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Getting Comfortable
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    Northland, New Zealand
  1. I guess I was just surprised at the manufacturing tolerances. The difference between a 1 & zero hole appears to be .39mm which in old money is about 15thou - seems pretty relaxed & I wonder what BMW, Merc, Toyota etc work to and whether the same applies to modern J/LR engines
  2. Turbo upgrade

    Many thanks!
  3. Turbo upgrade

    May be (probably) a dumb question but the ad says 200tdi, is this the same for the 300? If so, will pick one up next time I’m in UK
  4. Indicator problem help please

    Had exactly this problem on my 300tdi and in the end fitted two tiny green LEDs between and just above the gauges to replace the standard dash lamp. I did look at changing to the TD5 cluster but then I saw the price my fix cost about two bucks from AliExpress
  5. That could make sense if the “standard” gasket was 1 hole - then you’d have the opportunity to skim the block 3 times (not sure why you would though) however; my block definitely hasn’t ever been skimmed yet it has a 2 hole gasket . . . .
  6. OK so I understand 1, 2, 3 & no hole gaskets relate to accommodating piston protrusion from the block but can anyone enlighten me as to WHY Land Rover felt it necessary to make engines of differing dimensions? When I look back to my 1970’s basic apprentice training hand filing chunks of steel into true cubes I find it hard to believe that 90s technology couldn’t precisely engineer a standard block or piston. Am I missing something here?
  7. Isuzu 4JJ1 swap for 300tdi?

    Thanks for all the feedback and info. In the end I elected to pass on the Isuzu engine and as when I got the head off the bores etc all looked good, have sourced a new head, gaskets, bolts, core plugs, water pump, thermostat and expansion tank/cap to rebuild the original engine. I’m also taking this opportunity to change the cam belt and the radiator is away being checked & cleaned at the moment. Hopefully she’ll be back together next weekend. The head itself had cracks between the valves on 1 & 2 and to the injector on 2 and there is evidence of some gasket leakage between 2 & 3. Getting the injectors and glow plugs out was proving to be a mission so they’re on order now and I also found most of the core plugs were weeping in both the head & block. Pity really, I reckon she’d have been an even more awesome truck with that 4JJ1 in her but in the end practicality and to some extent originality won out.
  8. Isuzu 4JJ1 swap for 300tdi?

    The 4JJ1 Dmax is indeed a common rail engine so this mightn’t be readily achievable. The last thing I want is to introduce any electrickery to the car. Hopefully I’ll get the verdict on the 300 Motor later today - certainly the quickest and most straightforward fix!
  9. Isuzu 4JJ1 swap for 300tdi?

    Good point but she was built to NZ spec and as far as I am aware the only real change was to fit a km speedo
  10. Discovery Seats in Defender

    I had Disco seats for a while but although comfortable on the posterior found them too high and I felt a bit hunched up under the wheel. When I made the subframes I fabricated hinges into the rear mounts and used M8 bolts with plastic handles (from some old roof bars) on the front passenger side so quite a quick job to access the battery by tipping the seat back. I also fitted a couple of short cables to an Anderson plug on the seat box to make for easy charging. I still use the subframes but moved to a pair of Autotecnica bucket seats some time ago. These are super comfortable and really hold you in but there’s a quick learning curve to getting in and out over the side bolsters without damage to the “jewels”!
  11. Isuzu 4JJ1 swap for 300tdi?

    I’ve owned the vehicle from new. I bought it for export in UK, used it there for 11 months for visits and shipped it to the Middle East and on to NZ. It has now traveled about 210k km, none of it really very hard working. The head gasket first went at around 100k and the head had to be skimmed for refitting now it’s gone again but this time was pretty dramatic. Temperature rose VERY suddenly rose going up a fairly long, winding hill with a light dinghy trailer on the back and she blew coolant before the temperature dropped quickly back to normal and remained there. To all intents it appeared to be an airlock that had sorted itself but just before I reached a service station the engine cut. I was able to pull off and open the bonnet/hood and she started again but shortly after there was a pressure discharge from the oil filler cap and she died again. The speed with which the temperature came up makes me wonder if the water pump hasn’t packed a sad and just cresting the hill and cruising down with the kenlow going full chat was why it dropped off so quickly. I’ve had her delivered to a mate who specialises in building rally cars and re-engining Hilux with supercharged 4l Lexus motors which involves tailoring bellhousings but I’m waiting to hear whether he’s happy to rebuild the 300tdi or we go with an alternative. I believe the Aussie Perentee was built using the Isuzu 2.8 drivetrain and that this 4JJ1 is a derivative of that but was just wondering if anyone had any experience with it. If I do go that I will post back with the outcomes. Happy New Year!
  12. Sadly the head has gone on my 97CSW (again!) and I’m left with the option of reusing that motor with a new head, water pump etc or to swap out for a Dmax 3.0T 4JJ1 with just 35k km. I appreciate this option means stripping the “new” engine of all the computer parafanalia and going mechanical but just wondering if anyone has or knows of someone who has done this swap? I’ve always been in favour of keeping the old girl as original as possible but having to change head gaskets more often than cam belts is a pain and I have to admit, a 35-odd% increase in power is quite appealing so any constructive advice would be appreciated please.
  13. Warn Winch Wiring Question

    Many thanks John
  14. I recently decided to refurbish the Warn XD9000i winch on my 97 110 CSW and discovered it was cheaper to buy a new replacement motor from eBay than to get the original overhauled. Unlike the original however, the new unit has two light gauge brown wires with bare ends which when I asked the supplier about, I was told connect to the thermal overload but if I didn't have one to just ignore them . . . . . So, as I assume these wires would normally have a circuit breaker across them, should I just splice them with a butt connector or should they be left disconnected but the bare ends insulated and sealed? I'm hopeless when it comes to electrickery and don't want to short anything out - especially since the car was delivered with the winch wired direct to battery! Thanks in advance, Alan
  15. Loss of power and black smoke

    I had a similar problem with the intercooler hose collapsing under load and starving the turbo of air. I replaced it with a silicone one and no issues since.