L90-v8

just noticed your got thor rocker covers the jems filler cap is n/s the thor is o/s

this is a 3.9 serp mount part no err4514

this is a gems mount you might have a thor alternator mount

as long as the sensor has the correct temperature settings on and off it don't matter where you put it I personally prefer the top but that's my preference

my sensor is in stat elbow an works perfectly fine it will get up to temperature without the fans coming on early an certainly don't keep going an flattening my battery it cuts in an out as necessary in traffic I guess its each to there own where you put it I have put the sensor in the top for years an will carry on doing it this way as I have never had a issue most of the standard factory cars ive had have also been installed this way until they started controlling the fan via the ecu

I understand if the rads not upto the job its never going to keep cool ive only ever come across an used top hose fan switches if the x eng switch is designed as a bottom hose switch an comes on at a lower temp all should be good but if you fit a higher temp switch from say a fiesta an put that in the bottom hose its gonna cook I would have thought a switch set to 88 should be in the top from what I read his fan is not coming on till past 100 deg that indicates to me the switch is either faulty or set incorrectly or not designed to be in the bottom hose or the temperature gauge is not reading correctly

ahh soz I get what you mean theres a pipe blanked off on the inlet manifold i should have read correctly I think mine is piped up from the inlet manifold to the top o/s/f corner of the rad

fitting the fan temp sensor in the bottom cold hose is madness every vehicle I know of has the sensor in the top of the rad or in the stat housing

fitting a lower degree stat wont change the capacity of a cooling system at all but fitting a cooler stat it will open sooner reducing the temperature the hoter stats are designed to keep the temps up reducing emmisions

absolutely agree

also you don't need to modify the rad you can use the overflow pipe by the rad cap an put it into a expansion bottle/ expansion tank when the coolants hot it will expand into the bottle via the rad cap when the coolant cools down the coolant will go back into the radiator keeping the radiator full at all times

your switch for the electric fan needs to be in the top hose or in the top of the manifold because the bottom hose is cold and the top hose is hot also you can fit a 82 degree stat that will help keep her cool

get a pic of the front end of the engine theres so many different serp front ends you never know if someones changed it from original

i have them fitted on the disco an not fitted on the 90 had no issues either way both are used on and off road

2017 plans were to finish the v8 conversion get the 90 on the road make it all one colour and enjoy it it all started well mot'd early jan sorted out some teething troubles pas not working and suspension ridiculously stiff it now handles an drives like a dream just paint to sort I thought after a long laning trip I decided 3.5 wasn't enough and the lucas dizzy was letting me down so a 4.6 on megasquirt is on the 2017 to do list

theres another option keep your na diesel transfer/gearbox mounts keep the original props the original floor pan and original seat box bolt the box in an weld the tdi engine mounts to suit its probably not the right way to do it but I did the v8 conversion that way an got away with it all my electrics an hoses reached and I even had enough room to fit a genuine round type air filter behind the engine

in theory if you fit 300 tdi props and use 300 tdi transferbox/gearbox mounts the engine should be in the correct place if you go on Richards chassis website an click defender I'm sure there is pics of all the different types of mounts and where they are if you know someone with a late defender genuine workshop manual there should be chassis measurements in there

ive never done it myself but it should fit as 300 tdi and td5 defenders used r380 gearboxs and they had a long bell housings like a discovery the 200 disco conversion is a bit more involved as the disco an defender use different parts its still a straight forward job if something don't fit get the welder out

why don't you remove the rear 3 bolt diff an fit a 4bolt diff they are easy to get hold of and fit a set of defender 300 tdi props

my 1999 disco is on a classic policy

now you mention it I think I saw that too

thanks for all the input so far I'm leaning towards a ms2 if the 8 will run just that little sweeter I don't mind a little bit more agro/effort if the results are better will the ms2 run a 3 pin bosch thor type idle control nige your input is welcome as I will be purchasing all this from you anyway it was your website that brought me here an join to find out the info I need im a complete efi novice any input is helpful feel free to pm me with any suggestions even if its your opinion I'm willing to listen I will be making a call to you soon once I get my head round what I want

I think there must be a cable missing to connect the magic eye to the ignition amp my amp was bolted directly to the side of the dizzy body with a tiny plug connecting it up plug my disco has a large waterproof plug on the side of the dizzy an the amp is located on the front panel with a loom joining the two together neither of my dizzys have that type of plug are the insides original? the ignition amp wires go to the coil I think ones white and the other is white and black

that's really hard to keep off the loud pedal when the eight sounds so nice