going through various threads many alternatives are suggested, based on what I should decide what to pick? slave: TKC2786L FTC2498 FTC5072 FTC5202 master: 550732 STC100410 STC100411 Thanks a lot!
  10. ah, ok @steve b this gets interesting! and since I am a beginner here, things when cutting/extending/etc and are likely to get messy To avoid that, worthwhile then changing the full fuel hose going into the engine and the one return one? the existing hoses are anyway 25 years old beaten by the African weather + originally for petrol and now on diesel, so I guess a refresh wouldn't be bad? In this case I would not need to any any modification at all to nothing right? I get AMR1495, attach it to #5 with the new hose running along the chassis all the way up to the engine, and then to the lift pump on the engine from there to fuel filter to injector pump. Then attach to the injector pump the new hose of the back flow that I'd connect to stub #3 of the new tank tightening with some 8mm wormdrive clips. does the above sound right or am I missing something? What would be the size needed by these 2 new hoses? are both 8amm or the one from #5 to engine is a 10mm and the return one is a 8mm? thanks a lot!!!!
  11. great, so If I understand correctly I should be able to fit the existing standard male pipe from the structure I had going into hole #4 and divert it into stub #3 and then tighten it with some 8mm wormdrive clips only? The flow would then work like this - from the AMR1495 the fuel goes along the chassis to the lift pump on the engine from there to fuel filter to injector pump. On the other side of the injector pump is the back flow. This goes back along the chassis and connects to #3 of new tank as described above? No need of making any changes to these fuel lines right? So I just to get myself a AMR1495 and ship it down to Ghana unless I am missing something.. @steve b does it all sound right? If there is no guide on the forum, shall I put one together for anyone else that falls into this conversion? For beginners like me, info like this is extremely useful
  12. The truck is 1995 and was a 3.5 V8, but has a 1994 Disco 200TDI engine now (engine no 12L77414A) despite most of its components still being the original petrol ones....hence I'd go for AMR1495 which is for from mid 1992 onwards (from VIN no JA915358)... any way to check it'd fit on the tank I got (the NRC9515) would this be sufficient or need to buy anything else to be able to do the conversion from the existing set-up (which was meant to be for a petrol tank)? I will check also the gauges whilst at it - a good excuse to freshen them up with the new raptor dashboard I got... I will then use the pipe stub #3 for the return line connection 🙂 great stuff! do I need to buy anything or just change the existing set-up? If the latter, any tip on what has to be done? the mechanic here are very creative but need some guidance to avoid getting too creative 😛 thanks a lot @steve b !!
  13. Oh @steve b, you're making my day! I guess the correct part number is AMR1495 the correct part no (link) which has both sender and with a fuel pick up pipe ? There is also PRC8463 but seems to be for older versions (<1992) I've been trying to find it on the manual (link) but all the ones I can find have hole 4... thanks a lot!!
  14. 2 years down the line and the only progress made has been to paint the new tank with Raptor - jeez! I haven't been to Ghana lately because of work commitments but in my last visit I wanted to perform the change but guess what?? something is wrong The fuel tank I bought is unfortunately not the same as the one originally fitted - the original one has a hole at the top (number 4), for the fuel return line pipe, which the tank I bought and got shipped to ghana does NOT have (@#%$). The other holes (1,2,3 & 5) are also in my new one. So the big question is: is there a mod kit that will allow me to use the existing hole of the new tank (guess hole 5 or 3) to replace hole 4? In hole 5 at the moment there is the fuel sender as per picture - so may be there is a kit that does the functions of sender and fuel return line pipe or I can do something with hole 3? I really do not want to cut out the center piece to create hole 4.... the tank with hole 4 is for the petrol engine (it originally fitted a v3.5L v8) - the 200TDI tank doesn't have that hole. Since it now fits that engine I would have thought that I won't need to keep using hole 4 but adapt my set-up to fit the diesel one using either hole 5 or hole 3 - any hope? Thanks so much!!!
  15. ah ok, I thought it I could resurface it in-situ, without taking the whole thing out - thanks! I guess that with the Gearbox input shaft front seal and the crankshaft seal I am done - or are there other seals, shims, etc.. that needs to be replaced whilst I am at it? Cheers
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