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Wheely

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Everything posted by Wheely

  1. Hey guys, started to change the clutch over the weekend - good fun doing it, and Ghanaians always create a tool whenever they don't have what's needed - however I have a question for you: there were 3 main bolts involved in the change (1-2-3 in the pics attached). I looked on the 200 TDI workshop manual (1993 edition - link here). From it I understand that 1 is the housing flywheel to cylinder block (NM 45), 2 is the flywheel to crankshaft (NM 147) and 3 is the clutch cover plate to flywheel (NM 34). The person who sold to me the clutch kit told me that 2 had to be done at 40NM and 3 at 28NM. So I am confused as to why the torque would be so different, especially for 2. Can you clarify what I am missing out? I also asked him but would love a 3rd party opinion to understand whether need to go back into it and change the torque. cheers
  2. Thanks everyone - tomorrow I will do the job - fingers crossed. Besides greasing the fork, anywhere else that I should apply some grease ? I just found out that is best to apply Hylomar sealant to mating faces of bell housing and flywheel housing...whilst I am doing the job, anywhere else I should use it ?
  3. jeez - I'd pass then as would mess the hole thing up since the tools/expertise available here are limited! so question 2 is closed - can anyone help on the other three ? 1) to what NM should I close the flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts whilst doing this job? 2) how to resurface the flywheel? 3) shall i change the 6x bolts (SX108201L) M8 X 20MM and washers (WL108002) M8, sprung ? 4) Anything else whilst at it?
  4. sure, happy to do it, how do I go about it - any guidelines ? I'm in Ghana so high-tech mechanic not anywhere around
  5. @Red90 suggested it - would love to know what I need to do as I am getting to it shortly...
  6. Hey guys, Got myself the LOF clutch kit that seems great! Going to work on it over the weekend, need someone to shed light on some questions: 1) to what NM should I close the flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts whilst doing this job? 2) how to resurface the flywheel? 3) shall i change the 6x bolts (SX108201L) M8 X 20MM and washers (WL108002) M8, sprung ? 4) Anything else whilst at it?
  7. thanks @steve b -since I am changing the whole hose, so to be on the safe side, the 8mm would be suitable for both legs (one going from #5 to engine and one from engine to #3), right? or one needs to be a 10mm?
  8. Hey, I found this one close to home (link) - 8mm internal diameter, 15mm extenal diameter, max pressure 10 bar - sounds good? otherwise what specs should i look for? cheers
  9. Guys sorry for opening this up again but have similar question. On my 1994 200TDI disco engine with Lt33 gearbox (fitted on my ex-3.5L Defender) as I am to work on the clutch i want to change master cylinder and slave one. I see a lot of different versions and going through various threads many alternatives are suggested, based on what I should decide what to pick? slave: TKC2786L FTC2498 FTC5072 FTC5202 master: 550732 STC100410 STC100411 Thanks a lot!
  10. ah, ok @steve b this gets interesting! and since I am a beginner here, things when cutting/extending/etc and are likely to get messy To avoid that, worthwhile then changing the full fuel hose going into the engine and the one return one? the existing hoses are anyway 25 years old beaten by the African weather + originally for petrol and now on diesel, so I guess a refresh wouldn't be bad? In this case I would not need to any any modification at all to nothing right? I get AMR1495, attach it to #5 with the new hose running along the chassis all the way up to the engine, and then to the lift pump on the engine from there to fuel filter to injector pump. Then attach to the injector pump the new hose of the back flow that I'd connect to stub #3 of the new tank tightening with some 8mm wormdrive clips. does the above sound right or am I missing something? What would be the size needed by these 2 new hoses? are both 8amm or the one from #5 to engine is a 10mm and the return one is a 8mm? thanks a lot!!!!
  11. great, so If I understand correctly I should be able to fit the existing standard male pipe from the structure I had going into hole #4 and divert it into stub #3 and then tighten it with some 8mm wormdrive clips only? The flow would then work like this - from the AMR1495 the fuel goes along the chassis to the lift pump on the engine from there to fuel filter to injector pump. On the other side of the injector pump is the back flow. This goes back along the chassis and connects to #3 of new tank as described above? No need of making any changes to these fuel lines right? So I just to get myself a AMR1495 and ship it down to Ghana unless I am missing something.. @steve b does it all sound right? If there is no guide on the forum, shall I put one together for anyone else that falls into this conversion? For beginners like me, info like this is extremely useful
  12. The truck is 1995 and was a 3.5 V8, but has a 1994 Disco 200TDI engine now (engine no 12L77414A) despite most of its components still being the original petrol ones....hence I'd go for AMR1495 which is for from mid 1992 onwards (from VIN no JA915358)... any way to check it'd fit on the tank I got (the NRC9515) would this be sufficient or need to buy anything else to be able to do the conversion from the existing set-up (which was meant to be for a petrol tank)? I will check also the gauges whilst at it - a good excuse to freshen them up with the new raptor dashboard I got... I will then use the pipe stub #3 for the return line connection 🙂 great stuff! do I need to buy anything or just change the existing set-up? If the latter, any tip on what has to be done? the mechanic here are very creative but need some guidance to avoid getting too creative 😛 thanks a lot @steve b !!
