L90-v8

first four sell those type off the shelf without the needing any mods

the 3.9 14cux requires a speed sensor to adjust the fueling I got round this using the older inline type set up from a rrc efi the sensor is prc5956 I used rrc 3.5 speedo cables the short one is prc7949 long one prc8232 i modified one end to fit the defender dash you can fit a original defender speedo cable and not connect the speed sensor it will run fine but the difference it made really surprised me runs a lot better

in 2017 deutz engines still have the choice of 1-3 hole multi layer head gaskets its not just lr doing it

£70 a lamp that's expensive you can pick up land rover 7" for about £15 a side I brought a set of clear wipac ones for my escort for £35 for the pair I have a pair of those led ones on the defender paid £100 for the pair they work fine not as much depth as a good quality halogens or hids but still a good lamp better than the old sealed beam units

I'm also using that thermostat conversion kit also the stat housing I'm using is from 3.9 I suppose I could use the squirt to control the fan an pop my dash temp sensor in the stat housing but would it not give a duff reading tho in the stat housing when the stats shut would it read cooler than what it really was where as if it was in the manifold it would read a more true temp on the large diesels I work on the temp sensors are normally located in the head furthest away from the water pump like a tdi

I'm going to be putting a 4.6 thor into my 90 hopefully some time soon my current setup is a 3.9 serp 14cux system on a 3.5 efi lump I have one of niges coolant temp sensors for the megasquirt that parts sorted but I need to fit the temp sensor in the manifold for the dash gauge where has other people fitted this sensor my current setup has two ports for the heater I just removed the blanking plug an popped it in there but the thor only has one port and no blanked spare port the manifold is quite thin in places around the stat area so drilling and tapping could be tricky I think my best option would be tig a boss onto the manifold unless theres another option

I had modulars on before with the same tyres the challengers I got have more off set so I was able to get some decent steering lock back

not sure of the lift the springs are rrc red and whites but the rims are challenger and the tyres are 285/75 /16 km2

I agree 100% with the above the head is not great its knackered imo and if it was mine I would rectify the problem by sourcing another head or welding the crack but a friend of mine come over with a blown head gasket on 300tdi 4 months ago and wanted me to do the head gasket we pulled it apart it had 3 cylinders cracked between the valves and every cylinder was cracked around the glow plug it was warped to the point you could see clear daylight between number 2-3 using a straight edge he asked me what should he do with it I said the heads knackered find another head an fit a good one job done but he couldn't do that at the time as he needed to get to work the following day so we bolted it back together with a new gasket and its still going now 4 months later it don't over heat don't use a drop of oil or water runs perfect I cant believe it myself that it still runs with no issues I'm sure its ready to let go at any point he has now has sourced another good head for a sensible price so when we have a chance will get it sorted its not what I recommend and its not what I would personally do to my own vehicle but it shows you how forgiving a tdi is

I'm sure my old centre seat was fixed the frame was a one piece bottom and back that bolted directly to the seat box the threaded holes should already be there under the black round bungs at the front of the seat box cant remember how it bolted at the back I think it was nut and bolt not 100% sure the only other thing you need is the seat belt that's seperate an they bolt next to the driver an passenger seat belt buckles

forums facebook and e bay I find the mags to be on the pricey side theres a 2008 tdci for £9995 113,700 miles white 90 on e bay

by 2003 they moved on from the 10-14p engines to the 15p its basically the same engine with the revised head without the extra fuel return drilling that commonly cracked also had different injectors and fuel regulator not sure about the bottom end the very early td5 were a bit unresponsive the power was there but they felt like they needed winding up to get going not sure when this got sorted by land rover having driven a standard 2004 15p its a totally different machine tune wise to the early one from the late 90's the later ones are a joy to drive

if your mainly using it on road I would go for a td5 with remap 15p lump the tdi is a great bit of kit but a remapped td5 imo is far better more power more torque an a lot smoother than a tdi an sound better than a 4 pot ive had na dervs tdi's td5 an v8's the td5 is the best derv out the bunch ive never had a tdci defender but had a couple of transits there also a grunty lump but don't seem to last theres a lot of info on the net for the newer models and with code readers readily available don't be worried that there hard to work on bodys rot everywhere where steel meets ali check the bottoms of the doors seat belt mounts footwells tub cappings seat boxes battery tray chassis rot from front to back mainly outriggers and rear x member an behind where the front x member is an the rear chassis where the a frame bolts on as above take someone with you who knows landrovers don't wear rose tinted glasses your budget will get you a good truck if you don't rush into it you will find exactly what you want

great pics they got some good looking motors over there

my defender manual says 135 psi min not sure if that's for a 8.13cr or 9.35cr