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Beardy Face

Getting Comfortable
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  1. And the pro hydrogen brigade ignore the fact production is no more efficient than battery charging.. and uses just as much electricity, it still just exports the pollution to power plants. Tends to go bang in accidents too. Only advantages are faster refueling and more on-vehicle energy density. You don't get anything for nothing, basic physics.
  2. I did consider it, but any leaf sprung axle I got hold of would be 34 years old or older by definition, with all the implied wear and tear.. if whatever I bought proved noisy, or worn out, they're more expensive and more difficult to sort than Rover axles. Used bits are somewhat of a lottery. I don't know how what I've gone for compares with a Sailsbury for ultimate strength, but with a pegged case, new C&P, refurb KAM 24 spline LSD, and Ashcroft 1/2 shafts, it should be way stronger than original. Without taking chances on worn bearings, worn gears, etc. etc. that I'd by definition be taking with anything used. Just didn't want to take the chance that some random auction site Sailsbury that's already done unknown but likely high mileage would be presenting me with a rebuild to pay for later when I maybe couldn't finance it. Swapping a diff and half-shafts in the street as I'm constrained to do is one thing, swapping an entire axle is another, which would likely see busybodies calling the council to moan. I've seen such happen to others who've done middle size jobs with cars on axle stands out there in recent times. I miss the days when half the population including myself used to be doing their own servicing, swapping head gaskets, engines, gearboxes, and welding chunks in floors out there. But the world has changed, and not for the better.
  3. After MUCH bugging of Nige via email, we've come to an agreement on what I think is the best way forward, will update after delivery and fitting, but I've found him most helpful and informative!
  4. The setup proposed for the front doors won't resist the leverage of the door against what's effectively a hasp and staple anyway, regardless of the issues regarding breaking down the door-top or simply breaking glass.. the proposed type of lock needs to bridge the opening edge of the door and the door post to resist entry.. not be fitted on the hinge edge. The suggestion of fitting deadlocks is absolutely superior, even though it's more work.
  5. Legally you need a vehicle over 3.5T if you're going to tow one over 23' (7m) excluding A frame, which is why the pikeys use big vans or small trucks. Check what you're planning to tow https://www.gov.uk/towing-with-car/weight-and-width-limits
  6. Worth looking into the fan too if it's anything other than a fixed blade belt driven type, viscous couplings have been known to stop engaging with age, and electric fans failing to cut in because of a failed temperature switch is the breakdown service's favourite summer call-out. With that type instrument "too hot" is when it reads significantly higher than usual wherever usual is, I'd stop and investigate if it ever went into the black. Vehicle temp gauges are not exactly precision instruments regardless if they're marked in degrees or coloured sectors, add in that the sender tends to have a tolerance of +/- 10% at manufacture and drift as they age. Even the best senders are only +/- 5% then the instrument voltage regulators also vary. The result is a situation where it's blind luck if two vehicles read the same at the same actual temp.
  7. If it's far enough out, or moved since you guesstimated the setting yes. You don't have to twist the dizzy far on a V8 to change the setting pretty massively.
  8. Caveat: I don't know Freelanders, and my mechanic experience was some years back on older vehicles. It seems likely that HG is what any garage is likely to conclude, there aren't many ways on a typical vehicle for oil or combustion products to get into the coolant and cause that, and most of the others are even more expensive (cracks in head or engine block, or some other engine designs a cylinder liner moved) "stung" is when they say it's one of those... which they won't know without taking the head off which means a new gasket anyway. We used to hold the probe from the exhaust gas analyzer in the coolant filler with the engine running, a high HC reading would be positive confirmation of HG or one of the other nastier failures (unlikely, unless someone ran it with plain water instead of anti-freeze or it overheated massively). I believe there are chemical tests some places use now, which also work. something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-VAN-MOTOR-COMBUSTION-LEAK-CO2-TESTER-KIT-HEAD-GASKET-TEST-BLOCK-Fluid-10ml/302160186385 which you could use yourself. Maybe someone who actually knows Freelanders will have some input, it's possible there could be some other cause I don't know about, I was a "general mechanic" (all makes) but never actually looked under the lid on a Freelander.
  9. That's my "go to" if penetrating oil and a sharp rap on the end doesn't free it.
  10. I may be miles off here, most vehicles have a narrow aperture just inside the filler through which the fueling nozzle fits, historically so you couldn't get the nozzle from a pump for leaded fuel into the filler for a car with a catalytic converter fitted. This will also stop displaced air and fumes rushing out directly past the nozzle, I'm wondering if this might be at the root of the issue. The displaced air/fumes mixture blowing back past the nozzle triggering the shutoff? Not sure how you'd test, or cure it when you also need to make filling from cans easy.
  11. X That had occurred to me too Sadly the front needs work too, some play in the pinion shaft and a slow leak, which doesn't fret me much on a front one as it's behind FWH & just sits, apart from the odd short spell to redistribute the oil, I think maybe a previous owner already swapped them. This is indeed an early one, Rover at both ends Yes, I wondered about that too after reading his posts on threads about diffs, looking at his site and watching some of the videos, from what I've gleaned from that he appears to avoid 2 pin 10 spline units though, and the imperial ones with the ally pinion seal retainer also appear to be the dearest to get sorted, not sure if I could afford pegging as well much as I'd like it, it ran dry on the A1M and consequently I suspect everything bar the case is f.... errr "copulated". Crown-wheel, pinion, and all bearings are for certain, it's out and I've looked. DIYing would be fun, I'd be less hesitant if it was going up front. I like Nige's work, but he's a longish way away, Ashcrofts are nearly on my doorstep, about 35 miles.
  12. I have a very dead rover diff from the rear of my IIA 109, owing to the fact it lost it's oil, the pinion bearings collapsed (bits of bearing cage in the oil) and the crownwheel and pinion are now toast. Is it worth getting it sorted? I'll probably be throwing a used unit from a well known auction site in at least temporarily, but my experience with used diffs so far is less than stellar, they tend to arrive with much wear and backlash if they're old enough to come out of a series axle. It'll be my third used diff, OK, spread over decades, it's not like I'm breaking them regularly, but even so. Parts appear to be available to rebuild it, the process looks tedious rather than difficult and it'd be nice to have one as a spare at least, though by the time I've replaced everything it needs and bought a DTI and setting block the recon ones from Craddock start to look viable. Maybe I'd be better finding a different one to rebuild? I can almost taste wanting one from Ashcrofts, trouble is if I go there I start wanting it pegged, with an ATB, and then have to add HD half shafts and flanges... and sadly it gets way too expensive
  13. Nothing wrong with twin leading shoe brake cylinders at 3 and 9 o'clock, classic Minis with 10" wheels and TLS drums did that up front, Morris Minors have shoes top and bottom both front and rear, as did many other old cars. To be fair, he's made brake adjustment more awkward, and his pipework looks vulnerable to damage if a spanner slips topping up the swivel oil, which I don't like. Especially since you need to do those more often than brake bleeding. Nothing inherently dangerous about the mod itself, he could have shaped the pipework better though. Your own revision is neater and easier.
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