  13. Oh @steve b, you're making my day! I guess the correct part number is AMR1495 the correct part no (link) which has both sender and with a fuel pick up pipe ? There is also PRC8463 but seems to be for older versions (<1992) I've been trying to find it on the manual (link) but all the ones I can find have hole 4... thanks a lot!!
  14. 2 years down the line and the only progress made has been to paint the new tank with Raptor - jeez! I haven't been to Ghana lately because of work commitments but in my last visit I wanted to perform the change but guess what?? something is wrong The fuel tank I bought is unfortunately not the same as the one originally fitted - the original one has a hole at the top (number 4), for the fuel return line pipe, which the tank I bought and got shipped to ghana does NOT have (@#%$). The other holes (1,2,3 & 5) are also in my new one. So the big question is: is there a mod kit that will allow me to use the existing hole of the new tank (guess hole 5 or 3) to replace hole 4? In hole 5 at the moment there is the fuel sender as per picture - so may be there is a kit that does the functions of sender and fuel return line pipe or I can do something with hole 3? I really do not want to cut out the center piece to create hole 4.... the tank with hole 4 is for the petrol engine (it originally fitted a v3.5L v8) - the 200TDI tank doesn't have that hole. Since it now fits that engine I would have thought that I won't need to keep using hole 4 but adapt my set-up to fit the diesel one using either hole 5 or hole 3 - any hope? Thanks so much!!!
  15. ah ok, I thought it I could resurface it in-situ, without taking the whole thing out - thanks! I guess that with the Gearbox input shaft front seal and the crankshaft seal I am done - or are there other seals, shims, etc.. that needs to be replaced whilst I am at it? Cheers
  16. great, thanks a lot - is this advisable to change it as well whilst I am doing the whole clutch? I see it's behind the flywheel engine which I wasn't planning to take out. Is it a seal that also fails often?
  17. I found answers to all the questions -the only one pending is: 3) I can't find a 200TDI alternative for the crank rear oil seal which for the 300 TDI is page 213, item 15 - is there another piece that should be changed if not this one? can you help please so i can place the order? thanks!
  18. Very useful thread - got some inspiring actions from it since I also wanted to change the clutch fork and the bearing with HD ones since they are likely to fail and I wouldn't want that to be the case whilst I am driving in the middle of nowhere in Mali 😅 I guess that whilst I am at it I'd change the other various components of the clutch as Neil did. Since I have the 200 TDI/LT77 I'd post here a couple of questions on the 'in-doubt' items: 1) This video (link) is extremely useful to understand how to replace effectively the spigot bush - is it needed to take it out as in the video or it can be done in-situ? Looking at retroanaconda the part number for 200 TDI is 8566L. Is this the same irrespective if it's a Disco or Defender 200 TDI I'd assume?? 2) Gearbox input shaft front seal page 310,item 2 which in the LT77 is UKC1060L - is this the only piece of the mainshaft to be swapped as part of this clutch refresh exercise? 3) I can't find a 200TDI alternative for the crank rear oil seal which for the 300 TDI is page 213, item 15 - is there another piece that should be changed if not this one? And lastly: 4) what tools shall I buy to do this piece of work besides the usual spanners, etc.. ? Is an clutch alignment tool (DA6113) actually needed or it can be sorted without it? 5) Anyone has the manual of a LT77 that says what grease to use on on the various parts of the clutch fork/etc... I hear (here) that each gearbox will be having its specific grease to be used.. 6) What is the benefit of STC8358HD over the standard one? many thanks!
  19. thanks guys, much appreciate all of your inputs and suggestions, so: I see the point of proactively changing the clutch arms with uprated ones since this part fails easily and I don't know how many miles the 200TDI I have fitted has. Few questions 1) How easy of a job that is without having very sophisticated tools? I'd do it with the mechanic here in Ghana but we just have spanners with us no other special stuff (Torque wrench, etc...) [ yeah need to buy myself a some proper stuff asap]. Looking at this video (link) it looks like we gotta dismantle all the bell housing 2) would ftc2957 be the right one (link) [ the gearbox I have is the 200 TDI Disco that has the diff lock lever in front of the gear stick lever, and the reverse is next to the 1st gear) 3) I have seen this video (link) as an upgrade to prevent in the future having the split where the pivot presses (link) - worth it for GBP45 or just a normal HD one would last enough miles? Bearing alu part no is FTC5200 (link), right? Anything else to change on the clutch? bearing in mind that so far (fingers crossed) no problems have been encountered with it Having said that the liquid in the clutch master cylinder is always dirty (despite changing it/bleeding it/etc..) so likely the seals are gone (despite having no leaking on the footwell whatsoever) - would you recommend replacing just the seal or the whole master cylinder? and if the latter was the case, should I do at the same time the slave cylinder as I have read somewhere that they should be replaced at the same time? would they be of the 200TDI (fitted engine) or of the V8 (original engine)? thanks a lot!! Simone
  20. Thanks a lot for your suggestions 1) Yes I'd go ahead and change all oils/filters/grease it all up (wheel bearings greased, bushes/shocks not failing, alternator charge output sufficient, battery has life in it, UJs greased). The timing belt (1 belt inside and 1 of the two belts outside) and tensioner were changed couple of years ago but since then I'd have done less than 2000 miles. Unfortunately the kit I had bought was the one for the 200TDI (TIMINGKIT200DEF) and so the front-cover gasket and water pump gasket wasn't correct and there wasn't the idler (ETC8560) since my engine it's rather a Disco one (VIN:12L77414A). What would you recommend me doing having done so little miles since then but not having changed all of the components ? What does the clutch aluminium release bearings and uprated clutch arms do to change them as a precaution? something like this (link)? Do you think I should change the radiator pipes to give it another layer of security? 2) I see your point there on the mismatched senders/gauges - indeed they may work but signal something not adequate for the engine - swapping the VDO water temperature then and adding one for the oil pressure so to avoid relying on the idiot light? cheers!
  21. Thanks all for your comments! much appreciated! I see you all make reference to having the engine in good order and so far, in the couple of years I have had it, it has been running fine - sparking at first attempt even after 3-4 months of no usage. My slight worry is that 1) I dunno how many miles the engine has run before it had been swapped as it has been bought here in Ghana by the previous owner and there was no record of that so may be it's going to be more likely for something to break if it had a lot of miles 2) since originally the Landy was fitted with a petrol engine and now it has the diesel one, is there a chance that some of the original gauges/senders/terminals won't work as expected or if that was the case I'd have noticed it already by now ? sorry for the stupid questions but you are a great sounding board!
  22. Hey guys, I work for a company providing solar home system on credit to rural people across west africa - currently are evaluating our next market so I am jumping at this opportunity to get my Landy on the road 😋! I will be crossing from Ghana to a few of the other countries around west africa (skipping the war zones of Burkina and Mali), finishing the trip in Senegal - about 4000km. Now need to get going with the prep.🙃 The first thing I wanted to check with you guys is whether the standard water temperature gauge (is water temp the same as coolant temp???) and the warning oil pressure idiot light are sufficient/reliable or should get myself an EMS kit like the Madman one which would give me: 1- Oil pressure 2- Oil/transfer case temperature 3 - Coolant temp 4 - Coolant level 5 - EGT --> which I wouldn't fit as the 200TDI doesn't have the EGR plate and I am not comfortable in drilling the manifold here in GH 6 - Battery voltage Everyone I asked is telling me to go with the EMS2 by Madman, I trust this being an ideal solution, my question is not whether that's a good piece of kit or not, but rather whether it's something I'd need or the standard set-up would be sufficient since point 5 is not fitted, point 6 is not going to make a world of difference, 1 and 3 should be sorted with the standard set-up, so the only real benefit I see (provided that indeed 1 and 3 are reliable from the standard set-up) is on point 2 (not very useful as the oil temp should always be around 5 degrees above the coolant temp) and 4 --> would this justify getting such a piece of kit worth about 300 quids? Mind that my Landy is standard (no mechanical mods/upgrades ) though it has a 200 TDI despite it being a 3 axle Defender (the previous owner changed the 3.5 V8😒) so I'd think that it'd be a bit heavy to pull for this smaller engine - but I am no mechanic🤔 Thanks so much for all your guys feedback, Simone
  23. got confirmation of question 2 by doing some research online: The 200TDI kit that I found comes with the H360PKIT which is not part of the kit madman offers (above picture) - is it an extra component provided as part of the kit for what particular reason you guys think? Question 1 and 3 still stand
  24. Thanks @Maverik for the feedback - appreciated as I am new to all these kind of things but learning fast thanks to this forum! 3 questions: 1) I found this picture showcasing where I'd need to drill in - is it correct? How easy is to do this and what can possibly go wrong (it's the first time I'd do something like this and in Ghana there is no workshop equipped for this kind of work). 2) Are these the necessary probes/etc needed or is there more for the 200 TDI: 3) Lastly I understand these are some things that are needed that don't come with the kit - is this comprehensive? * 2 x gaskets for the water temp sensor * 3 x 40mm bolts to fit water temp sensor mounting (the original bolts are way too short.) * Antifreeze * Loctite --> what type? is this normal glue or what? * Fire Gum --> what is this? * Lugs --> what is this? * Sleeving for the wiring * Cable ties I am asking all of this a I need to purchase this stuff and have it shipped to Ghana so it'd be a shame if I miss something and need to ship a second batch of stuff. Thanks a lot
  25. Thanks guys for the feedback! The EMS3 is since last year that should be released so I wouldn't bet is coming out in march as they say on FB. And anyway - the delays were led by many bugs and tweaks they had to do before releasing so I'd think that may be the first release will still not be at par with the previous EMS? Quick Q's for you: 1- What's the difference between EMS1 and EMS2? Seems to have the same function to me when i compare on the madman website 2- How would I fit the EGT probe into a disco 200TDI engine which doens't have the EGR? 3- What are the things I should buy when installing this? i.e. what doesn't come in the box which is needed to do the installation? thanks a lot, Simone
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